So I did an oil change and a quick undercar inspection of my parent's 2009 Prius and I also pulled the front wheels off to check the brakes - the pads had plenty of meat left for 121K, about 80% of the friction is there. I bent the tabs on the OEM Toyota shims to keep them in place and lubed them with Permatex Silicone Brake Lube(the moly formula) and the slide pins with Toyota's rubber grease. I'm sure this will be only set of pads this car will go through, but should I replace the pads out of PM to prevent rust jacking? I'm sure the OEM Advics pads are better made than most aftermarket(BPI/Raybestos and Wagner) ones, and the OEM pads are FF-rated. But is rust jacking a problem in temperate climates like non-mountain/coastal California?
Replace brake pads out of PM or no?
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If they moved freely theyre most likely ok, only time I'd change pads out of PM would be pads of unknown age sitting on questionable looking discs (lipped or scored or whatever).
In that case though, I'd be going through everything from the pedal rubber to the bleed nipple dust cap and everything inbetween.
In your case I'd have lubed the contact points and changed the fluid, then taken a short test drive with a couple of emergency stops to see if they're acceptable or not.
Its probably fair to say that parents in a prius aren't driving fast so they may not notice any braking problems until its too late. Do them a favour and make sure they're safe. Brownie points and Mum will cook you dinner
In that case though, I'd be going through everything from the pedal rubber to the bleed nipple dust cap and everything inbetween.
In your case I'd have lubed the contact points and changed the fluid, then taken a short test drive with a couple of emergency stops to see if they're acceptable or not.
Its probably fair to say that parents in a prius aren't driving fast so they may not notice any braking problems until its too late. Do them a favour and make sure they're safe. Brownie points and Mum will cook you dinner
as long as corrosion is in check what's to worry about.
If I have them apart and they are more than 70% worn or so I'll change them, but otherwise...Motor on!
If I have them apart and they are more than 70% worn or so I'll change them, but otherwise...Motor on!
Originally Posted By: Olas
Do them a favour and make sure they're safe. Brownie points and Mum will cook you dinner
And that she did - I took the car on a 20 mile trip to the mall for a new pair of shoes and the car stopped as expected, probably with a little less noise too. The car sees a lot of highway miles as well.
Do them a favour and make sure they're safe. Brownie points and Mum will cook you dinner
And that she did - I took the car on a 20 mile trip to the mall for a new pair of shoes and the car stopped as expected, probably with a little less noise too. The car sees a lot of highway miles as well.
Motor on. I just checked the brakes on my Jeep. I have about 75-80% remaining in the front and probably 40% in the rear, they're staying.
When I lived in NY, I would take the brakes apart to keep everything lubed up and rust free.
Sounds like the service you did is right on.
When the rotors get out of spec and warp (maybe never), replace everything.
Sounds like the service you did is right on.
When the rotors get out of spec and warp (maybe never), replace everything.
Prius and freeway miles - you did plenty of PM on them. I wouldn't touch them until the next 100k+ passes by.
I would keep running them until they get too thin or start getting noisy. Biggest issue I've seen with brakes are stuck slide pins or of the pads get seized in the bracket.
I think that as long as you do the PM to clean and relube the slide pins, clean the shims and lube up brake pad ears (maybe file off some rust if they're tight).
Getting new pads may add additional risk - noisy, dirty, etc.
I think that as long as you do the PM to clean and relube the slide pins, clean the shims and lube up brake pad ears (maybe file off some rust if they're tight).
Getting new pads may add additional risk - noisy, dirty, etc.
I wouldn't bother - but do make sure that the area on the bracket below the clips is free of rust/debris. The issues seem to come from the pads seizing in place due to rust on the brackets, but this is a rare issue in our area.
P.S. I was down to about 3mm on my front pads at around 95k, but I have a 2011 (Gen 3). I do also try pretty hard...
P.S. I was down to about 3mm on my front pads at around 95k, but I have a 2011 (Gen 3). I do also try pretty hard...
Originally Posted By: EdwardC
I would keep running them until they get too thin or start getting noisy. Biggest issue I've seen with brakes are stuck slide pins or of the pads get seized in the bracket.
I think that as long as you do the PM to clean and relube the slide pins, clean the shims and lube up brake pad ears (maybe file off some rust if they're tight).
Getting new pads may add additional risk - noisy, dirty, etc.
....every 50k miles would be what I'm going to do now that I've replaced pads and pins on the Kitacam...inspecting shims and other parts....
I would keep running them until they get too thin or start getting noisy. Biggest issue I've seen with brakes are stuck slide pins or of the pads get seized in the bracket.
I think that as long as you do the PM to clean and relube the slide pins, clean the shims and lube up brake pad ears (maybe file off some rust if they're tight).
Getting new pads may add additional risk - noisy, dirty, etc.
....every 50k miles would be what I'm going to do now that I've replaced pads and pins on the Kitacam...inspecting shims and other parts....
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