Redline water wetter

Status
Not open for further replies.
P

Promo

Joined
May 28, 2011
Messages
58
Location
Michigan, 48098
I race my car.

It's mildly modified, I/H/E and a fully ported intake.
Stock rad..
I was at Grattan on 5/21 and my car started to overheat on the straight away, doing 120-130mph and the needle goes from a little under 1/2 to 3/4. I put it into a higher gear and cost off the track. Let it cool down.
I'm going to Gingerman on 6/26. I can't afford a new rad at the moment, but I'm hoping a higher weight oil and some water wetter would prevent me from overheating?
Any thoughts?
Also, how "unsafe" is it to put 1/4 quart of oil extra into the car to raise oil pressure?
I installed my oil sandwich plate and the OEM filter is a total [censored] to put into the car, so I bought a Mobil 1 filter which is about 1/2 the size of OEM. Unfortunately the bypass valve on the filter isn't as good as the one in the OEM filter causing a my HLA's to stick. In other words I have HLA tick. You can hear it from time to time when you do a lot of freeway driving and coast to a stock on the off-ramp.
I'll relocate the filter in the future as well as buy a Mishimotor radiator, but for the moment, is there anything I can do to keep the oil pressure higher at idle as well as keep the temps lower?
 
A higher wgt oil will not lower your oil temp. A lighter wgt oil will dissipate heat more quickly.

The bottom line is Water Wetter and a lighter oil will not (appreciably) lower your engine temp. You need a new radiator.

It is like using a band-aid on a .45 gunshot wound, it isn't going to do much.
 
What kind of car are we talking? I've been to Grattan and had no overheating problems at all, and was able to hit 140 on the straight.
 
I have had success with water wetter in a street rod application,the water wetter and water,no coolant.I have seen a reduction of 20 degrees,if all is ok then use it,but i agree it can be more of a band aid in your case.
 
Originally Posted By: chubbs1
A higher wgt oil will not lower your oil temp. A lighter wgt oil will dissipate heat more quickly.

The bottom line is Water Wetter and a lighter oil will not (appreciably) lower your engine temp. You need a new radiator.

It is like using a band-aid on a .45 gunshot wound, it isn't going to do much.


yeah that's sort of what I figured..

I'll order a Mishimoto rad from ebay, $225 well spent.
Hopefully I can order it and install before the 26th.
 
Question is why do you think a new radiator is needed. Because it is clogged with gunk? If so, why not try a citric acid flush??? Search diesel giant for mb diesel citric acid flush to show how to do it right...
 
A basically stock engine (minus the very minor I/H/E mods) shouldn't be overheating, let alone on a straight away while wind is hitting the radiator @ 120mph!! Something else is wrong here.

Usually cars overheat at the track after running around for a few laps and then coming into the pits for a rest... engine temps rise quickly because all the sudden, large amounts of air isn't entering the engine bay and the poor radiator fans aren't up to the task after sustained high RPM driving.

You shouldn't be overheating while driving.

1st, Check that your radiator is not clogged up with junk causing poor air flow.

As far as the WW... like already mentioned, if you run pretty much all water + WW it will help lower the temps a decent amount.

I run 70/30 Water/coolant + Water Wetter in my street driven Honda Civic Si which is also modified with an I/H/E but also has a complete Engine Management System as well where i'm able to control the radiator functions and i've lowered the fans/thermostat activation point from the factory 220F to 200F to keep the engine a bit cooler.

Maybe your 50/50 mix is old and not functioning as well...
21.gif
 
I want to add that Changing just the radiator to a bigger unit won't necessarily solve your problem. If the Thermostat is still stock, it will open at the factory presets and all the larger (and most likely lighter) radiator will do is save you a few pounds at the front end.

A higher PSI radiator cap is also a must, to increase the boiling point of the water as well.

I'd upgrade the Thermostat / cap / fluid before investing in a bigger radiator.

The stock unit is more then capable of handling the duties of your pretty much stock engine. Now if it was Boosted and you were putting down 2 or even 3 times the factory HP output, sure, a bigger radiator is needed to handle all the extra heat caused by a Turbo or Supercharger which the factory Rad wasn't designed for.

just my
49.gif
on the matter
 
Originally Posted By: dparm
What kind of car are we talking?


