Red Line 5w20, 20K miles, VW Golf 1.9L TDI ALH

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Following along for the 'ride'... Thanks for keeping people in the loop. All the best. I just went to T5 in the Cummins Ram for ~8000 kms. Well, I hedged my bets & ran two jugs of T5 & 1 jug of T6... Three jugs of T5 are waiting in the wings. Even singing the same tune for the bike. A jug of T5 plus a litre of old 'red cap' that was collecting dust. My oil choices are getting thinner faster than what is supposed to be keeping the crown of my head warm...

John.
 
Originally Posted By: Roadkingnc
Z-max, I had a 1.9L ford engine that was smoking due to sticking rings. A few doses of z_max and that car never did smoke again but dropped a valve seat out of the head and self destructed. The seats coming loose is a known concern with these engines and happened without warning. Also put in my bikes fuel about 2 times a year, and I work for the guy that owns z-max.


I thought this forum tended to have a lot of members who were well read and that if they owned a vehicle would read the engine manual. You will probably find it says "DON'T USE OIL ADDITIVES" and this UOA is interesting because the result after using Z MAX is worse, the Pb increase is particularly interesting. Perhaps a copy should be sent with the empty bottle and a request for a refund.
I'm amazed by how many folks in the US use snake oil additives, as although they are manufactured and available in Germany very few folks use them in Germany, although the culture here does mean folks read their car or engine manuals and follow instructions more.
 
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Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: Roadkingnc
Z-max, I had a 1.9L ford engine that was smoking due to sticking rings. A few doses of z_max and that car never did smoke again but dropped a valve seat out of the head and self destructed. The seats coming loose is a known concern with these engines and happened without warning. Also put in my bikes fuel about 2 times a year, and I work for the guy that owns z-max.


I thought this forum tended to have a lot of members who were well read and that if they owned a vehicle would read the engine manual. You will probably find it says "DON'T USE OIL ADDITIVES" and this UOA is interesting because the result after using Z MAX is worse, the Pb increase is particularly interesting. Perhaps a copy should be sent with the empty bottle and a request for a refund.
I'm amazed by how many folks in the US use snake oil additives, as although they are manufactured and available in Germany very few folks use them in Germany, although the culture here does mean folks read their car or engine manuals and follow instructions more.


The passive aggressive "illiterate uneducated Americans" statements really don't have a place here in this thread where somebody is pushing the limits of his machine through validation every step of the way.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
this UOA is interesting because the result after using Z MAX is worse, the Pb increase is particularly interesting.


What make you think the lead is from using Z-Max and not from using the the thin Red Line? Or may be it is from the cleaning properties of either the Red Line or the Z-Max. Or is it from the sustained high speed driving from Phoenix-Minneapolis in the winter?
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: Roadkingnc
Z-max, I had a 1.9L ford engine that was smoking due to sticking rings. A few doses of z_max and that car never did smoke again but dropped a valve seat out of the head and self destructed. The seats coming loose is a known concern with these engines and happened without warning. Also put in my bikes fuel about 2 times a year, and I work for the guy that owns z-max.


I thought this forum tended to have a lot of members who were well read and that if they owned a vehicle would read the engine manual. You will probably find it says "DON'T USE OIL ADDITIVES" and this UOA is interesting because the result after using Z MAX is worse, the Pb increase is particularly interesting. Perhaps a copy should be sent with the empty bottle and a request for a refund.
I'm amazed by how many folks in the US use snake oil additives, as although they are manufactured and available in Germany very few folks use them in Germany, although the culture here does mean folks read their car or engine manuals and follow instructions more.


Do your owners manuals say no additives,yet I'm sure I've read that you like the liqui-moly stuff.
Your hypocrisy knows no bounds. And your opinion meaningless
 
I took some time off for Thanksgiving and my elk hunt so haven't used the car for a couple of weeks. Should have the UOA by the end of this month.
 
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Originally Posted By: skyship

I thought this forum tended to have a lot of members who were well read and that if they owned a vehicle would read the engine manual. You will probably find it says "DON'T USE OIL ADDITIVES" and this UOA is interesting because the result after using Z MAX is worse, the Pb increase is particularly interesting. Perhaps a copy should be sent with the empty bottle and a request for a refund.
I'm amazed by how many folks in the US use snake oil additives, as although they are manufactured and available in Germany very few folks use them in Germany, although the culture here does mean folks read their car or engine manuals and follow instructions more.


