Rotors are stuck to the hub

[moribundman]

Looks like the "pro" who worked on my brakes a few years ago didn't use anti-seize on the hubs. After spraying some liquid wrench around the hub/rotor, I started banging away on the rotors with a mallet until my head started hurting. I don't want to use the brutal method of losening the wheelbolts, driving a few feet, then braking hard to pry the rotors off. Any other option? Borrow a gorilla to help me pull?

 

[Fuelrod]

Year, Make and Model please...On some cars, the hub and rotor are a single chunk of steel..

On most FWD cars, they are not..but they might have small screws or bolts that hold them on..

 

[moribundman]

On an Audi A4 quattro the rotors are held against the hubs only by the wheel and wheel bolts. The rotors have simply rusted to the hubs. It's a common problem if no anti-seize is used on the hubs. I'm reluctant to use a sledge hammer...

 

[seotaji]

have you tried seafoam deep creep or pb blaster on the affected areas?

heat works well.

an application of a BFH would work, it would cause a lot more damage

i've used a lead mallet with great success.

 

[moribundman]

I used Liquid Wrench. After 6 hours it still showed no effect. My rubber mallet isn't very heavy, so I guess I'll try the BFH tomorrow.

 

[nel]

One thing you can try is to put the wheels back on with the lug nuts on finger tight. Then put the car in gear, and rock it between forward and reverse--braking before the car goes very far. The brake torque works to loosen the rotor from the hub. Good luck.

 

[JHZR2]

If I was in that situation, I would lower that side down, without the wheel on, and let it (the rotor) come to rest on a cinderblock. The weight on the rotor itself ought to help it release, particularly if you use some more liquid wrench, and rocked the car side to side while the weight of 1/4 of the car was on the rotor.

On second thought, do you have lug nuts or lug bolts? On my MB, BMW and Saab, the hub has holes in it (and the rotor ha holes through it) which the lug bolts thread into. So you couldnt do that.

But if the threaded bolts are part of the hub assembly, Id say give that a try.

JMH

 

[moribundman]

Yup, the Audi uses wheel bolts. I think it will be easier for me to get a bigger mallet than to find a cinder block.

 

[JDP]

I've found that the rotors or drums usually sieze around the wheel studs and the centering hub.

Some WD40 or similar product followed by a few well placed, solid hits from the ball end of a 3lb ball peen hammer between the wheel studs usually gets it started.

The ball concentrates the force enough to expand the drum/rotor center a little and releases the rust holding the flat part of the center. Once that part is free, the center will bounce a little and free the holes around the studs and the center of the hub. A little extra rust lube won't hurt about this time too.

Only one set of stuck drums in 30 years that haven't come off this way. On a feed lot pickup I wound up cutting them off with a torch.

JD

 

[Ironduke4]

I have a big 10inch 3 jaw puller i use to remove stuck drums or rotors i never use a hammer. The puller has never failed me

it pulls them right off rusted on or not.

 

[moribundman]

I like the suggestion of using a puller. Have to see if that's an option...

 

[mechtech]

Rubber mallet is the problem.
Use a real beating tool!

 

[T-Keith]

Try a little stronger penetrant like PB or JB-80. Also you may want to try taking it apart hot. Like after a few hard stops(with the lugnuts tight). Usually beating it harder is the only way.

-T

 

[Kestas]

A 'real' mallet may get the rotor off, but the peening action on the rotor induces residual stresses, warps it, and renders it junk.

 

[moribundman]

All good suggestions, but

A. The brake has been removed, so I'd have to put the old brake temporarily back in to break the rotors loose by driving and breaking with the wheel a little loose.

B. The old rotors are WORN, why else would I try to get them off? I don't care if they get warped.

C. Sorry for only having a rubber mallet. I'm usualy not in favor of beating the tar out of my car.

D. For the last time: my car doesn't have lugnuts.

 

[JDP]

It sure does make junk out of the rotor but if it has been on long enough to rust on that bad, it is junk anyway.

Never had problems much with rotors, mostly drums. Most cast rotors mount solid or are one piece with the hub and composite rotors are usually warped when they need service anyway.

JD

 

[JDP]

quote:

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Originally posted by moribundman:
All good suggestions, but


C. Sorry for only having a rubber mallet. I'm usualy not in favor of beating the tar out of my car.

---

Never use force----get a bigger hammer

One measured blow with an appropriately sized hammer is less damaging than 20 blows with one that is too small and trying to do the same job. (unless of course it'z a rubber hammer)

JD

 

[Jimbo]

Some German cars, BMW and VW for sure, use a small retaining screw that must be removed first. Does Audi have one? Then it is just a matter of beating on the edge of the rotor with a big hammer. I have a large brass one. This was necessary on the BMW.

 

[kenw]

"One measured blow with an appropriately sized hammer is less damaging than 20 blows with one that is too small and trying to do the same job. (unless of course it'z a rubber hammer)"

actually not, if (as I suspect in this case) there is corrosion holding the parts together. A few very well placed taps will fracture the corrosion and let the parts separate. One moster blow with a sledge can do more damage than good.

If they are truly wedged together, as in press-fit (and this I doubt) yes, mass is good and a larger hammer can be better. But I don't think this is the case.

 

[moribundman]

quote:

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If the rotors are so great - leave them on. If not, beat them off and get aftermarket ones [for cheap] to replace them.

---

Did I HAVE to mention the rotors are worn? I thought it was implied. Otherwise, why on Earth would I try to get them off? I removed the calipers for a reason.

As for the ones who are second-guessing my claim that the rotors are held in place by nothing but rust, you won't believe me if I say it for a third time.

Yes, I'm NOT crazy about using brute force either and the BFH will be my last option.