Replace Bearings in Pairs?

With bearings, I only replace the one that's failing. Some of them literally outlive the car, so you're throwing money away by replacing a known good one in my opinion.
 
Well, instead of the whole hub assembly coming out, it split in half. I can see the balls in the race. Good news is that the slide hammer was absolutely needed!

And yes, the bolts are removed from the back. Lol

Im going to beat on it for a little and see if it comes loose. Not looking good since it took around 50 hanmmers with the slide hammer for THIS to happen.

Recommendations please
 

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I’m going to thread in on of the four fasteners and sacrifice it. Beat on it with a punch
 

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Never heard of any shop preemptively replacing a wheel bearing on the opposite side of the car. Usually hitting a large pothole etc is what starts a wheel bearing going bad. Unlikely to affect the opposite side. In 30 years, have never had a car come back a short time later with the other side noisy, unless it was noisy when the first one was done and the tech did not road test after the first bearing was replaced. Sometimes a really loud bearing can mask the noise from the second worn bearing.
 
That is what we had to do on MDX here in the salt belt back when I worked at Acura. Leave the bolts in, but loosened 5-10 turns, and use an air chisel on the bolt heads from the backside.

I did exactly as you mentioned and loosened it very little from where the bolt flange contacted the knuckle. I don’t have air, let alone a chisel, unfortunately.

No luck so far after giving it a good 50 or so raps! I’m using a small hammer, which might be the problem. I’m off the buy a BFH now.

My concern is not being able to get the bolt back out. After 50 raps with a smallish hammer the sacrificial bolt came out very easily without ANY pushes threads which is an awesome sign...for now
 
for what?

Something is mechanically frozen ( corroded or whatever)

You might need to call someone for assistance

I suggest you get new grade 5 hardware too ( just in case)

Read post # 65

Whichever fastener I use to chisel will only be used temporarily. I plan to replace it.

Edit: I should have started a new thread. Sorry for the confusing turn of topic.
 
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Ended up going with Ridgid since I have batteries for. Has hammer only setting. Still no luck with it nor BFH...starting to lose hope.
 

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Jeez Louise this thing just doesn’t want to come loose! The sacrificial fastener still threads in and out by hand, but the head has taken a beating, the front too!

Im wondering what someone else can do that I’m not.
 

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something else is wrong

Trust me I’ve poured over the instructions and video to see what I missed. The instructions are incredibly simple. Unbolt, pull out. Bing bango!

As you can see there’s literally nothing holding the inside of the hub on!
 

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Trust me I’ve poured over the instructions and video to see what I missed. The instructions are incredibly simple. Unbolt, pull out. Bing bango!

As you can see there’s literally nothing holding the inside of the hub on!

I didn't say you didn't and it is that simple on this application.

Something somewhere is holding this in ( doesn't look rust welded but that doesn't mean it isn't)

Back off, breathe deeply and maybe get another set of eyes.

Something else is going on
 
I didn't say you didn't and it is that simple on this application.

Something somewhere is holding this in ( doesn't look rust welded but that doesn't mean it isn't)

Back off, breathe deeply and maybe get another set of eyes.

Something else is going on

I‘m a pretty calm dude. Sorry if it seems like I’m frustrated - Im barely that. If worse comes to worst, I’ll have it towed and see if they see something I don’t. I always go into DIY projects knowing I might fail and have to pay someone to finish or, worse, fix my mistake and then finish. haha

If it’s that my replies are short, that’s because I haven’t given up banging on the thing and only stop for a drink and an update here. With that said, I am about done for the night. My wife can drive me to work tomorrow.

RE: rust: I’ve banged on rotors for tens of minutes to get loose the first time. And that’s with a decent lever arm (the disc itself) and a nice large surface area to bang on. Don’t underestimate the power of rust! ;)

Finally, I’ve got a buddy who has essentially done every job there is to do on nearly every make and model, sometimes figuring out and fixing (or temp jury rigging) what others couldn’t. I’m going to see if he can stop by ”for a beer” sometime Soon.
 
try this
Saturate it front and back with penetrating oil

Get a long punch and get a bolt hole/corner from the front (even if you have to take the brake stuff off)

knock h@ll out of it and try to get it to go clockwise/CCW- see if that breaks it loose
 
try this
Saturate it front and back with penetrating oil

Get a long punch and get a bolt hole/corner from the front (even if you have to take the brake stuff off)

knock h@ll out of it and try to get it to go clockwise/CCW- see if that breaks it loose

I soaked both sides in PB Blaster first thing this morning, before I started.

I was reticent to use a punch that way, not wanting to ruin the threads. Having no other option I just tried what you recommended. Beautiful, whole whacks with the 4# and nothing...except ruined threads. Great suggestion - seriously. I’ll rotate that in tomorrow. All well.

Plan B: let it soak in penetrant overnight and try again tomorrow.

As you recommended, get a second set of eyes on it. Hopefully my buddy can come through. He’s also my chief, so I know where he works and lives! Lol

Plan C: if I can’t get it out by the middle of the week I’ll cry uncle and have it towed.
 
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