^yea that. It helps to know what we're talking about here.
 
08 GK GT.
Car has 40k on it.
Coolant flushed at 35k
oil- Mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30
stock thermo
stock rad
upgraded rad cap

The coolant was flushed 200 miles before I tracked it, so there is a small possibility it's an air bubble working its way up. It hasn't overheated since.

I've also flushed my trans fluid from stock ATF to Vavoline syn blend ATF
A friend told me there's a small chance that the trans fluid which was changed to a heavier fluid could possibly be overheating the engine.
I have a B&M cooler sitting in my trunk, gonna install it tomorrow. Hopefully that fixes the problem.
My car isn't known for overheating. But tracking it stresses the [censored] out of everything from the engine to the trans to my mental focus when I see the stupid needle rising.
 
Last edited:
Hmmmmm.... the air bubble could likely be the cause but still unlikely, esp during track abuse where the pressure in the cooling system would have pushed the air out through the rad cap.

Also the fact that its been a good 5,000 miles, the air would be gone by now.

The tranny fluid causing the ENGINE to overheat is a joke. Lol.

It could very well just be the cooling system struggling to keep its cool under track duty. Maybe the rad upgrade isn't such a bad idea.

I'm still lost as to what car we're talking about here. haha
 
Whats a GK GT? Sorry not everyone knows body codes for all makes. Sounds like you have an air pocket that needs to be worked out.

How are those Bride seats?
 
"Also, how "unsafe" is it to put 1/4 quart of oil extra into the car to raise oil pressure?"

Dont! It wont increase your pressure but increase
windage, wich is a wery bad thing. Oil whipped with
air to something that looks like cream dont do any good at all.
 
Bride seats are fantastic. Completely worth the money.
It's a 2008 Tiburon GT.

I'm going to order the larger radiator today. Mishimoto on ebay is $225 and comes with a Mishimoto radiator cap. lol
Going to change my oil back to 10w-30 Mobil 1 Synthetic w/ OEM filter (gonna need to make it fit).
Going to try to obtain an oil cooler as well

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvzzM-guw8s
I overheated at 12 minutes in.

This was the 4th session. Sessions 1-3 were fine, temps were good.
After the third session we had lunch, I went out on a few touring sessions and I was the next group after touring, so my engine never had a chance to cool down either. I don't see why that made such a big difference since I didn't go over 70 on the touring sessions.
 
What am I doing wrong?
As mentioned earlier, car has 40k
First trans flush done at 30k. Put 2 track days on the NEW trans fluid and it was pitch black, started shifting hard. Put the Valvoline syn blend in and the fluid is as red as the day I put it in there.
The Coolant was supposed to be flushed at 30, but I did it at 35.
Tracked it once since the coolant, and it overheated.
Engine never overheated before the coolant flush, but then again I did hit limp mode because my trans got too hot. I didn't experience any trans problems after the new trans fluid was put in.
I'm guessing I need to flush my coolant again and use some better antifreeze/water combination.
What antifreeze do you guys recommend?
What's racing friendly?
 
Is there even such a thing as a racing "antifreeze"???
33.gif


Most racing apps run straight up water with maybe a hint of coolant for anti corrosion and water pump lube. (Water Wetter also works as lube)
 
Uh.. I'm a newb when it comes to cooling. I'm learning as I go.
I was guessing there are certain brands that did a better job than others. Like how some people prefer rotella compared to Mobil 1.
Sorry if I asked any newbish questions.

So a 30% antifreeze and 70% distilled water combination would be good?
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

TiGeo
  • Locked
Project Farm tests coolant boosters/water wetters
3 4 5
Replies
94
Views
4K
JHZR2
Hohn
Oil Filter Relocation for convenience and performance
2 3
Replies
46
Views
2K
Donald
C
Oil Filter Change W/O Oil change
2
Replies
20
Views
817
Lubener
Surfdog4
Which Subaru Filters have silicone ADBV?
Replies
10
Views
485
Surfdog4
R
2016 Mazda CX-5 2.5L 70.7 mi; Mobil Adv Full Synthetic 5w-30 2.3k mi
Replies
8
Views
406
researcher
Back
Top Bottom