Removing rusted, very stuck brake rotors

[Tegger]

Somebody posted this YouTube video a while back, and I just had a chance to try out the technique:


Just replaced the rotors on the daughter's Tercel, and I can report with abundant confidence that this technique ACTUALLY WORKS!

One rotor was rusted to the point where the usual 8mm bolts pulling from the face of the top-hat simply expanded the steel and fractured it. But using the bolt-from-the-rear technique pushed the rotor right off in a few seconds. Easy as pie.

I did find that, in my case, it was unnecessary to use two bolts, or two washers and the second nut on the end of each bolt. One bolt, one washer and one nut were sufficient, with the end of the bolt bearing directly on the rotor surface.

I used an M12x50 bolt and appropriate washer/nut, since that configuration was compatible with the Tercel's brake design.

 

[Colt45ws]

Sweet!

 

[spasm3]

Interesting, but i've always used a BFH, like a 2 lb or 4 lb mallet. Never failed to get one off. Fast and easy.

 

[bubbatime]

I'll put that technique into my "head toolbox" for future reference. There has been a time or two when the BFH doesnt budge them, until you get a bigger BFH and then hope and pray that something doesn't break.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Painted or coated rotors like Centric Premium and Fremax help deter rust so this won't be a problem anymore

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: bubbatime
until you get a bigger BFH and then hope and pray that something doesn't break.

That's exactly the point: No BFH needed, and no useless, tiring pounding on the rotor.

If I hadn't been in such a hurry, I would have taken some pics or made a video.

This is what I did:
1) Remove caliper mount bracket from steering knuckle
2) Hold nut and washer more-or-less in place against one of the holes in the knuckle
3) Push M12x50 bolt through that hole in the knuckle, and feed the nut onto it
4) Use 19mm wrench and socket to turn bolt against rotor while holding nut still
5) Repeat a few times, turning the rotor each time
6) Off the rotor came. So easy. No effort.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Painted or coated rotors like Centric Premium and Fremax help deter rust so this won't be a problem anymore

Rotors stick to the hub INTERNALLY. And I'll bet nobody coats the inside of the top hat.

 

[MNgopher]

Used that trick several times. Never failed to get a rotor off that way. Amazing how satisfying it is when you give a few swings with a hammer, realize thats just the way its going to be, and pop them off this way...

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Tried that on a 2003 Hyundai Accent.

It turned a "quick" brake job into a new knuckle.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Painted or coated rotors like Centric Premium and Fremax help deter rust so this won't be a problem anymore

Rotors stick to the hub INTERNALLY. And I'll bet nobody coats the inside of the top hat.

The coating does indeed include the inside of the top hat. It also includes the inside of the rotor (vented discs' vanes are coated too. Everything except the area where the pads sweep the rotor is coated

Centric Premium


Inside of the hat

The side of the rotor

 

[901Memphis]

That was pretty cool when it popped the first time and there was a rust cloud

 

[dlundblad]

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
Painted or coated rotors like Centric Premium and Fremax help deter rust so this won't be a problem anymore

Rotors stick to the hub INTERNALLY. And I'll bet nobody coats the inside of the top hat.

The coating does indeed include the inside of the top hat. It also includes the inside of the rotor (vented discs' vanes are coated too. Everything except the area where the pads sweep the rotor is coated

Centric Premium


Inside of the hat

The side of the rotor

Did you have to clean these in the kitchen sink?

I've read before that brake parts cleaner isnt good to use on these.

 

[Olas]

A smear of copper grease on contact points is worth more than gold in these applications

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: slacktide_bitog
The coating does indeed include the inside of the top hat.

Nice! What took them so long to think of doing this?

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: Olas
A smear of copper grease on contact points is worth more than gold in these applications

I have found that Molykote M77 works about 1000% better than copper grease.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: dlundblad
Did you have to clean these in the kitchen sink?

I've read before that brake parts cleaner isnt good to use on these.

No kitchen sink, just lots of 60 grit emery cloth.

I don't think brake cleaner does anything worse than what ordinary weather does anyway.

 

[Kira]

Molycoat M77 is what?....a grease? I assume it's a grease that stands up to weather better than others. Kira

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: Kira
Molycoat M77 is what?....a grease? I assume it's a grease that stands up to weather better than others. Kira

Molykote M77. It's technically a paste. Google it.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: Olas
A smear of copper grease on contact points is worth more than gold in these applications


Indeed. Might as well take it apart after a couple of years, give it a good looking over, and coat everything up, so that it'll come apart properly when you need it to.

 

[supton]

Originally Posted By: Tegger
Originally Posted By: Kira
Molycoat M77 is what?....a grease? I assume it's a grease that stands up to weather better than others. Kira

Molykote M77. It's technically a paste. Google it.


Honda M77 I belive The_Critic (or The_Eric?) recommends this stuff. I tried it recently, and found it does work much much better than Sta-Lube.