A 10w30 synthetic will be as close to a sae 30 as I would want to come. Defy comes in 10w30 and is a blend.
Also Supertech synthetic has a 10w30.
Also Supertech synthetic has a 10w30.
Recommended oil for 1975 Cadillac Eldorado 500 CID
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
A 10w30 synthetic will be as close to a sae 30 as I would want to come. Defy comes in 10w30 and is a blend.
Also Supertech synthetic has a 10w30.
If you want 10w30 synthetic in a variety of types, I find my local Walmart has at least 5 types.
A 10w30 synthetic will be as close to a sae 30 as I would want to come. Defy comes in 10w30 and is a blend.
Also Supertech synthetic has a 10w30.
If you want 10w30 synthetic in a variety of types, I find my local Walmart has at least 5 types.
Originally Posted By: Lex94
I said 5w30 is obsolete.
10w-30 has essentially been obsolete for twenty years. Move up here for a winter, leave your vehicle outside, and let me know how obsolete 5w-30 is.
I said 5w30 is obsolete.
10w-30 has essentially been obsolete for twenty years. Move up here for a winter, leave your vehicle outside, and let me know how obsolete 5w-30 is.
Originally Posted By: Lex94
The GF-5 10w30 would perform just as well as the 5w30 but without heavy dose of polymers added...I would use a 5w20 up there since 5w30 is obsolete.
5w30 is still specified by plenty of new car manufacturers which makes what you say just plain wrong.
For a grade to be considered obsolete it would have to have no application for a new vehicle.
Not to mention how easy it is to get 15+ years of service out of used cars that most use this grade.
The GF-5 10w30 would perform just as well as the 5w30 but without heavy dose of polymers added...I would use a 5w20 up there since 5w30 is obsolete.
5w30 is still specified by plenty of new car manufacturers which makes what you say just plain wrong.
For a grade to be considered obsolete it would have to have no application for a new vehicle.
Not to mention how easy it is to get 15+ years of service out of used cars that most use this grade.
Originally Posted By: Lex94
The GF-5 10w30 would perform just as well as the 5w30 but without heavy dose of polymers added...I would use a 5w20 up there since 5w30 is obsolete.
5w-30 is a current specified grade, and relatively widely. How often does one see a 10w-30 currently specified, outside of diesel applications? Of course, that's a completely different lube than a GF-5 10w-30. Now, which one is obsolete again?
The GF-5 10w30 would perform just as well as the 5w30 but without heavy dose of polymers added...I would use a 5w20 up there since 5w30 is obsolete.
5w-30 is a current specified grade, and relatively widely. How often does one see a 10w-30 currently specified, outside of diesel applications? Of course, that's a completely different lube than a GF-5 10w-30. Now, which one is obsolete again?
20W-50 would lubricate those flat bottom lifters and protect the cam lobes. It would also keep those same hydraulic lifters pumped up. Y'all try running 5W-30 in that vintage iron and you're gonna get clickity clack from the lifters bleeding out.
Its a almost a 40 year old car. It has flat tappets so it needs zinc. I'd run 5w40 rotella and be done with it.
The small filter does not make sense. The Fram PH25; Delco PH24; Wix51258, etc are good sized filters. These filters fit most of the Cadillac, Oldsmobile, Buick and Pontiac V8s from about 1965 through 1976.The filters were much narrower starting in 1977 through 1990 for the BOP & Cadillac V8 engines. Since you may be dealing with incompetence at your local parts store, remember that the Chevrolet V8s of a given year use a totally different filter never shared with other GM divisions' engines. A lot of young kids at the parts counters now do not understand this.
For oils, the 5W-40 for winter and the 15W40 for summer in MA would be good as previously suggested. 10W-40 would be my low cost preference for year round- 20W-50 for summer only. If a 10W-30 is chosen, better check the zinc levels for the flat-tappet camshaft first. There are a few diesel oils still available with elevated zinc levels which would be ideal. The 5W-40 oils might be a best choice for year round since they tend to pass the cold viscometer test just well as a 5W-30 oil. 5W-30 is not a suitable summer oil for the Cadillac 472-500 engines designed for a basic 10W-40 oil grade. If the car will be outside overnight in winter, the 5W-40 is superior technology as it is only slightly thinner in hot temp viscosity testing vs 10W40 and should be excellent for pumping up the lifters. With the excellent stock oiling system in this engine and 5W-40 synthetic, all should be good. 0W-40 would be a little pricey for this six QT sump. Add dual exhaust & Enjoy your nice car. Upgrade the cam, lifters & intake and really improve things.
Dr. Olds
1994 Intrepid ES 3.5 24v Amsoil Signature Series 10W30
1969 Olds Toronado 455 HO NOS Rotella 15W-40
1975 Olds Cutlass 455 " " " " "
& more cars.
