So who mentioned anything about a monster blow with a sledge???
I think it was "measured blow" and an "appropriately sized" hammer.
JD
Rotors are stuck to the hub
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I think it was "measured blow" and an "appropriately sized" hammer.
JD
sorry, my point was with the idea that a single blow would suffice. in this case it is very difficult to determine how much is "measured" properly. the tendency would be to start with one and then increase the force with each successive blow, and we know that's not a good idea.
I just know that many & smaller is better when it comes to rust-retained parts. Heck, you could probably loosen it with a vibratory action if there was something you could use to do that.
I just know that many & smaller is better when it comes to rust-retained parts. Heck, you could probably loosen it with a vibratory action if there was something you could use to do that.
Kestas
Staff member
You mean like a blunted air chisel?
There is an attachment for air hammers that has interchangeable cups to fit over various size bearings. It pounds on the hub between the bulge for the bearing and the studs. The one we have at school is an old Snap-on tool that is no longer made. I don't know if any other company makes them.
If your aim is accurate, a ballpeen (round end)hitting between the bearing bulge and the studs should work, as someone has suggested. Yes, there is a risk of damage to the bearings, but that is the price one pays.
Terry
If your aim is accurate, a ballpeen (round end)hitting between the bearing bulge and the studs should work, as someone has suggested. Yes, there is a risk of damage to the bearings, but that is the price one pays.
Terry
But seriously...try heat on the hub area. And I don't think propane is going to cut it.quote:
Originally posted by moribundman:
D. For the last time: my car doesn't have lugnuts.
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Studs? No studs here. No lugnuts or walnuts. WHEEL-BOLTS. 5 big-arse bolts that sandwich the rotor between the hub and the wheel.
Anyway, so much hooplah over nothing. The Liquid Wrench did its job overnight. A couple hits with my sissy mallet and the rotors fell right off. No sweat. I'm surprised how well the Liquid Wrench penetrated the rust. The whole mating area between hub and rotor was soaked. I used a little anti-seize to prevent future aggravation.
PS: Regarding rebuilding parts on the front calipers:
The only thing replaceable, apart from the pads, are the 2 caliper guide pins. And they were still pristine. Other than that there's a rubber boot around the piston, but it doesn't look like it can be replaced by me. Probably it's cheaper to replace the caliper when the boot is bad.
PPS: Can I throw my old rotors in the household garbage?
Anyway, so much hooplah over nothing. The Liquid Wrench did its job overnight. A couple hits with my sissy mallet and the rotors fell right off. No sweat. I'm surprised how well the Liquid Wrench penetrated the rust. The whole mating area between hub and rotor was soaked. I used a little anti-seize to prevent future aggravation.
PS: Regarding rebuilding parts on the front calipers:
The only thing replaceable, apart from the pads, are the 2 caliper guide pins. And they were still pristine. Other than that there's a rubber boot around the piston, but it doesn't look like it can be replaced by me. Probably it's cheaper to replace the caliper when the boot is bad.
PPS: Can I throw my old rotors in the household garbage?
How many miles. What year.
Would be interesting for the rest of us to know what condition the insides are in and how much brake fluid maintenance has been done.(seeing as your footin' the bill
and how much discussion there has been around the topic.)
JD
Would be interesting for the rest of us to know what condition the insides are in and how much brake fluid maintenance has been done.(seeing as your footin' the bill
JD
Hang the pair of them up with your little hammer and make a heavy duty wind chime..
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1996 Audi A4 quattro
New front rotors and pads:
- in '97 (yes, I did drive that much then!) at 49k miles (courtesy of dealer under warranty)
New rear rotors and pads:
- at 75k miles
Not sure if a rebuild kit was used; there's one available for the rear brakes
New front rotors and pads:
- today
Brake fluid (DOT 4) changed:
- 1998
- 2000
- 2002
- 2004
It's got the space for brake fluid service in the service manual.
PS: Front discs are vented and slotted, rears are solid
New front rotors and pads:
- in '97 (yes, I did drive that much then!) at 49k miles (courtesy of dealer under warranty)
New rear rotors and pads:
- at 75k miles
Not sure if a rebuild kit was used; there's one available for the rear brakes
New front rotors and pads:
- today
Brake fluid (DOT 4) changed:
- 1998
- 2000
- 2002
- 2004
It's got the space for brake fluid service in the service manual.
PS: Front discs are vented and slotted, rears are solid
Some folks mount big fish on the wall, some mount big deer heads, sounds like your gonna mount a rotor on the wall
make a clock out of it and hang it in the garage, it'll make a good happy hour story..
make a clock out of it and hang it in the garage, it'll make a good happy hour story..
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I can donate them to the mafia. They always need anchors.
If the rotors are so great - leave them on. If not, beat them off and get aftermarket ones [for cheap] to replace them.
Case of "rust around the collar"?
I'd give my vote to repetitive taps with a normal metal hammer right around the rusted joint/ring. Liquid wrench is good as well. Just keep on tapping with the goal of chipping away at the rust and not demolishing anything else..
Ever use a jackhammer? You alway chip off the edges repetitively rather than try to take big chunks. Take advantage of any weak points that the enemy (rust in this case) has, don't attack his strengths.
I'd give my vote to repetitive taps with a normal metal hammer right around the rusted joint/ring. Liquid wrench is good as well. Just keep on tapping with the goal of chipping away at the rust and not demolishing anything else..
Ever use a jackhammer? You alway chip off the edges repetitively rather than try to take big chunks. Take advantage of any weak points that the enemy (rust in this case) has, don't attack his strengths.
Kestas
Staff member
Another thought - excessive hammering can be tough on the bearings, resulting in brinelled races. I would lean toward using the weight of the car or a gear puller to break the bond as others suggested.
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Pictures? Pictures of me with the mallet in the garage, or pictures of the rusty and worn rotors? How about a sound clip of me cursing like a sailor?
Don't toss them down a garbage shute, that's hazardous for a number of reasons! If you want them recycled leave them on a garage's door step as a present. I do this with oil mainly. Big stuff like broken rims, and drivetrain go to the dump. Our dump is actually a bunch of dumpsters where you sort everthing.
Cheers, Steve
Cheers, Steve
One way I've discovered to make friends (carrying $1000 of camera gear into the inner city, it's good to have friends) and help the environment is to take stuff like this (recyclable metals) with me in my trunk when I'm photographing stuff in the inner city. There's usually "homeless" person or someone that is collecting all sorts of stuff to resell to a recycler. Give it to them, they're really overjoyed and you don't have any headaches. A pair of steel rotors would make their day as they sell scrap by the pound.
Yes, I'm serious.
[ January 07, 2005, 10:20 AM: Message edited by: kenw ]
Yes, I'm serious.
[ January 07, 2005, 10:20 AM: Message edited by: kenw ]
That's a great idea, Ken. Very original. Good work!
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But it's only 32 floors down!
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