Technically, zmax isn't an oil additive by definition since it doesn't alter the chemical behavior of the oil. Zmax also backed up all their claims with independent testing and I believe it stood even in the court of law. I haven't used zmax, but they have real science to backup their claims.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: Roadkingnc
Z-max, I had a 1.9L ford engine that was smoking due to sticking rings. A few doses of z_max and that car never did smoke again but dropped a valve seat out of the head and self destructed. The seats coming loose is a known concern with these engines and happened without warning. Also put in my bikes fuel about 2 times a year, and I work for the guy that owns z-max.


I thought this forum tended to have a lot of members who were well read and that if they owned a vehicle would read the engine manual. You will probably find it says "DON'T USE OIL ADDITIVES" and this UOA is interesting because the result after using Z MAX is worse, the Pb increase is particularly interesting. Perhaps a copy should be sent with the empty bottle and a request for a refund.
I'm amazed by how many folks in the US use snake oil additives, as although they are manufactured and available in Germany very few folks use them in Germany, although the culture here does mean folks read their car or engine manuals and follow instructions more.


Do your owners manuals say no additives,yet I'm sure I've read that you like the liqui-moly stuff.
Your hypocrisy knows no bounds. And your opinion meaningless


I use Liqui Moly oils, not their additives apart from a one time use of a flush before oil change and I don't like that side of their operation, although many engine oil companies including Amsoil make additives (Similar at idle only flush), simply because they make a profit.
Regardless of the advertising hype, oil additives are only of use if you have a clearly defined engine problem that is beyond economic repair, like cam shaft oil leaks with an old car or terminal phase bearing rattles. Then it is worth trying a snake oil from a major brand company if you can't find an HM oil that already has the required additive included.
In the US I would guess 90% of snake oil is sold to folks who don't need them and the UOA results like this one show that 90% of those cases results in a negative effect or no effect. 9% of the other users of snake oil would get a safer better result using a different oil.
I'm in the 90% category, because after using a flush it turned out my engine didn't have any sludge issues anyway.

My main reason for using LM oils is that they are about 30% cheaper in Germany than Castrol. If I was in the US, I would use Castrol, Mobil, Shell or possibly Valvoline, but I would select the oil partly based on EU web site information due to the thin oil game the US car companies are playing.

For the record I doubt if that high Pb figure is due to the detergents cleaning out sludge. Pb stays in the oil and I have not seen it spike when even strong solvents have been used, so it is either a particle streak or a genuine wear figure, possibly caused by the use of too low a viscosity oil combined with the additive. The low viscosity oil would not cause a sudden increase in Pb without Fe and Cr, so my vote is for the culprit being snake oil damaging the layer of Zinc or Moly deposited on the main bearings, or simply interfering with the oils add pack.
The next UOA will be interesting if no additives are used, although mixing different products does confuse the results, as a change to an 0/30 or better oil filter might improve the results.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship


For the record I doubt if that high Pb figure is due to the detergents cleaning out sludge. Pb stays in the oil and I have not seen it spike when even strong solvents have been used, so it is either a particle streak or a genuine wear figure, possibly caused by the use of too low a viscosity oil combined with the additive. The low viscosity oil would not cause a sudden increase in Pb without Fe and Cr, so my vote is for the culprit being snake oil damaging the layer of Zinc or Moly deposited on the main bearings, or simply interfering with the oils add pack.
The next UOA will be interesting if no additives are used, although mixing different products does confuse the results, as a change to an 0/30 or better oil filter might improve the results.


Another word, you are just guessing like everyone else where the lead came from and why. Changing to 0w30 does not improve the results because I was looking for less fuel burn and NOT less engine wear. So tell me, how long would an engine last with 14ppm of Pb for every 20K OCI and why would I care? I got 600 more miles to 275K miles and another UOA, probably end of next week.

