Recommended oil - built Mazdaspeed 6 MZR

[FatOldMan]

So, I've got a 2007 Mazdaspeed 6. The engine has been built with forged internals. Big turbo and dyno'ed at 600 AWD WHP. The OEM oil recommended oil is 5W-30. The engine builder recommended 10W-40, or even 15W-50. The later seems too thick to me. My performance shop recommended Motul X-Clean 5W-40. Generally speaking, 10W-40 doesn't seem too common, but Mobil 1 makes 10W-40. At the moment, I'm more thinking of 5W-40.

Over the years on various vehicles, I've used a number of "boutique" oils, like Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, Motul, etc. I haven't read a whole lot of threads here, but I have read some and I know that most people here generally say that the boutique oils are generally not worth the money and that the best mass market oils like Mobile 1, Penzoil Ultra Platinum are actually among the best. For my most recent change, I was going to buy the Penzoil Ultra Platinum, but the local store was out and rather than drive around, I got the Mobil 1 5W-40. (I added in 1-quart of M1 15W-50 because the car has unusually large oil capacity of 6 quarts and I had some leftover 15W-50)

I see some "sticky" threads by a vendor "High Performance Lubricants". Given that the threads were made sticky, are they BitOG partners or something? A boutique oil that is actually worth paying extra for? I see that for 5W-40, they make "Passenger Car Engine Oil", "Premium Passenger Car Engine Oil", "Premium Plus Passenger Car Engine Oil" and "Super Car Engine Oil". While presumably the "Super Car Engine Oil" is the best, it looks to meet some super-specific specifications, while the other three meet more common specifications. Though I'm not sure why they bother to make those three levels, if you are willing to pay $12/quart to get the "Passenger Car Engine Oil", seems like you might as well pay the $16/quart for the Premium Plus.

So, maybe I should buy the High Performance Lubricants Premium Plus? Or should I just stick with the Mobil 1 or Penzoil Ultra Platinum? Obviously the former would be much more expensive.

EDIT: I realized I left a very similar thread a couple of years ago. I actually have not put a whole lot of miles on it since then. Only about 10,000 miles. At the time, people said the thicker oil of 15W50 would be fine. They suggested M1 15W50. My climate is Houston, hot. We do get some freezes in the winter, but cold weather is usually short-lived. Though at the time of my previous thread, there wasn't "High Performance Lubricants" I don't think. They don't seem to make anything like a 15W50, except in their racing oils where they have a 10W50 and a 10W60.

 

[JustN89]

The Winter rating is a moot point for where you are, a 10W or 5W-50 would be just fine. A 15W-50 would be as well, for what it's worth. I'd highly recommend reaching out to High Performance Lubricants directly. If you were looking for someone more knowledgeable, you'd be looking for a long time. Sometimes Dave will post on here, but they're very responsive when reaching out directly.

Contact | High Performance Lubricants

 

[WylieCoyote]

Just curious, did you have to beef up the transmission or rear diff to handle the power?

Mine in 2007

 

[FatOldMan]

Just curious, did you have to beef up the transmission or rear diff to handle the power?

Mine in 2007

I've got upgraded engine mounts, differential mounts, and upgraded end caps within the transfer case. And of course a high torque rated clutch with matching flywheel. But, otherwise, internals to the diff or trans, no.

Nice purple. Mine is velocity red.

 

[FatOldMan]

The Winter rating is a moot point for where you are, a 10W or 5W-50 would be just fine. A 15W-50 would be as well, for what it's worth. I'd highly recommend reaching out to High Performance Lubricants directly. If you were looking for someone more knowledgeable, you'd be looking for a long time. Sometimes Dave will post on here, but they're very responsive when reaching out directly.

Contact | High Performance Lubricants

Thanks. I'm curious as to the relationship between High Performance and BitOG. I see sticky threads for them. And some Penzoil sticky threads. But in general, I thought BitOG tries to be vendor neutral. So, is High Performance really something special? In the past, I've spent money on boutique oils and probably, generally speaking, overpaid for no actual benefit.

But, I will contact High Performance and see what they suggest, and I'll decide if I think it is worth the money or not... EDIT: I tried that contact form, but it keeps marking my post as spam and says try again later.

 

[facility1]

look at Torco SR-1 engine oil maybe a great choice,0w-40 or Royal Purple HPS oil.

 

[FatOldMan]

look at Torco SR-1 engine oil maybe a great choice,0w-40 or Royal Purple HPS oil.

I hadn't heard of Torco. I can look into it.

One thing I forgot to mention is, I am not running CATless, I have a GESI street legal 3-way high performance CAT. A lot of people with similar mods to mine run CATless but I am not. So I think that means a high zinc/phosphorus oil like HPS would be ruled out.

 

[cheesepuffs2]

I would just stick with the Mobil 1 that you've already been using.

 

[FatOldMan]

I would just stick with the Mobil 1 that you've already been using.

Maybe even make what I did this time my usual mix. 5 quarts 5W-40, one quart 15W-50. Car has unusually large 6 quart capacity. (If you do a balance shaft delete, which I did not, it is a massive 7 quart capacity).

 

[MVAR]

@FatOldMan at that power level I’m taking it that you’ve removed the DI & installed MPI correct?

I had an 06 MS6 several years ago. Was able to keep intake valves cleaner using Amsoil SS while others were doing walnut shell blasting every 40-45k mi or so.

