Replace Bearings in Pairs?

[gathermewool]

Well, poop. ill call the dealer now.
Do they normally come out on the shaft and can be reused or should they always be replaced?

 

[gathermewool]

Dealer parts guy says the system only shows the c clip as coming with a new shaft. A master tech there helped him look up a different year forester but I’ll need to pull MY c clip to take there and compare, just to be certain. :sigh:

I looked at parts online and i couldn’t find the clip either, not for sure.

Any other ideas while I try to get the old clip out?

/

What would happen, worst case, if I couldby source a new clip?

 

[t1snwrbrdr12]

It doesn’t have to be re-mounted and super rigid, just hold the backing plate in one hand and smack the hub from behind with the bfh. Now that you’re going to get a direct hit it should work out. I’d think the c clip being reused will be fine. It’s a rear axle, there’s not a ton of movement since it’s not a steering axle. Of course with suspension droop it moves some, but I doubt it’d be enough to tension or stress that retaining clip. I could be wrong though. I’d just pop it back on the axle, personally (the clip...find it and pop it back on).

 

[gathermewool]

It doesn’t have to be re-mounted and super rigid, just hold the backing plate in one hand and smack the hub from behind with the bfh. Now that you’re going to get a direct hit it should work out. I’d think the c clip being reused will be fine. It’s a rear axle, there’s not a ton of movement since it’s not a steering axle. Of course with suspension droop it moves some, but I doubt it’d be enough to tension or stress that retaining clip. I could be wrong though. I’d just pop it back on the axle, personally (the clip...find it and pop it back on).

The clip is still in the rear diff. It’s round all around, if that makes a difference. I was expecting the exposed part you see in the attached pic to be flat. It looks as if the shaft will slide ride over it and click into position.
thoughts?

 

[gathermewool]

Here’s what I see now. The seal is on there good and makes it slightly slippery. Even still I was able to get some really good whacks in. No movement yet

 

[ABN_CBT_ENGR]

Take a 1" piece of key stock and a BFH and knock the living &%$# out of it in a clockwise manner

That should do it

 

[gathermewool]

Im going out now to get a better pick set and a butane torch. does heating the outside of the knuckle make it expand or does the heat just help break loose some of the rust?

Take a 1" piece of key stock and a BFH and knock the living &%$# out of it in a clockwise manner

That should do it

Im using a hefty chisel and getting GOOD guts and all I see is the tiniest fraction of a mm on fwd end. Actually, I see it as a slight gap between the knuckle and backing plate. I don’t actually see it by movement of the hub.

At least Im now able to spray penetrant all around the seem on the back side.

 

[ABN_CBT_ENGR]

you may wind up just having to work it out that way

 

[Trav]

Dealer parts guy says the system only shows the c clip as coming with a new shaft. A master tech there helped him look up a different year forester but I’ll need to pull MY c clip to take there and compare, just to be certain. :sigh:

I looked at parts online and i couldn’t find the clip either, not for sure.

Any other ideas while I try to get the old clip out?

/

What would happen, worst case, if I couldby source a new clip?

Part Number: 28033FA000 according to their book. It cost under $5 It is an in stock part.

 

[Trav]

Im going out now to get a better pick set and a butane torch. does heating the outside of the knuckle make it expand or does the heat just help break loose some of the rust?



Im using a hefty chisel and getting GOOD guts and all I see is the tiniest fraction of a mm on fwd end. Actually, I see it as a slight gap between the knuckle and backing plate. I don’t actually see it by movement of the hub.

At least Im now able to spray penetrant all around the seem on the back side.

If the plate is looser then you have movement, it is coming out.

 

[t1snwrbrdr12]

The clip is still in the rear diff. It’s round all around, if that makes a difference. I was expecting the exposed part you see in the attached pic to be flat. It looks as if the shaft will slide ride over it and click into position.
thoughts?

not sure...can we see a picture of the axle that inserts into the diff? I’ve never seen that clip stay in the diff. I think it’ll need to come out if that’s what is supposed to be on the axle

 

[gathermewool]

you may wind up just having to work it out that way

If the plate is looser then you have movement, it is coming out.

I hope so! it’s not much, but something.

Part Number: 28033FA000 according to their book. It cost under $5 It is an in stock part.

That clip will take 3-5 days to source they say.

The dealer couldn’t find the exact part, but said 28333FA000 is what the master teach said might work and is what they have in hand. It’s from a diff model year Forester

not sure...can we see a picture of the axle that inserts into the diff? I’ve never seen that clip stay in the diff. I think it’ll need to come out if that’s what is supposed to be on the axle

see attached

 

[Trav]

I hope so! it’s not much, but something.


That clip will take 3-5 days to source they say.

The dealer couldn’t find the exact part, but said 28333FA000 is what the master teach said might work and is what they have in hand. It’s from a diff model year Forester



see attached

I checked it with a 2014 Forester XT touring and that's what came up, give it a shot. This is a Subaru thing, it happens to the WRX a lot too.

 

[R18Civic]

I've always done the bad bearing only and never had any problems.

 

[gathermewool]

I tried a few different picks and the clip will not come out. The attached pic gave me the best luck, but it would still let go before I could get it free. There’s not enough room to get even the thinnest needle nosed pliers with the pick.

As for the hub, I bought the hottest Bernzomatic HD had and created a nice little smoke show. The ball bearings on the other side of the race melted out of their carrier, the rubber on the outsides created a nice smoke show, and the grease boiled and reduced down...

