Replace Bearings in Pairs?

[AutoMechanic]

Unfortunately that tool isn't doing this sort of work with much effectiveness, it just doesn't have enough hitting power.
You need a hard hitting air hammer with the correct bit.

I agree with you Trav an air hammer is going to be much more powerful than a electric one. I have actually never seen an electric one until now. I know if he is at home that he may not have a compressor but maybe able to find a shop to take it off of it for him if he just brings the piece instead of the whole car.

 

[Trav]

I agree with you Trav an air hammer is going to be much more powerful than a electric one. I have actually never seen an electric one until now. I know if he is at home that he may not have a compressor but maybe able to find a shop to take it off of it for him if he just brings the piece instead of the whole car.

Off the car is not as big a problem for sure but getting it off can be a problem without the proper tools. In the rust belt, a smoke wrench ( oxy-acetylene torch), air hammer (smaller ones work ok for most things), cobalt drill bits, good quality taps and dies are mandatory or else you can get yourself in a bind not being able to get it fully apart or back together.

For DIY guys something like this smaller torch set can make life a lot easier, I cant recommend any specific one, commercial ones use bigger bottles but basically the same just a different bottle size. Airgas will refill (exchange) the cylinders when needed.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lincoln-Electric-Port-A-Torch-Kit/1000119507

 

[AutoMechanic]

Off the car is not as big a problem for sure but getting it off can be a problem without the proper tools. In the rust belt, a smoke wrench ( oxy-acetylene torch), air hammer (smaller ones work ok for most things), cobalt drill bits, good quality taps and dies are mandatory or else you can get yourself in a bind not being able to get it fully apart or back together.

For DIY guys something like this smaller torch set can make life a lot easier, I cant recommend any specific one, commercial ones use bigger bottles but basically the same just a different bottle size. Airgas will refill (exchange) the cylinders when needed.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lincoln-Electric-Port-A-Torch-Kit/1000119507

Yes I agree I need some of those for my house. Heck I have everything else at home lol we have a similar one at work too.

 

[gathermewool]

Unfortunately that tool isn't doing this sort of work with much effectiveness, it just doesn't have enough hitting power.
You need a hard hitting air hammer with the correct bit.

Surprisingly, it hits pretty hard, but you’re right, it’s not nearly as powerful as an air hammer!

The main issue I’m having with even this little hammer is keeping it on the bolt. It wanders and floats off as soon as I trigger it.

I also feel that I’m getting more bang for my buck with the 4# sledge.

 

[Trav]

Surprisingly, it hits pretty hard, but you’re right, it’s not nearly as powerful as an air hammer!

The main issue I’m having with even this little hammer is keeping it on the bolt. It wanders and floats off as soon as I trigger it.

I also feel that I’m getting more bang for my buck with the 4# sledge.

Improvise, this is why you dont toss out old or cheap sockets. Put a 1/2" drive the correct size on the bolt head and the punch of the hammer into the socket hole. It wont walk, you can do the same thing with a short piec of pipe or anything else you get in there, not to take the impact just keep it on the bolt head.

 

[gathermewool]

Off the car is not as big a problem for sure but getting it off can be a problem without the proper tools. In the rust belt, a smoke wrench ( oxy-acetylene torch), air hammer (smaller ones work ok for most things), cobalt drill bits, good quality taps and dies are mandatory or else you can get yourself in a bind not being able to get it fully apart or back together.

For DIY guys something like this smaller torch set can make life a lot easier, I cant recommend any specific one, commercial ones use bigger bottles but basically the same just a different bottle size. Airgas will refill (exchange) the cylinders when needed.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Lincoln-Electric-Port-A-Torch-Kit/1000119507

I would need to remove the CV shaft to use heat, I think. If I remove the CV shaft I’ll have a shot at hammering directly on the recessed portion of the hub, as well as the four fasteners.

I do have a decent tap and die set (Craftsman, I think) and an air compressor. I can see if I can source an air hammer.

//

Unfortunately I’m running out of time. We don’t NEED the car back by next week, but it would definitely make our lives easier. My deadline is to be complete by Thursday or call a tow truck. Luckily, I’ve got USAA Roadside, which covers $100 towing.

