Remote filter - how big is too big?

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Hi all. I didn't post this in the Bypass Filter Forum because it's to do with relocating the full flow filter on my Civic; please let me know if I'm asking this in the wrong place....

I plan to use a remote filter setup to relocate the oil filter on my '99 Civic (D16Y7 if that's important to anyone
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) to really pretty much any place that makes it easier (ie cleaner) to change the filter than where it is currently. I think it would also be an easy way to add some volume to the system by using a REALLY oversized filter such as for an old Ford or Chev V8 but is there such a thing as going too far in this regard?

Thanks!

Greg
 
As long as you add oil to make up for the increased capacity, you should have no problems. Fluid doesn't really compress, so you won't lose pressure over distance/volume.
 
Squishy, Believe it or not, fluid does compress. Not much, but compress it does. And there is a pressure drop through the transfer medium be it tubeing,, pipe or hose. Even through the twists and turns. Especially through machined elbows etc.
 
Well, yes, everything compresses, but I've always been under the impression that it doesn't make a difference for the kind of routing that a remote filter requires, no matter how 'remote' you make the filter.

Does it?
 
The amount oil is going to compress under automotive oil pressure is so negligible, it isn't worth mentioning.
Why did I mention this?
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Where are you going to place the remote? Just curious.
 
big filters are good mount it as close to the original filter as possible and mount it so the filter can be filled with oil when replacing use a quality mounting kit with at least half inch hose and avoid 90 degree fittings as possible.
 
As Pete C. points out, you will pay some penalty for length of tubing and whatnot. It's either a pressure drop (when at relief) or pressure elevation (below relief limits). We typically don't move at the velocities and volumes that cost much though.

Another problem you can run into with too much length ..regardless of the size lines you use, is the physical mass of oil that you have to accelerate from zero to whatever speed it's supposed to be traveling at the time. You get 10' of oil filled hose ahead of the engine seeing it, you've got a relatively heavy freight train to get moving or change speeds with compared to the original short path.
 
Good replies, thanks all.

I hadn't quite decided where to mount it yet but I think I'm going to try and find somewhere along the firewall or possibly the inner fender on the passenger side. I was originally thinking of putting it behind the bumper somewhere that airflow could get to it but considering 1/3 to 1/2 our year is spent in cool or cold conditions, it would take a long time to warm that oil up (at -30 I think it may have a hard time just in the oil pan) so I'd be better off to leave it somewhere warm(ish). I hope to try and incorporate pressure and temperature gauges as well so I should be able to tell if I need to re-think things.

Would it be a good idea to mount it a little higher than the factory point so that when I start it, gravity should help feed oil into the engine at that critical time. I doubt it would make that much of a difference and it may actually make starvation at startup a little worse; if the line from the filter to the engine drains while the engine is off, then the pump going to have to push enough out of the filter to fill the line and start pumping to the engine. The true worst case is making the pump do that during the winter.

I definitely intend to mount it upright (holes up) or at the very least set the mounts up so they're easy to detach; I don't like the mess I make every time I change the oil in this thing and it would be nice to turn this into a simple open hood, unscrew old filter, install new filter, drive to arcade affair.


(BTW I should add a couple of things because I know someone must be interested...it is BITOG afterall.....the cars are a '95 Odyssey and '99 Civic. I run Amsoil HDD in both and would like to add volume to my system for 2 reasons 1-added volume gives a little cushioning to the year-long intervals I run 2 - larger filter changed out at 6 months means more oil added as makeup and therefore, more additives replenished. Lastly, I plan to use the Chev 2-quart filter or similar.)
 
Gravity doesn't feed an engine. Feel free to mount it anywhere you want. The oil pump creates the flow. Oil flow restriction in the engine is where your pressure comes from.

If the filter has an ADBV, I wouldn't worry about its height. Sure, I wouldn't purposely install it upside down. Mount it where there is room and where it is CONVENIENT.

My recommendation mirrors some from above. Use the shortest oil-line runs as possible. Don't make too many sharp bends. Various 30 and 45 degree fittings are available to prevent hose kinks. I also don't have a problem with 90 degree smooth adapters. Stick with 1/2" or 5/8" oil lines.

I've seen some poorly cast/machined oil filter mounts. Feel free to blueprint your remote filter mount. Port/cleanup/chamfer the mount's oil passages. Makes sure the threads are cut clean.

Feel free to use the biggest filter or even a dual filter mount if you want more oil capacity for better filtration, longer OCIs, or improve oil temp control.

Chevy doesn't use ADBVs in a bunch of their filter PN's. They also don't always have bypass valves. If you use a remote filter kit, but I do recommend the Ford 3/4" mounts. Sorry GM, but IMO, ADBV and BPV are a must!
 
4" mounts. Sorry GM, but IMO, ADBV and BPV are a must!">

This is the reason I love this place.....didn't occur to me that some manufacturers don't spec ADBVs etc....thanks!
 
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