I then pounded...and pounded. Nothing. I hate to say it guys, but I think I’m going to throw in the towel. I‘m going to call USAA Roadside tomorrow or Friday and have it taken to my mechanic. I’m sure he’ll marvel at what Ive accomplished so far. Lol

At least he has a clear shot to the bearing AND he’ll be two bolts and removal of the drum brakes away from replacing the knuckle if it comes to that.

I really hope that the freaking noise is gone when all of this is done!

/

A couple of final things:

1. I pulled the speed sensor before the smoke show and it was so brittle it fell apart in my hand. Well, fell in half. So, that’s another thing to replace...

At least this I can do myself.

2. The back of the hub assembly (that should be attached to the inner hub and act as a barrier to the bearings) was loose and completely disconnected when I removed the CV shaft. I could tell it was off before this, but wasnt sure what it was. Im guessing water intrusion from there is why the bearing started making noise.

 

[ABN_CBT_ENGR]

you did good

 

[Trav]

I tried a few different picks and the clip will not come out. The attached pic gave me the best luck, but it would still let go before I could get it free. There’s not enough room to get even the thinnest needle nosed pliers with the pick.

As for the hub, I bought the hottest Bernzomatic HD had and created a nice little smoke show. The ball bearings on the other side of the race melted out of their carrier, the rubber on the outsides created a nice smoke show, and the grease boiled and reduced down...

I then pounded...and pounded. Nothing. I hate to say it guys, but I think I’m going to throw in the towel. I‘m going to call USAA Roadside tomorrow or Friday and have it taken to my mechanic. I’m sure he’ll marvel at what Ive accomplished so far. Lol

At least he has a clear shot to the bearing AND he’ll be two bolts and removal of the drum brakes away from replacing the knuckle if it comes to that.

I really hope that the freaking noise is gone when all of this is done!

/

A couple of final things:

1. I pulled the speed sensor before the smoke show and it was so brittle it fell apart in my hand. Well, fell in half. So, that’s another thing to replace...

At least this I can do myself.

2. The back of the hub assembly (that should be attached to the inner hub and act as a barrier to the bearings) was loose and completely disconnected when I removed the CV shaft. I could tell it was off before this, but wasnt sure what it was. Im guessing water intrusion from there is why the bearing started making noise.

Yes you did good! It is a shame it wouldn't come apart but at least you tried and that is more than many would even attempt. Getting the clip out is a PITA, long thin bent screwdriver, ground down extra long thin needle nose pics the whole show and it can still a knuckle buster so don't feel bad, its not easy.

The point of oxy acetylene is smaller centralized flame but intense heat, the housing expands away from the rusted hub, with propane or Mapp it tends to heat the whole object which results in a zero sum game.
Keep us posted.

Edit: Before you throw the towel in measure the ID of that hole in the hub and get a piece of iron fitting like a stub slightly bigger, grind a small taper on it and bang it in there from behind then beat the thing senseless with a 5lb hand held sledge. I have all sorts of weird stuff around here that have been modified for one job.

 

[gathermewool]

The Subie is at my mechanic now. They said they got the hub out but are having trouble with the circlip! He got the old one out, but mangled it in the process (expected, based on what you said, Trav).

The curve ball: without even first telling me what the status of the hub was, my mechanic called and asked if I could source an axle for him, because we couldn’t initially find a replacement clip (I posted about this earlier in the thread, where Trav helped out.)

I ended up calling subarupartswarehouse’s actual dealer parts department, because the online site doesn’t list a number for some reason (it’s easy to figure out.) While my local dealer couldn’t be sure of the part, this parts lady was able to pull the clip up immediately and said she’d have it waiting for me.

Anyway, I’m driving down 45 minutes to pick up the clip AND the front axle I had previous ordered and was waiting on shipment for, since the front right axle has been clicking badly on right turns for a little while now. I was going to do that job myself, but figured I’d throw that at my mechanic, since he’s been great through this process and the front axle should be a piece of cake for him.

/

So, that’s a new starter, rear left bearing (and speed sensor, which is likely my fault for not taking out before pounding away at things) and a front right CV shaft over 80k miles. That seems a bit excessive, but we still like the car...for now.

 

[ABN_CBT_ENGR]

do a pic of that thing ( the bore too) and was it rust or something else?

 

[Trav]

The Subie is at my mechanic now. They said they got the hub out but are having trouble with the circlip! He got the old one out, but mangled it in the process (expected, based on what you said, Trav).

The curve ball: without even telling me what the status of the hub was, he called and asked if I could source an axle for him, because we couldn’t initially find a replacement clip (I posted about this earlier in the thread, where Trav helped out.)

I ended up calling subarupartswarehouse’s actual dealer parts department, because the online site doesn’t list a number for some reason (it’s easy to figure out.) While the local dealer couldn’t be sure of the part, she pulled the clip up immediately and said she’d have it waiting for me.

Anyway, I’m driving down 45 minutes to pick up the clip AND the front axle I need, since the front right axle is clicking badly on right turns now. I was going to do that job myself, but figured I’d throw that at my mechanic, since he’s been great through this process and the front axle should be a piece of cake for him.

Good! I figured that clip is not coming out looking like new, a PITA for sure. Make sure you pick up a new roll pin for the front shaft (if it is not included, they usually are) from the dealer if they still use them on the 2014 for the front axle? Yes they can be reused but...