Oh yeah, last I checked ZMAX is the only FAA approved oil additive for aircraft piston engine. Don't doubt what you don't understand or can't afford (shipping to Germany is very high).

http://www.zmax.com/micro_lubricant/aviation/

http://www.avblend.com/faa/faa.html

http://www.avblend.com/images/faa/faa.pdf
 
Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Originally Posted By: skyship


For the record I doubt if that high Pb figure is due to the detergents cleaning out sludge. Pb stays in the oil and I have not seen it spike when even strong solvents have been used, so it is either a particle streak or a genuine wear figure, possibly caused by the use of too low a viscosity oil combined with the additive. The low viscosity oil would not cause a sudden increase in Pb without Fe and Cr, so my vote is for the culprit being snake oil damaging the layer of Zinc or Moly deposited on the main bearings, or simply interfering with the oils add pack.
The next UOA will be interesting if no additives are used, although mixing different products does confuse the results, as a change to an 0/30 or better oil filter might improve the results.


Another word, you are just guessing like everyone else where the lead came from and why. Changing to 0w30 does not improve the results because I was looking for less fuel burn and NOT less engine wear. So tell me, how long would an engine last with 14ppm of Pb for every 20K OCI and why would I care? I got 600 more miles to 275K miles and another UOA, probably end of next week.

Oh yeah, last I checked ZMAX is the only FAA approved oil additive for aircraft piston engine. Don't doubt what you don't understand or can't afford (shipping to Germany is very high).

http://www.zmax.com/micro_lubricant/aviation/

http://www.avblend.com/faa/faa.html

http://www.avblend.com/images/faa/faa.pdf


So is your Golf fitted with an low compression aero engine??
You might want to try some jet engine turbine oil additives next!
 
If you want low fuel burn, just join a German VW forum and ask about the green extremists, as the last time I heard what they were using it was a straight 5 grade (I presume it's a light machine oil) with LM Ceretec and some type of Zinc additive from a VW lab.
Not sure how short their OCI is, or how bad their oil consumption and leaks are.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship
If you want low fuel burn, just join a German VW forum and ask about the green extremists, as the last time I heard what they were using it was a straight 5 grade (I presume it's a light machine oil) with LM Ceretec and some type of Zinc additive from a VW lab.
Not sure how short their OCI is, or how bad their oil consumption and leaks are.


Why would I care about German VW green extremists? If you have tried to read this entire thread instead of giving pointless advises, you would have noticed that I am currently running 0W5 racing oil in my GOLF diesel with Zmax in the fuel (not in the oil). I got no leak and no abnormal oil consumption (a little less actually) in almost 25K miles. Mileage is 61mpg on the highway at 55-65mph. UOA is coming, wait for it.

Not all piston aircraft engines are low compression engines hence the 100 octane LL gas. There is no jet engine turbine oil additive available anywhere from anyone. I work in the aviation industries so what else would you like to learn today?
 
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Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Originally Posted By: skyship
If you want low fuel burn, just join a German VW forum and ask about the green extremists, as the last time I heard what they were using it was a straight 5 grade (I presume it's a light machine oil) with LM Ceretec and some type of Zinc additive from a VW lab.
Not sure how short their OCI is, or how bad their oil consumption and leaks are.


Why would I care about German VW green extremists? If you have tried to read this entire thread instead of giving pointless advises, you would have noticed that I am currently running 0W5 racing oil in my GOLF diesel with Zmax in the fuel (not in the oil). I got no leak and no abnormal oil consumption (a little less actually) in almost 25K miles. Mileage is 61mpg on the highway at 55-65mph. UOA is coming, wait for it.

Not all piston aircraft engines are low compression engines hence the 100 octane LL gas. There is no jet engine turbine oil additive available anywhere from anyone. I work in the aviation industries so what else would you like to learn today?


The thread title did say Red Line 5w20, which has got more folks than just myself confused, as very few forum members read every post in a long thread.
If you are using Z max in the fuel that's fine as some fuel additives do work if the fuel quality is poor or the injection system gummed up. I have my doubts about any in cylinder effects as no truly independent lab has demonstrated significant effects.
It might help as regards folks like myself who don't read every post in long threads to list fuel additives in a manner that doesn't give the impression they are oil additives. In fact there is no need to list them in reality because the interest is in the oil and UOA results.
When posting in a public forum it is normal to offer more general advice, otherwise folks new to the wonderful world of UOA or extended OCI's will go off thinking the answer for their new Golf is Redline 5/20 and 20K mile OCI's with a can of fuel additive in the oil.
I don't think your experiment will prove the case in favor of thin oils to save fuel without damaging the main block too badly because about two thirds of engine wear results from driver style considerations, like a big right boot and average useage like time in traffic or highway. Difficult to know what to compare any final set of results to, unless a second car was doing the same routes with the same driver techniques, but using a different more normal oil and OCI.
 
