Redline oil, is this the best i can get??

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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: rg200amp
while looking at a 300zx.


Was it a TT or an N/A? On the subjects of Lincols,someday I want to find a mint 1969 Mark III.


it was a TT, but they were replaced with aftermarket turbos.
 
Best oil for my car?

Talk about a question that can not be answered except by opinion and subjection.

Look if Redline feels good to you, use it. Is it API approved and of the proper spec? Any oil, and I do mean almost any oil that meets the spec will do dang near the same job.

I still stand by the idea that it is much more important to change your oil and filter at the proper interval. Further more, what's funny, the term proper interval is suject to opinion and conjecture.
 
I believe you have moved to a much better oil. Redline is ester based and has a lot of anti wear additives. It's better than the Royal Purple, whether RP is PAO or Group III. I would go Redline in an engine like that without a second thought. As for engine being clean, I would not worry about it. With Redline it won't build up any more crud and over time I suspect the ester will remove any existing buildup, but as Bruce says, the build up is not really an issue unless causing clogging lines, and that is not likely unless you ran garbage oil and over extended it, which I doubt. You will be fine. Unless you see a lot of below zero F weather 10w30 will be fine. Also remember to run longer OCIs and a UOA partway through would help determine how long you can run it. You have a great car and now you are going with a great oil.
 
Originally Posted By: TallPaul
I believe you have moved to a much better oil. Redline is ester based and has a lot of anti wear additives. It's better than the Royal Purple, whether RP is PAO or Group III. I would go Redline in an engine like that without a second thought. As for engine being clean, I would not worry about it. With Redline it won't build up any more crud and over time I suspect the ester will remove any existing buildup, but as Bruce says, the build up is not really an issue unless causing clogging lines, and that is not likely unless you ran garbage oil and over extended it, which I doubt. You will be fine. Unless you see a lot of below zero F weather 10w30 will be fine. Also remember to run longer OCIs and a UOA partway through would help determine how long you can run it. You have a great car and now you are going with a great oil.


Thanks for the input. I think RP is made of mainly group IV.
I am gonna run the 5w20 since the motor specs it, and the winter does stay below 10 degrees F most of the winter.

I think I am going to run the redline 5000 miles, change it(and get all the old RP out to), get a UOA, and see from them how long i should run the new fresh Redline and what my steady OCI should be.


whoever else use redline, id love to here your experence
 
Originally Posted By: simple_gifts
You should run it 3 times before getting a UOA to determine your OCI.


or mabey get a UOA all 3 times to see how the motor is adjusting to the Redline!!

AHHHHH! I have the Bitog Fever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

**Lol, Na your probly right, I will wait a couple OCI to do a UOA.
 
I have something of a fascination with Redline and have been using it in every appropriate application for a while now. I think it may be the best oil you can buy*, but IMO it is very difficult to determine that with any certainty, and of course it does depend somewhat on your application. Every engine is different.

As usual bruce381's post is worth considering seriously. He says every critical lube point is an area of boundary lubrication. That implies that the most important wear factors are film strength and anti-wear effectiveness (additives). Redline is first-rate in both and equal to or better than anything else available.

Redline does not usually give the best UOAs. The very best UOAs seem to come mainly from conventional oils like Pennzoil yellow bottle. Grp IIIs and PAOs seem to often allow just a bit more wear per mile, or at least that has been my impression after looking at lots of UOAs. Redline, on the other hand, is a very chemically aggressive oil - the POE molecules are heavily polar and attach themselves strongly to metal surfaces, and a lot of the metal you find in Redline UOAs is the result of the surfaces being chemically scrubbed, and not of wear. So, in my humble opinion, the only way to be sure that Redline is better - or not - is to use it for a long, long time and see what you think. UOA will not tell you.

Having said that, my UOA results with Redline have been excellent (exceptional recent circumstances excepted).

* Best being defined as limiting wear and extending engine life to the greatest possible degree with the appropriate OCI.
 
Does anyone have any professional experience with Redline? We often hear it's the best simply because they use a POE base. That doesn't cut it for me. I need more. :)
 
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Grp IIIs and PAOs seem to often allow just a bit more wear per mile

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a lot of the metal you find in Redline UOAs is the result of the surfaces being chemically scrubbed, and not of wear.