For oils, the 5W-40 for winter and the 15W40 for summer in MA would be good as previously suggested. 10W-40 would be my low cost preference for year round- 20W-50 for summer only. If a 10W-30 is chosen, better check the zinc levels for the flat-tappet camshaft first. There are a few diesel oils still available with elevated zinc levels which would be ideal. The 5W-40 oils might be a best choice for year round since they tend to pass the cold viscometer test just well as a 5W-30 oil. 5W-30 is not a suitable summer oil for the Cadillac 472-500 engines designed for a basic 10W-40 oil grade. If the car will be outside overnight in winter, the 5W-40 is superior technology as it is only slightly thinner in hot temp viscosity testing vs 10W40 and should be excellent for pumping up the lifters. With the excellent stock oiling system in this engine and 5W-40 synthetic, all should be good. 0W-40 would be a little pricey for this six QT sump. Add dual exhaust & Enjoy your nice car. Upgrade the cam, lifters & intake and really improve things.
Dr. Olds
1994 Intrepid ES 3.5 24v Amsoil Signature Series 10W30
1969 Olds Toronado 455 HO NOS Rotella 15W-40
1975 Olds Cutlass 455 " " " " "
& more cars.
Originally Posted By: spasm3
It has flat tappets so it needs zinc.
This is a very incomplete statement.
It has flat tappets so it needs zinc.
This is a very incomplete statement.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Lex94
Sooo...Are 5w30 oils shear stable in 2014?
Who cares........it's the wrong oil for a 1975 Cadillac 500 anyway.
Absolutely 100% agree.
I can't think of a more perfect oil for this car than Defy 10W40 (nice additive pack) year round.
Any flavor of 20W50 for summer would be a good second choice too.
Seems like the majority of the folks posting "advice" in this thread have never driven an old carbureted big block car. These engines love 40 and 50 weight oils.
Originally Posted By: Lex94
Sooo...Are 5w30 oils shear stable in 2014?
Who cares........it's the wrong oil for a 1975 Cadillac 500 anyway.
Absolutely 100% agree.
I can't think of a more perfect oil for this car than Defy 10W40 (nice additive pack) year round.
Any flavor of 20W50 for summer would be a good second choice too.
Seems like the majority of the folks posting "advice" in this thread have never driven an old carbureted big block car. These engines love 40 and 50 weight oils.
Originally Posted By: bubbatime
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Lex94
Sooo...Are 5w30 oils shear stable in 2014?
Who cares........it's the wrong oil for a 1975 Cadillac 500 anyway.
Absolutely 100% agree.
I can't think of a more perfect oil for this car than Defy 10W40 (nice additive pack) year round.
Any flavor of 20W50 for summer would be a good second choice too.
Seems like the majority of the folks posting "advice" in this thread have never driven an old carbureted big block car. These engines love 40 and 50 weight oils.
An xW30 is more than enough in this engine.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: Lex94
Sooo...Are 5w30 oils shear stable in 2014?
Who cares........it's the wrong oil for a 1975 Cadillac 500 anyway.
Absolutely 100% agree.
I can't think of a more perfect oil for this car than Defy 10W40 (nice additive pack) year round.
Any flavor of 20W50 for summer would be a good second choice too.
Seems like the majority of the folks posting "advice" in this thread have never driven an old carbureted big block car. These engines love 40 and 50 weight oils.
An xW30 is more than enough in this engine.
A Heavy-Duty 10W-30 (HDEO) like Rotella, Delo, or Delvac would be an excellent option.
Quaker State Defy 10W-30 would be another good option.
Yes, it is a low-power engine, but it does have a flat-tappet valvetrain, and fuel dilution is an issue, so a thicker 30-weight oil with higher levels of zddp is required.
The truth is, for summer-only use, a HDEO SAE 30 would be a fine option...cold starts aren't an issue, and a lack of VII's would help in a high fuel dilution situation.
Quaker State Defy 10W-30 would be another good option.
Yes, it is a low-power engine, but it does have a flat-tappet valvetrain, and fuel dilution is an issue, so a thicker 30-weight oil with higher levels of zddp is required.
The truth is, for summer-only use, a HDEO SAE 30 would be a fine option...cold starts aren't an issue, and a lack of VII's would help in a high fuel dilution situation.
Originally Posted By: 2stroker
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
This is a very large displacement engine that makes no real power.
It can't be all that demanding of its oil.
Low rated horsepower (210hp?) but 380 ft/lbs torque. Torque is what you feel in the seat of your pants.
Love those old cars, had a 78 Eldo, required lots of torque down low to move them.
Old guy once told me, "horsepower is how fast you hit a wall, torque is how far you go though the wall."
torque gets you there, and horsepower keeps you there.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
This is a very large displacement engine that makes no real power.
It can't be all that demanding of its oil.
Low rated horsepower (210hp?) but 380 ft/lbs torque. Torque is what you feel in the seat of your pants.
Love those old cars, had a 78 Eldo, required lots of torque down low to move them.
Old guy once told me, "horsepower is how fast you hit a wall, torque is how far you go though the wall."
torque gets you there, and horsepower keeps you there.
Originally Posted By: addyguy
Yes, it is a low-power engine, but it does have a flat-tappet valvetrain, and fuel dilution is an issue, so a thicker 30-weight oil with higher levels of zddp is required.
No higher levels of ZDDP is not required epically since the engine is nearly 40 years old. This cam is well broken in.
Yes, it is a low-power engine, but it does have a flat-tappet valvetrain, and fuel dilution is an issue, so a thicker 30-weight oil with higher levels of zddp is required.
No higher levels of ZDDP is not required epically since the engine is nearly 40 years old. This cam is well broken in.
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