I figured out a better way to remove the tensioner bolt if it is stuck

[JimPghPA]

We are going to be going over my brothers 2013 Civic LX that has 108,000 miles on it, and adjusting the valves, replacing the water-pump, hoses, thermostat, both coolant temperature sensors, tensioner, and serpentine belt, and several other items. One of the YouTube videos I watched shows that the pivot bolt can be a royal pain to break loose to remove it. They broke two of the hex bits and one of the ones they broke was impact rated.





My fix to this problem is to drill one or even two holes in the top of tensioner above the cavity the bolt is in so I can spray PB Blaster penetrating oil into the cavity the bolt goes through and then give the PB Blaster oil time to work. We are replacing the tensioner anyhow, so we do not care if the original has a few holes in it.

If the bolt does not come loose easily when we do this job, I plan to replace that bolt with a new one, because when we drill the tensioner, the original bolt will get nicked by the drill bit.

For the 2013 Honda Civic LX with the 1.8 Liter gasoline, the part number for that pivot bolt is 90001-R1A-A00 and OEMPartsource.com sells it for $1.98 and the dealer wants $8.31 for one.

If one hole does not allow the PB Blaster to enter well, I plan to drill a second hole to allow air out while the PB Blaster is sprayed into the other hole.

If I do end up spraying penetrating oil on the tensioner pivot mount with hole(s) in it, I will use plenty of rags to protect the other pullies from getting any oil on them.

Sometimes you just have to be a little smarter than the equipment you are working on.

Just thought I would pass this fix along so if you end up with a stuck bolt and it is in an application that drilling a hole or two will allow better application of a penetrating oil to loosen the bolt, you might try this.

 

[The Critic]

Maybe you should try your idea before recommending it.

 

[LazyDog]

What a job, I curse few times when I did my son's CRV. My Volvo's are very easy to do!

 

[Trav]

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Tools-1834-Flex-Head-Impact/dp/B01JBP4NGQ/ref=asc_df_B01JBP4NGQ/

 

[The Critic]

What a job, I curse few times when I did my son's CRV. My Volvo's are very easy to do!

A deep 1/4” drive 12mm socket and a super long 1/4” ratchet removes the K24 belt tensioner bolts without any drama.

 

[JimPghPA]

https://www.amazon.com/Astro-Tools-1834-Flex-Head-Impact/dp/B01JBP4NGQ/ref=asc_df_B01JBP4NGQ/

When they lowered the engine they had good access to use there regular impact gun on that bolt and he said that using penetrating oil and the impact gun on it every day still took a week to get it loose. If he had drilled the holes the penetrating oil would have had good access to the bolt and been able to get to the threads.

 

[D60]

When they lowered the engine they had good access to use there regular impact gun on that bolt and he said that using penetrating oil and the impact gun on it every day still took a week to get it loose. If he had drilled the holes the penetrating oil would have had good access to the bolt and been able to get to the threads.

I'm unclear also: you've done this or plan to do this?

Can the fastener in question be accessed with an inductor? Has anyone tried this?

 

[Astro14]

He watched a video and concocted a plan. That’s the post.

He hasn’t done it yet.

 

[LazyDog]

A deep 1/4” drive 12mm socket and a super long 1/4” ratchet removes the K24 belt tensioner bolts without any drama.

I did replace the tensioner and made it much more difficult for me, it was my first time doing this on a Honda.

I can do my Volvo's in few easy steps on my sleep, I done more than just a few.

 

[JimPghPA]

I ordered the parts. RockAuto has a Gates combination kit that includes the tensioner, pulley and belt for about $50 less than buying all of them separate.

My brother recently said that he thinks the water-pump is making some noise so my wanting to get these things done to it with that many miles on it might be right on target, and he is glad I included the water-pump in what I ordered, so we will try to do it soon, but we also have a lot going on in our family right now with someone requiring 24/7 medical help, so it may be a while. We're waiting on parts from RockAuto and OEMPartSource.com right now. Spent $751.66 on parts + fluids + shipping + tax so far.

 

[The Critic]

I ordered the parts. RockAuto has a Gates combination kit that includes the tensioner, pulley and belt for about $50 less than buying all of them separate.

You are better off replacing the belt with a Bando or dealer belt and reusing all of the other components. All of the Gates parts are low quality junk.

 

[JimPghPA]

You are better off replacing the belt with a Bando or dealer belt and reusing all of the other components. All of the Gates parts are low quality junk.

Thanks for the warning. I will return all 3 of the Gates parts. Quality is a big deal now days with all the junk that is out there. Seriously thanks, I take your warning as very good timely advice.

Seriously, thanks.

 

[mpgo4th]

You are better off replacing the belt with a Bando or dealer belt and reusing all of the other components. All of the Gates parts are low quality junk.

Bando belts are great for vehicles prone to noisy belts. And they are usually cheaper too.

 

[windeye]

The bolt is likely reverse thread...

 

[D60]

{snip} so we will try to do it soon, but we also have a lot going on in our family right now with someone requiring 24/7 medical help, so it may be a while. {snip}

Two separate, unrelated statements, the first of which I must say so I do not appear insensitive:

1) I truly am sorry about your family member

2) I found the premise of the thread as it pertains to vehicle tech anticlimactic. Typically with such things I'll try my idea, document with pics, and then post my results.

In post #1 you seem all but certain it will work. I hope you're right. Of course even if it does you could have just had a "lucky" case where the bolt decided to cooperate, to use a concept from the vid you posted. This is not to say we shouldn't try new ideas, but rather a sample of one makes it difficult to draw conclusions

 

[Trav]

When they lowered the engine they had good access to use there regular impact gun on that bolt and he said that using penetrating oil and the impact gun on it every day still took a week to get it loose. If he had drilled the holes the penetrating oil would have had good access to the bolt and been able to get to the threads.

I saw that part of it, with the extension he lost a lot of power from the impact gun and with a swivel even more. He didn't say once he dropped the engine and had a straight shot at it it took a week. Working mechanics don't have time to frig around for a week on one bolt.
If you can get the angle small head impact in there with a quality socket I bet its coming right out. If not drop the mount right away and hit it, if it breaks drill it but don't **** around for a week. JM2C

 

[Zee09]

Good luck with it all.

 

[Supersonic]

Video moments are ~10m and 17m.

ASAP spray the penetrating oil as described and continue 2x per day until ready to start, then use 1/2 inch drive 8mm, than just make sure the hex is seated and add leverage using a breaker bar from above preferably but looks like access from below is an option too.

I'm not sure where you're talking about drilling but I'd think that is not really going to be effective and likely could cause a different issue.

drill the tensioner, the original bolt will get nicked by the drill bit.

Spend the money for a high quality socket if possible, I got the 7pc Husky set from Home Depot, it doesn't have 8mm but checking between Harbor Freight and Lowe's they have some options.

 

[Quantico]

Dealer part or isin