You know this how? What about the esters that are in Amsoil and other oils? There are plenty of esters to cover the entire surface of the engine so shouldn't they have the same "aggressiveness"?
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Quote:
Grp IIIs and PAOs seem to often allow just a bit more wear per mile

smirk2.gif

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a lot of the metal you find in Redline UOAs is the result of the surfaces being chemically scrubbed, and not of wear.

You know this how? What about the esters that are in Amsoil and other oils? There are plenty of esters to cover the entire surface of the engine so shouldn't they have the same "aggressiveness"?


Just chat.
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or at least that has been my impression after looking at lots of UOAs
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
You know this how?

Tempest, I've talked about this so many times here I can't believe you've missed it, or maybe you're just picking this particular time to jump in. Anyway fair enough:

Conventional vs. synthetic wear. Like a lot of people I was a confirmed synthetic user before finding this site. However, it didn't take me all that long to figure out that going by UOAs, synthetics didn't seem to offer any advantages over conventionals. Instead, the more I looked at UOAs, the more I had to admit that often it seemed that the best, those with really exceptionally low wear, often occurred with conventional oils. Data points to consider:

- The makers of synthetic oils do not generally claim any wear benefits for their products. Surely if wear benefits existed, they would claim them. Could it be that public perception has erroneously equated synthetics with reduced wear due to broad public awareness of synthetics' other benefits? I think so.

- Most of the exceptionally high mileage engines I have heard of, such as the recent 1,000,000 mile Chevy, seem to have been run on conventionals. No doubt the population of conventional-fed engines is higher, especially among older vehicles, but this does corroborate my opinion and consequently I offer it as something to consider.

- Oils get their ability to attach to metals from polarity. As oils are more highly refined they become "saturated," making them both more stable and less polar. PAOs are fully saturated and non-polar, and need to be mixed with lower-group or Grp V oils to perform properly. Since wear peformance equates largely with boundary lubrication, and boundary lubrication depends largely on film strength, it seems reasonable to consider that there might be a trade-off in wear performance as one goes up the scale from basic conventionals to PAOs, and that it might be difficult to completely correct for that trade-off via improved anti-wear and/or the blending of some polar components into the oil.

- Very frequently, in the UOA section, an engine that has a long history of UOAs, in which it has been switched between conventionals and synthetics, will actually show significantly better wear results (per mile) with the conventional. Pointing this out always results in the obvious counterpoint that it is only one data point and far from scientifically significant in any given case - but it seems to happen so often that I do personally believe it is, overall, indicative of a pattern. Try to find examples of the opposite - reduced wear when switching to a synthetic - and you will find it difficult.

It is clear to me that synthetics can be blended to offer excellent performance, and the difference if there is one is probably inconsequential over the ordinary lifespan of an engine. However, I do believe, personally, that conventionals, when changed at appropriate intervals, have at least a slight edge in wear performance over synthetics. I've said this many times before. I do not have sufficient confidence in this to state it as a matter of fact, and so I always state it as a matter of opinion.

As to Redline's metals being the results of chemical action rather than wear, this too has been said many times here, by people other than myself and people much more knowledgeable than myself, and I can not claim it as my own insight. I believe it, and I repeat it as a generally accepted matter of understanding. I can support it, however, at least in general terms:

Consider again the polarity issue. If you see a continuum between polar conventionals and non-polar PAOs, POEs exist outside of that continuum, having both the stability of PAOs (different, better in some ways, worse in others, but excellent overall) and a high degree of polarity. Much more polarity than conventionals. They do not need to be mixed with anything else for performance as a lubricant, although they usually are for other reasons, and Redline uses some PAOs, nobody knows how much, in their oils.

Yes, of course any PAO that is blended with POEs will gain the advantages of the POEs, to some degree, and it also makes sense that it would gain some of the "cleaning" characteristics of an oil like Redline, and that consequently some of the observed wear from certain synthetics would be attributable to this the same way it is with Redline. However, it is hard enough (impossible?) to figure out to what degree this is the case with Redline, which we can be confident is a majority-POE oil - it is that much harder still with an oil where we do not have any idea of the POE content, or even if it has any POE at all, as it might instead have been blended using lower-group oils for its polar content. If the Redline issue is sort of like a single equation with two variables, where we have to make educated guesses about one variable in order to determine the result for another, doing so for an oil where we have no idea of the mix is rather like having yet another, third, variable to guess at. Is some of the "wear" from cleaning, or is it due to an oil having been blended more for stability and long drains than for the best possible wear performance?