Are you still running pump gas or are you on an Exx blend like 50/85/etc…?

Have you done a UOA to check for fuel dilution or other issues? Check current oil for shearing or just how well it’s performing?

My guess is that if you’re still on pump gas, one of the M1 super car oils in a 40/50 will be fine. As previously stated, the winter 5/10/15 won’t matter much in Houston. If you’re running E50 or E85, I’d contact HPL for their recommendation on an oil more closely designed for your application. Especially if you end up with some fuel dilution.

 

[FatOldMan]

@FatOldMan at that power level I’m taking it that you’ve removed the DI & installed MPI correct?

I had an 06 MS6 several years ago. Was able to keep intake valves cleaner using Amsoil SS while others were doing walnut shell blasting every 40-45k mi or so.

Are you still running pump gas or are you on an Exx blend like 50/85/etc…?

Have you done a UOA to check for fuel dilution or other issues? Check current oil for shearing or just how well it’s performing?

My guess is that if you’re still on pump gas, one of the M1 super car oils in a 40/50 will be fine. As previously stated, the winter 5/10/15 won’t matter much in Houston. If you’re running E50 or E85, I’d contact HPL for their recommendation on an oil more closely designed for your application. Especially if you end up with some fuel dilution.

Not removed the DI, but rather using both DI and MPI. So I have 4 direct injectors + 4 conventional injectors. A device called a "Split Second Controller" divvies up the fuel.

Never heard of "walnut shell blasting". Googled it... fer real??? I've heard of Seafoaming. But my I'm running VTA oil catch can with EGR delete, so, I shouldn't have carbon issues on the intake manifold.

I am running E50. I have an ethanol gauge. That usually translates to about 60% E85, 40% 93 pump gas.

I know I should do a UOA, but I never have. (Shame!) And I've already recycled my last change, so, it'll have to wait until next change.

I never heard of "Mobil 1 Supercar", I just Google'd it. Their page says CAT compatible only in the 0W40, not the 5W50. Although the zinc/phosphorus in the 5W50 isn't much higher than the 0W40. So, if I were to use M1 Supercar, I guess I would go with the 0W40.

As I said, I've got a VTA OCC. I've recently purchased but not yet installed a Radium air/oil separator. Yes, I know I will need to hook up coolant lines to it, to keep the fuel/water out of the oil. That said, I would presume that an AOS would still result in more oil dilution than an OCC. So, maybe I should go with HPL. I've tried to post on their contact form but it rejects my request as suspected spam. I guess I can call next week.

 

[FatOldMan]

P.S. I know I'm a bit of a pig, in regards to emissions. Honestly, when I first did the project to make it a high horsepower, if I had known that it would pretty much require VTA for the crankcase ventilation, I might not have gone forward. My shop didn't know I would have an issue with that and assumed I wouldn't care. So they installed a VTA OCC.

I did insist on having a catalytic converter, so I got a GESI high performance but street legal 3-way CAT. So, I could be a bigger pig.

The EGR is put in permanent "not ready" state and in Texas, emissions can pass with one not ready signal.

 

[MVAR]

Never heard of "walnut shell blasting". Googled it... fer real??? I've heard of Seafoaming. But my I'm running VTA oil catch can with EGR delete, so, I shouldn't have carbon issues on the intake manifold.

It’s still used. Did my wife’s fusion at about 105k with walnut shell blasting. The MS3/6 guys weren’t having any luck with catch cans for intake valve coking. I was going to try a Daley dry sump setup with pcv on the oil tank but sold the car when my wife opened a bakery & we (she) needed something larger.

You likely won’t experience much or any intake valve coking with the MPI setup. The early DI only engines had a severe issue with it.

 

[MVAR]

P.S. I know I'm a bit of a pig, in regards to emissions. Honestly, when I first did the project to make it a high horsepower, if I had known that it would pretty much require VTA for the crankcase ventilation, I might not have gone forward. My shop didn't know I would have an issue with that and assumed I wouldn't care. So they installed a VTA OCC.

I did insist on having a catalytic converter, so I got a GESI high performance but street legal 3-way CAT. So, I could be a bigger pig.

The EGR is put in permanent "not ready" state and in Texas, emissions can pass with one not ready signal.

With the E50 you’ll be burning cleaner so not an issue.

I just filled up with non ethanol 92 a few minutes ago. On vacation in the Oregon coast & was surprised it’s available. Wife’s fusion already likes the extra point of octane up here (92 vs 91 in CA). Going to see how it likes non ethanol 92 now lol

 

[FatOldMan]

With the E50 you’ll be burning cleaner so not an issue.

Well, true, the combustion should be cleaner. And I'm no expert on blow-by composition. But it would be my guess that the VTA OCC (or AOS) vents a moderate amount of unspent fuel.

If you know what a "Buc-ee's" is, some of them in the south have the 92 octane ethanol free. What does it use instead of ethanol, BTEX?

 

[MVAR]

Well, true, the combustion should be cleaner. And I'm no expert on blow-by composition. But it would be my guess that the VTA OCC (or AOS) vents a moderate amount of unspent fuel.

If you know what a "Buc-ee's" is, some of them in the south have the 92 octane ethanol free. What does it use instead of ethanol, BTEX?

Think if they keep the benzene low they can still use it.

Not the greatest blend though