Redline vs Mobil 1, any real difference?

I have driven Lamborghini and Ferrari cars for decades, been on the track and had friends who raced cars. Todays engine oils are far superior to those of the time when the Mondial was produced. You could run a grade or two thinner that will result in a cooler running engine. Cooler = less wear and tear.
The properties of viscosity hasn't changed ... they never will. A lower viscosity might reduce the oil temperature slightly, but it still could not provide enough film thickness to fully protect moving parts. Engines shouldn't have to fully rely on the sacrificial AF/AW tribofilm. Cooler oil doesn't mean less wear if the viscosity still isn't enough to keep parts from rubbing too much, it just means cooler oil.

What does give less wear is increased film thickness, all other factors held constant. If that wasn't the case, high performance engine makers wouldn't be putting thicker oil in the engines (like the Ford Boss, GT350, GT500 and regular Coyote Track Pack cars, etc) and instead just recommend they all use xW-20. Obviously Ford Performance says use a higher viscosity in applications like track use because even if the oil temperature runs hotter vs a thinner oil, the temperature increase does not negate the added wear protection the oil gives.



However, the best way to chose a viscosity grade is to look at your temperatures and pressures during your way of using the car. In my 575 Maranello owners manual, for example, they stated the target oil pressure should be 70 PSI at 6,000 RPM. This is regardless of the temperature and is used as a guide to what viscosity grade is to be used.
Only way to achieve that 70 PSI at 6,000 RPM spec for that specific engine is to have an operating viscosity that results in meeting that operational point. The pressure measurement at the location of the sensor directly correlates to the oil viscosity. What oil viscosity does Ferrari spec for that engine, and does that oil pressure spec at 6,000 RPM also call out an oil temperature?

Blanket recommendations are useless. Your choice is application dependent in your car the way you drive it.
Making a statement that makes it sound like it would be OK to run a thinner oil then recommended for track or stressed condition use because the oil temps will be lower is actually a bad blanket statement.
 
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OP, just curious what the owner's manual says? I'm sure the specification has been superseded many times over by now.

Can you post some pictures of this gem??

You have a vintage Ferrari and you are worried about the price of a few quarts of oil?
I agree! I would just run the Red Line and not think about it!

The Baldwin and UFI were are all I used when I had a 308GTS
I love the 308! Remember Christie Brinkley in Vacation? I think Tom Selleck drove it in Magnum PI too. Just an ultra classic car. Must have been hard to see it go.

Out of curiosity what’s a good ZDDP number for a flat tappet car?
I think all of these options being discussed will have PLENTY of phosphorus for your car.
 
I have redline 5w30 with a can of bg moa in my impreza right now, sees rev limiter every day and runs perfect, also had very good results with motul 300v in my boosted integra, (its rated for 5k miles/6 months under street use), gonna try 0w40 on the powerboost soon and will update everyone in the post I made.
 
OP, just curious what the owner's manual says? I'm sure the specification has been superseded many times over by now.
I believe the official Ferrari North American dealer network uses Pennzoil Platinum Racing 5w-40, same as they use for all the newer V8s. I also believe many independent Ferrari shops don't buy into that and use something in a 50 weight.

Testing my memory, but I think the original owner's manual recommended an Agip 10w-50 semi synthetic for V8 cars from the 1970s, to the mid 1980s. By the late 80s they started recommending 10w-40 and later 5w-40 full synthetic oils.
 
There is no summer / winter or slightly higher / lower HTHS. The serious approvals that one of the oils covers and the other doesn't—says it all. They are very different oils in terms of base oils and additive package. The good think is that one is not that expensive than the other which is the case with Mobil 1 vs Red Line.

Also you can see that both Red Line 10W-50 and 10W-40 are ACEA A3/B4 oils. For some reason Red Line recommends the 10W-40 for 1985 Ferrari Mondial Quattrovalvole. However 10 qts of Red Line will cost the OP $200 shipped and the Mobil 1 FS Euro 5W-50 will cost him about $80 with free shipping on eBay.

https://www.redlineoil.com/10w50-motor-oil

https://www.redlineoil.com/10w40-motor-oil
The datasheet plainly says the HTHS is higher and it doesn’t have approvals because no 15W would get an approval but it clearly has the same package as the FS Euro oils. Sorry but you’re just wrong.
 
but it clearly has the same package as the FS Euro oils. Sorry but you’re just wrong.
How do we know that? And if it's true—why the 15W-50 is part of the M1 vanilla oils and not of the Euro oils?
Look at the Mobil website and see how different oils are grouped.
 
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