One valuable hint, it seems to me, is to look at an oil's measured film strength as shown by HTHS results. HTHS is often said in technical articles and the like to be the best overall correlant to wear protection in an oil, which makes sense as it is a measure of the oil's ability to cling to the metal surfaces under duress. If one accepts that this clinging ability is likely to work both ways, both attaching the oil to the metal and also giving the oil the ability to pull metal away from engine surfaces, then one might conclude that those oils with the highest HTHS will also likely show the largest degrees of "cleaning" in an engine - that is, of inflated metals numbers in UOA that do not represent actual wear. Redline, in all grades, has just about the highest HTHS values of any oil available, often by large margins.

Some other premium synthetics, such as some of Amsoil's products, also have relatively high HTHS, and it would be reasonable I think to assume that they are probably blended with significant proportions of high-quality polar base components such as POEs, and that their UOA results are similarly artificially inflated, though probably by a lesser degree than Redlines'.

My tendency is to gravitate either to the obvious choice of low-cost, excellent-performing conventionals, which so often show outstanding UOA results, or to Redline, with its very high-POE, high-HTHS qualities, as the two best possibilities when looking for the lowest-wearing oil.

Note, by the way, that I have never said that Redline is the best oil or that it produces the lowest wear, only that as far as I can tell it might be the best oil. Again, I don't have the confidence in that conclusion to state it as a fact, or even as a solid matter of opinion. At least I am putting my money where my mouth is by using it, by experimenting, by doing UOAs, and so on.
 
glennc:

It's funny you make no mention of the "elevated iron" that shows in some of the Mobil 1 UOA's being attributed to this condition....???
 
The Iron in M1 could be from any number of things. I'm on record, if you want to check, as having said that I do not think it is a problem with the oil. However, if Valvoline's claims of 4x reduced wear compared to M1 are true, I might have been wrong about that. In any case, it doesn't fit into my above argument in any obvious way so there was no reason to mention it.

I'm not a huge M1 fan. I am a Redline fan. Those are my biases but I try to keep them out of my comments as much as possible. I'm also a fan of cheap conventionals. What I am not, however, is trying to hide anything, and I'd appreciate it if you would not imply that I am.
 
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Originally Posted By: glennc
The Iron in M1 could be from any number of things. I'm on record, if you want to check, as having said that I do not think it is a problem with the oil. However, if Valvoline's claims of 4x reduced wear compared to M1 are true, I might have been wrong about that. In any case, it doesn't fit into my above argument in any obvious way so there was no reason to mention it.

I'm not a huge M1 fan. I am a Redline fan. Those are my biases but I try to keep them out of my comments as much as possible. I'm also a fan of cheap conventionals. What I am not, however, is trying to hide anything, and I'd appreciate it if you would not imply that I am.



I was not implying that you hid it. Rather I found it odd that you didn't mention it, given the beating-over that the topic of the M1 iron numbers gets on this site.
 
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Tempest, I've talked about this so many times here I can't believe you've missed it,

Nope, seen it all before and it is still all opinion. Someone went to great extent a while back to crunch numbers on the syn. vs. conventional and there were no solid findings. More than one of the lube engineers on this board have stated that you cannot tell the quality of a finished motor oil based on the base oil. These people have seen more testing of such things than nearly everyone else on the board combined.

And, you continue to neglect the fact that additives (AW, anti-corrosion, etc.) are far more polar than any base oil. How much ester is needed to get the "superior film strength" effect? Why are racing oils formulated with PAO? Why has TomNJ stated that high end esters are simply not needed in a PCMO? Bruce's highly additized 0W10 (with a LOW HTST) produced a very good UOA in a 40 grade spec. engine and I believe the base oil was PAO.

You have pointed to Bruce's post about boundary conditions. This the realm of AW additives that are far more polar than any base oil, and the base oil only comes into play seriously when the wedge has been formed. This only occurs on parts moving sufficiently fast. Slow moving parts (such as at start up and shut down) do not benefit significantly from "film strength".

I'm sorry, but I don't see your argument.
 
I tend to agree with Tempest. Redline's chemist told me that depending on what you are after (high temp stability/Hp/Cold flow/long drains etc.), you have to balance or compromise certain aspects of a formulation to meet those goals.

Redline formulates their oils for maximum protection at high temperatures and high engine loads. In a normal passenger car, you may never see the benefits of an oil like Redline. This can be said for Mobil 1 and Amsoil too. It just depends what your formulating goals are. Therefore a lot of us don't need and won't see the benefits of synthetic oils.