Finally, what are your thoughts on flat-bedding as-is, in its currently disassembled state? As it is, I don’t think I want to risk transporting my vehicle via flatbread to the shop with one wheel attached all janky. The risk of them driving it into the shop or some other distance seems risky.

 

[gathermewool]

Improvise, this is why you dont toss out old or cheap sockets. Put a 1/2" drive the correct size on the bolt head and the punch of the hammer into the socket hole. It wont walk, you can do the same thing with a short piec of pipe or anything else you get in there, not to take the impact just keep it on the bolt head.

I did that with an old craftsman socket and it came loose and rung around the punch every single hit. I could try wedging tape in there, too. Theres no room for the socket and my hand, since I have to guide the punch.

edit: actually, that was before I mailed the head of the sacrificial fastener. I wonder if it deformed enough or bent at the edges and the 14mm socket will wedge on tightly now.

 

[Trav]

You cant hold it with a pair of channellocks or is the space too tight even with a deep socket? Do not try to hold it with your hand.

 

[gathermewool]

You cant hold it with a pair of channellocks or is the space too tight even with a deep socket? Do not try to hold it with your hand.

Its pretty tight in there.

 

[Trav]

Its pretty tight in there.

I figured that. You should see some of the fun I have been having today between coffee breaks and posting on here. LOL
I will post pics in another thread. I pace myself, this will go on till 2AM, because of some medical issues I had last year I cant go 100% for too long so I just work longer hours and take more breaks.

Are you close by to me? I could stop over with a few tools (SW and CP717) and knock the thing out for you, you provide the coffee. PM me.

 

[gathermewool]

I don’t think I can even imagine! I bet you see some wild things, making this pale in comparison...

I like your approach to impediment: work longer, not harder.

Does “SW” stand for smoke wrench? I don’t know why, but I get a real kick out of that terminology!

My wife made me put some stuff (solanpas (sp)) on my neck to hopefully reduce the pain. I’m going to go down before I go to bed tonight and at least put a few knocks into it and spray some more PB Blaster, including on every connection to the knuckle, just to make it easier for the mechanic if it comes to that...

 

[ABN_CBT_ENGR]

If this keeps going, I'm gonna have to get on the horn and cuss the $%#& thing out.

 

[gathermewool]

I know it will cost me more, but part of me is hoping my mechanic has a hard time with this thing. Yea, right! He’ll probably have this thing out in a jiffy!

 

[Trav]

Does “SW” stand for smoke wrench? I don’t know why, but I get a real kick out of that terminology!

Yep, one of the must have tools in our area.

 

[gathermewool]

The CV shaft is out of the way. All of the fasteners were removed with a regular 3/8” ratchet! I was able to get it out without removing the upper ball joint nor the alignment arm (no alignment required after this). I did loose both sides of the trailing arm so I wouldn’t damage the bushing on the forward side. see attached.

the backing plate from the inside of the hub assembly wasn’t even attached.

 

[Trav]

The CV shaft is out of the way. All of the fasteners were removed with a regular 3/8” ratchet! I was able to get it out without removing the upper ball joint nor the alignment arm (no alignment required after this). I did loose both sides of the trailing arm so I wouldn’t damage the bushing on the forward side. see attached.

the backing plate from the inside of the hub assembly wasn’t even attached.

Very cool. So where are at now with this?

 

[gathermewool]

thinking mode. Do I want to attach the strut arm for more rigidity as I bang on the inside of the bearing or so I do it as is.

Also, the C-clip did not pop out with the CV shaft. I’m assuming it will clip back into place when I push it back in?

 

[Trav]

thinking mode. Do I want to attach the strut arm for more rigidity as I bang on the inside of the bearing or so I do it as is.

Also, the C-clip did not pop out with the CV shaft. I’m assuming it will clip back into place when I push it back in?

That clip needs to come out, can you feel it with your finger?

 

[gathermewool]

That clip needs to come out, can you feel it with your finger?

I saw it in there with a mirror. I’m taking your advice ABT_CBT_ENGR’s advice and taking a break before moving on. Lunch, hydration and some Advil are in order

 

[Trav]

I saw it in there with a mirror. I’m taking your advice ABT_CBT_ENGR’s advice and taking a break before moving on. Lunch, hydration and some Advil are in order

I long pick with a slight corve on the end will usually pry it up enough to jan a thin screwdriver blade in so you retrieve it with long needle nose. Use a new clip.