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I forgot to add that there are plenty of turbine oil additives available, just check Google and some are even sold in snake oil cans with false FAA approvals in the 3rd world.
http://www.aftonchemical.com/SOLUTIONS/INDUSADD/Pages/Turbine.aspx
Product Spotlights HiTEC 2571 Rust and Oxidation Inhibitor
Fully formulated additive for high performance turbine oils; provides excellent rust and oxidation control; strong filterability
HiTEC 2607 Ashless Rust & Oxidation Inhibitor
Formulated to meet the demands of modern turbines; excellent demulsification and antifoam properties


Hydraulic fluid additives are less common, but also exist, although the only approved ones are just for noise reduction when the bearings are nearly worn out.
I do believe in trying direct feed fuel injection cleaners IF your UOA starts to show fuel contamination, although they won't help if the problem is worn tips.
 
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Originally Posted By: skyship

The thread title did say Red Line 5w20, which has got more folks than just myself confused, as very few forum members read every post in a long thread.


The first post is about the UOA of Redline 5W20 in my car so what is your confusion? I used ZMAX with the 5W20 in the oil and in the fuel as stated also. READ THE WHOLE THREAD AND NOT SOME RANDOM POSTS. Apparently you are the only one that is confused.

Originally Posted By: skyship

I forgot to add that there are plenty of turbine oil additives available, just check Google and some are even sold in snake oil cans with false FAA approvals in the 3rd world.


Why would any one care about non-FAA approved additives in their aircraft engines? Afton Chemical sells jet turbine additives to be used in the formulation of jet oil, not as a standalone additive to be used by the end consumers. Read the recommended dosage and performance profiles where it states to be formulated with base oils.
 
Originally Posted By: skyship

It might help as regards folks like myself who don't read every post in long threads to list fuel additives in a manner that doesn't give the impression they are oil additives. In fact there is no need to list them in reality because the interest is in the oil and UOA results.
When posting in a public forum it is normal to offer more general advice, otherwise folks new to the wonderful world of UOA or extended OCI's will go off thinking the answer for their new Golf is Redline 5/20 and 20K mile OCI's with a can of fuel additive in the oil.


There is no oil nor UOA nor additives that will cure stupidity. So, if someone decides to follow the internet information blindly instead of the owner manual then they deserve to have their engines seized up. No where did I say what I am doing is standard practice nor advisable. IT IS FYI ONLY. Sheeshhhh!!!
 
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
20wt oils are not intended for diesel use, and lack of dispersant package to handle soot may cause more abrasive wear of soft metals in tight bearing areas.

Just a thought... Its a lot of miles and a little soot (bit that is because of the bypass, it may still be in there at some point), so its not going to make a hige effect, but youre not seeing a huge effect. You really went 19k on that oil??!?

Interesting little test!


Apparently the new Jaguar diesels (and the new 5.0 v8s) are specced for 5w20, not easy find details as not listed on any of the oil makers websites.

I found that out by accident whilst looking at what 5w20 products they have on Opieoils.

The oil is Motul Specific 925B 5w20.

It is also specced for A5/B5 if you don't have an engine needing Ford oil spec.
 
Originally Posted By: zanzabar
+1 for AZ. I really wish skyship would post less often.

Even better would be not at all.
He freely admits he didn't read the whole thread yet feels the need to comment when the thread has progressed beyond the stated title.
And he implies that Americans are dumb?
Back to topic.
Op. I applaud you for this testing. As you can see many are horrified and expect your engine to dissolve anytime now. Which obviously it hasn't.
Do you know what a rebuild or new engine will cost? Be ause at 700 a year in fuel savings if the engine dissolves in 5 years and the cost is under 3500 your up,and every year it lasts after the break even point on a new motor you get ahead ever further. 3500 is hypothetical,I freely admit I don't know what it will cost.
How long do these engines last using the factory specified oil? I suspect with your commute you will get to the average mileage soon enough.
Anyways I thank you for starting this thread and posting your results. It's very educational,to me anyways.
I like how you state very early in the thread that mileage is your primary goal,not engine longevity,yet many members insist on informing you your engine will disolve,which you have written on more than a few occasions you don't care about.
I'm going to subscribe to this thread,once I figure out how.
Thank you for the info. I find it enlightening
 
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