On the flip side, Redline's formulation just may not be as good as other oils. With oil analysis being a limited tool, there is not much else you can do unless you want to tear down your engine every few months.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
I tend to agree with Tempest. Redline's chemist told me that depending on what you are after (high temp stability/Hp/Cold flow/long drains etc.), you have to balance or compromise certain aspects of a formulation to meet those goals.

Redline formulates their oils for maximum protection at high temperatures and high engine loads. In a normal passenger car, you may never see the benefits of an oil like Redline. This can be said for Mobil 1 and Amsoil too. It just depends what your formulating goals are. Therefore a lot of us don't need and won't see the benefits of synthetic oils.

On the flip side, Redline's formulation just may not be as good as other oils. With oil analysis being a limited tool, there is not much else you can do unless you want to tear down your engine every few months.


This made my think of an old post by Barkerman, which I thought was illuminating. I put a lot of weight in my personal experiences of running a car a very long time on one particular oil. Also I put a lot of weight in anecdotal evidence from sources I think are credible (such as Barkerman).

None of this anecdotal evidence has the technical fortitude of what you guys are talking about and you are free to disregard it if you wish. My own experience with redline on daily driver saabs mirrors those of Barkerman's comments. I just post it here fyi.

"Red Line is a good daily driver oil and it just might make your engine last longer. We have several 300k+ cars around here that use nothing but Red Line and it's not that they are over 300k but that they are over 300k with no internal mechanical work and to a boroscope look like new inside. I know a few examples don't prove a point but they are a good indicator. One fellow delivers some kind of radio-active isotopes with his 78 Toyota pickup and has 510k miles on Red Line with nothing more than regular maintenance and about 4 water pumps. He also uses Frantz oil and fuel filters and a spin-on coolant filter with an anode. He is on the original camshaft and valves. I've done a compression check and it's withing 5% of new specs and the spread from high to low is 8psi. You can still see the hone marks at the bottom of the cylinders and there is only a cosmetic ridge at the top of the cylinders. Granted this series of Toyota 4 bangers is considered to be a good engine I think that Red Line is performing well. He started with Castrol 10w-30 with the new truck and a few years later after hanging around our shop switched to Red Line 10-30 and has graduated up to 20w-50 a couple of years ago. His oil consumption is 1 quart in 5k miles. Granted he is a careful driver because of his cargo and LA has no weather but I think he is doing well. He recently dropped a bundle in rebuilding the suspension front and back, complete brake job and replaced all the flexible brake lines, master cylinder, rear wheel cylinders and new calipers, including his second tranny rebuild for bearings and seals, no other hard parts also using Red Line MTL. He also had the seals replaced in the rear end and uses Red Line gear lube and uses that red colored Red Line CV2 grease in the grease fittings (yes it has fittings you grease with a hand gun). All this was his answer to the question of buying a new pickup or keeping the old one. I think it can be said that he likes the old one. The company he works for footed the bill for a complete repaint and upholstery job. We talked Yokohama into making him a screaming deal on some new Avid TRZ's. His only problem is that we can expect a letter from Congress about his disregard for the economy by not just junking his pickup and buying a new one. He is hoping that the new sound system including a CD player for his books on CD will be useful in his defense. But to those that think Red Line is only good for racing we think it performs well for commuting but is an expensive choice. Sorry for running on I just though this is an unusual case and you might be interested."
 
I remember that post and it was one of many opinions that convinced me to give Redline a serious shot in my cars despite the expense.

I don't particularly want to come across as a Redline advocate, because my own opinion is not fully formed yet. I think there is a fair chance that the way Redline makes an oil - basically a high quality POE basestock with a high quality add pack - really does produce a superior product, for those who are willing to pay the price. Unfortunately it's just very difficult to say for sure. I wish some independent entity would just do a bunch of actual controlled tests, similar to what Valvoline claims to have done, in real engines, with teardowns to determine actual wear. Even then people would question the results, as they have done with the Consumer Reports taxicab testing, but it would at least give us some objective data that does not rely on manufacturer claims or UOA results or anecdotal observations.

If nothing else, I do believe that the high HTHS and fortified AW of Redline oils can be confidently assumed to provide a premium level of protection within a given grade. Probably, but not certainly, above that of comparable oils.
 
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