After talking to quite a few people, they tell me running water wetter with straight water is the best way to go when it comes to racing.
opinions?
opinions?
Redline water wetter
- Thread starter Promo
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OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Opinion? I'm thinking you shouldn't have to do all of this to keep a relatively stock engine cool. There's something else amiss.
I have a new thermostat.. just haven't replaced it yet.
I didn't know a thermostat could stick closed? Perhaps it could.. idk.
If it's not the thermostat
the rad isn't clogged.. otherwise it would overheat during simple driving, correct?
As I said before, happened on the track. On the straight away, needle rose to 3/4. i put it into 4th gear and the temps instantly started going down.
I didn't know a thermostat could stick closed? Perhaps it could.. idk.
If it's not the thermostat
the rad isn't clogged.. otherwise it would overheat during simple driving, correct?
As I said before, happened on the track. On the straight away, needle rose to 3/4. i put it into 4th gear and the temps instantly started going down.
Originally Posted By: Promo
Uh.. I'm a newb when it comes to cooling. I'm learning as I go.
I was guessing there are certain brands that did a better job than others. Like how some people prefer rotella compared to Mobil 1.
Sorry if I asked any newbish questions.
So a 30% antifreeze and 70% distilled water combination would be good?
That combination would be good to run on the street while maximizing the water/coolant ratio to aid in cooling a bit (water cools better then antifreeze)
Originally Posted By: Promo
After talking to quite a few people, they tell me running water wetter with straight water is the best way to go when it comes to racing.
opinions?
Straight up water + WW would be best in controlling heat, yes but then you'd have to flush the system and return to a 50/50 mix (or 70/30) to keep corrosion under control.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Opinion? I'm thinking you shouldn't have to do all of this to keep a relatively stock engine cool. There's something else amiss.
Exactly my point
Originally Posted By: Promo
I have a new thermostat.. just haven't replaced it yet.
I didn't know a thermostat could stick closed? Perhaps it could.. idk.
If it's not the thermostat
the rad isn't clogged.. otherwise it would overheat during simple driving, correct?
As I said before, happened on the track. On the straight away, needle rose to 3/4. i put it into 4th gear and the temps instantly started going down.
I've seen thermostats get stuck in the open position and cause warm up problems / running the engine too cool even after fully warming up. Anything is possible.
It could very likely be a bad thermo causing the issue which only arises at the track where engine temps exceed that of daily use on the street.
Uh.. I'm a newb when it comes to cooling. I'm learning as I go.
I was guessing there are certain brands that did a better job than others. Like how some people prefer rotella compared to Mobil 1.
Sorry if I asked any newbish questions.
So a 30% antifreeze and 70% distilled water combination would be good?
That combination would be good to run on the street while maximizing the water/coolant ratio to aid in cooling a bit (water cools better then antifreeze)
Originally Posted By: Promo
After talking to quite a few people, they tell me running water wetter with straight water is the best way to go when it comes to racing.
opinions?
Straight up water + WW would be best in controlling heat, yes but then you'd have to flush the system and return to a 50/50 mix (or 70/30) to keep corrosion under control.
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Opinion? I'm thinking you shouldn't have to do all of this to keep a relatively stock engine cool. There's something else amiss.
Exactly my point
Originally Posted By: Promo
I have a new thermostat.. just haven't replaced it yet.
I didn't know a thermostat could stick closed? Perhaps it could.. idk.
If it's not the thermostat
the rad isn't clogged.. otherwise it would overheat during simple driving, correct?
As I said before, happened on the track. On the straight away, needle rose to 3/4. i put it into 4th gear and the temps instantly started going down.
I've seen thermostats get stuck in the open position and cause warm up problems / running the engine too cool even after fully warming up. Anything is possible.
It could very likely be a bad thermo causing the issue which only arises at the track where engine temps exceed that of daily use on the street.
does adding WW to a 50-50 mix do anything at all?
Do you have an AUX trans cooler? ,if not get the biggest one that'll fit and keep the trans fluid separate from the rad for best track cooling for the engine AND the trans.Is there an A/C condenser in the way,or was that already taken out?
Get an engine oil cooler you already have the sandwich adapter,thats a bonus.
Run straight distilled water with recommended wetting agent ,its also anti-corrsion plus lubes the pump.
Look for a high flow Fail-safe t-stat.... worth its weight in gold.
Most street cars need mods to do what track cars do everyday. With the proper prevention and planning /re-engineering you'll probably be ok ,plus keep in perspective that the factory didn't have racing in mind when designing these systems,save for the real pricey exotics,and even they re-mod their OWN systems for track use.
Get an engine oil cooler you already have the sandwich adapter,thats a bonus.
Run straight distilled water with recommended wetting agent ,its also anti-corrsion plus lubes the pump.
Look for a high flow Fail-safe t-stat.... worth its weight in gold.
Most street cars need mods to do what track cars do everyday. With the proper prevention and planning /re-engineering you'll probably be ok ,plus keep in perspective that the factory didn't have racing in mind when designing these systems,save for the real pricey exotics,and even they re-mod their OWN systems for track use.
Trans cooler is built into the rad, but I have a B&M sitting in the trunk, I've just been lazy to install it.
The sandwich plate has sensor ports, it's not the typical oil cooler sandwich plate. I have one of those on the way.
I also have the fail safe thermostat sitting int he trunk.. just haven't swapped them.
I've been talked into doing a 70/30 mix. I don't feel like changing the coolant back to 50/50 until it starts getting cold. haha
The sandwich plate has sensor ports, it's not the typical oil cooler sandwich plate. I have one of those on the way.
I also have the fail safe thermostat sitting int he trunk.. just haven't swapped them.
I've been talked into doing a 70/30 mix. I don't feel like changing the coolant back to 50/50 until it starts getting cold. haha
I have seen a lot of brand new top brand thermostats that were bad coming out of the box... Any time I have an issue with high radiator temps, I change out the thermostat first, even if it is new.
I'd bet that the auto transmission, in a track environment, is creating a tremendous amount of heat, in addition to the engine working at full power (heat) for relatively long periods of time.
The external air oil cooler and the larger radiator, IMO as someone who builds real race cars for a living, is probably the way to go. Hyundai is by no means a bad car, but really not over-engineered enough to be running like that.
The external air oil cooler and the larger radiator, IMO as someone who builds real race cars for a living, is probably the way to go. Hyundai is by no means a bad car, but really not over-engineered enough to be running like that.
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