That Redline will be fine. If I already had it, I'd use it. You're not under warranty, so you don't have to prove to anyone that you used LL-01 oil.
Redline Oil SL ?
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I guess that depends on your definition of "better".
Mobil 1 0w40 is certified and approved by a huge list of manufacturers, meaning it has been put through a significant amount of real-world testing in high performance applications by automotive manufacturers with huge budgets for just this purpose.
Redline, while regarded as an excellent product (by myself included) does not have any of these certs or approvals.
And you aren't going to learn much about which one is better from used oil analysis. However, I'm sure the criteria set by Mercedes, Porsche, Audi....etc might tell you about which oil is better if both were run through them.
Mobil 1 0w40 is certified and approved by a huge list of manufacturers, meaning it has been put through a significant amount of real-world testing in high performance applications by automotive manufacturers with huge budgets for just this purpose.
Redline, while regarded as an excellent product (by myself included) does not have any of these certs or approvals.
And you aren't going to learn much about which one is better from used oil analysis. However, I'm sure the criteria set by Mercedes, Porsche, Audi....etc might tell you about which oil is better if both were run through them.
Here's what Red Line 5w30 has going for it:
Great base oil POE/PAO chemistry.
Lots of moly and ZDDP.
No VIIs.
You've got now so why not use it but I wouldn't run it straight.
I'd pick up some Toyota 0W-20 for $5.70/L and mix it 50/50 with the Red Line. The blend it an oil I'd prefer to Mobil 1 0W-40 and the net cost is cheaper.
Great base oil POE/PAO chemistry.
Lots of moly and ZDDP.
No VIIs.
You've got now so why not use it but I wouldn't run it straight.
I'd pick up some Toyota 0W-20 for $5.70/L and mix it 50/50 with the Red Line. The blend it an oil I'd prefer to Mobil 1 0W-40 and the net cost is cheaper.
I like RL, but their weight recommendations are screwy. They recommend using one weight lower in place of what's required.
So, if you need 10w30, RL recommends using their 0w30, or if you need 20w50, use their 10w40.
Why not just classify the oils in their proper operating ranges? Less confusion equals more sales. Why confuse people?
So, if you need 10w30, RL recommends using their 0w30, or if you need 20w50, use their 10w40.
Why not just classify the oils in their proper operating ranges? Less confusion equals more sales. Why confuse people?
Originally Posted By: Hethaerto
Why not just classify the oils in their proper operating ranges? Less confusion equals more sales. Why confuse people?
They classify their oils according to SAE. They're not doing anything wrong. It just happens that their oils have rather high HT/HS, so that's why they recommend to step down a grade.
Think about GC 0w30 vs. Mobil 1 0w-30. They're both the same grade. Are they interchangeable? Not quite. One is for high performance Euro applications (high HT/HS). The other one is for fuel economy.
Why not just classify the oils in their proper operating ranges? Less confusion equals more sales. Why confuse people?
They classify their oils according to SAE. They're not doing anything wrong. It just happens that their oils have rather high HT/HS, so that's why they recommend to step down a grade.
Think about GC 0w30 vs. Mobil 1 0w-30. They're both the same grade. Are they interchangeable? Not quite. One is for high performance Euro applications (high HT/HS). The other one is for fuel economy.
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