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SF0059

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Aug 6, 2012
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Lynchburg, VA, USA
I have been lurking here for a while and have finally decided to join in the discussion. I have a couple of questions that I wanted to ask.

First, I have a 2006 Subaru Forester with 130,000 miles. It is my wife’s car and she drives it rather hard. Like all Subarus, it leaks a little oil and burns some too. Recently, it I has been burning through about a quart every 3,000 miles. I was running M1 5w30, PurolatorONE filter with an OCI of 5,000 miles. I switched to M1 5w30 HM on this last oil change and it slowed the burning slightly. All this being said, Mobil 1 is getting expensive given the burning issue. I’m thinking about switching to Quaker Defy with a P-One filter and keeping the OCI at 5,000. Do you think this would be advisable given my situation?

Second, my car is a 2004 Mazda 3 with the 2.3 with 110k. I have owned it since 30k. Previously, I ran Royal Purple 5w20 and Napa Gold filters with an OCI of 5,000. I switched to M1 and P-Ones at 90k due to cost. I know the engine is ridiculously clean and runs like a top. I am considering switching to Quaker Syn and taking the OCI up to 7500 to try to save some cash. Do you think this is advisable? Would you keep the M1 in this situation? Would you upgrade from a P-One filter in this scenario?

Sorry for all the questions. Just have a lot of questions built up!
 
The jury is still out on QS Defy. I haven't seen anything to show that it's any better than the other stuff out there.
 
Is there any other HM dino you would recommend in a similar price range? I am thinking about switching to dino for price but still want a high mileage element.
 
Welcome. Pennzoil yellow bottle, Mobil Super 5000, and Valvoline Nextgen are all fine dino oils. They can be purchased at auto part stores in many different viscosities and many times with rebates or on sale. There is a forum here about items on sale with many helpful folks there. And your choice of Pure One filter is a very good choice. With the above oils and filter, a OCI of 5,000 is acceptable. Enjoy the site.
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I have a 2000 RS with 125k on it used that used to get Max Life synth blend 5w30 and it now mainly gets Pennzoil High Mileage conventional 5w30. It has little to no consumption with 5-7k mile intervals. The car was purchased used with 60k on it.

With a few EJ25 uoa's here with 7-8k+ miles on conventional, I would stick to a robust conventional oil unless it's an XT or unless you push the intervals far beyond 5k. Of course, these are my recommendations for the Forester.
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-Dennis
 
Here is another question. If I were to keep running M1 (which I have always trusted) in my Mazda, do you think that 5k OCI is too frequent if I am running a P1 filter? Could I take it up to 7500-8000? Would you recommend a better filter if so?
 
Originally Posted By: SF0059
Here is another question. If I were to keep running M1 (which I have always trusted) in my Mazda, do you think that 5k OCI is too frequent if I am running a P1 filter? Could I take it up to 7500-8000? Would you recommend a better filter if so?


Depends on driving conditions. 95% stop and go? Stay with 5000 or less. Otherwise, yes. P1 is fine.
 
Originally Posted By: SF0059
Here is another question. If I were to keep running M1 (which I have always trusted) in my Mazda, do you think that 5k OCI is too frequent if I am running a P1 filter? Could I take it up to 7500-8000? Would you recommend a better filter if so?


5K mile OCI's...Too Frequent, Yes! Based on much that I have read over the years here @BITOG. Mobil 1 w/ P1 filter are both excellent choices for longer OCI's(can't define longer)

Those Mazda 2.0L & 2.3L are easy on oil from the UOA's that I have seen.

We're doing 5K mile OCI's on my daughter's '06 Mazda3 2.0L w/92K, using only dino and Puro Classic filter
 
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Originally Posted By: SF0059
Recently, it I has been burning through about a quart every 3,000 miles. I was running M1 5w30, PurolatorONE filter with an OCI of 5,000 miles. I switched to M1 5w30 HM on this last oil change and it slowed the burning slightly. All this being said, Mobil 1 is getting expensive given the burning issue.


It's funny how you characterize the M1 as expensive, when the car is using 1 QT every 3,000 miles. So, you pay, what, $9, including sales tax at retail price for 1 QT? (you can get it much cheaper, but let's stick with retail...). So, you're spending $3 every 1,000 miles for top off oil.

But in that same 1,000 miles, a subie driven hard is going to burn, what, 40 gallons of gasoline? At $3.50/gallon, that's about $140 for the same distance...so, you're spending about 50 times as much on gas for an admitted leadfoot...and the oil is expensive?

Without a UOA, I am guessing, but you could stretch the M1 out a bit for OCI, if you like the M1...and start buying it on special, where you can get 5 Qts + filter for about $30, and 25% off on extra QTs.

On the Mazda - a 7,500 mile OCI on M1 and P1 is reasonable, but I've got no experience with QS syn (not yet, have some that I got for $0.98/QT that will go in the truck), so I am not much help.

It's pretty clear that the guys who drive these two models go on a longer OCI, even with dino...that's going to cut your oil cost considerably. I go 7,500 on the Volvos, which see primarily city miles, and are turbocharged, and there is plenty of TBN left on M1 or PU...

Seems to me that the larger issue is what you're paying for oil...if $$ are tight (and they are for me, with 3 in college, and the fleet of cars I maintain), then scoring a good price for oil helps stretch them a bit...
 
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If you're in VA, keep checking the specials at Advance Auto Parts...

If you're a vet/SELRES, then hit the NEX for their clearance...I recently bought 6 cases of Pennzoil Ultra 5W30 for $3.96/QT, some QS Synthetic for $0.98/QT...previously bought about 24 QTs of Syntec for $2.96/QT...over 72 QTs of M1 5W40 TDT and 12 QTs of M1 0W30 for $0.98/QT...no room left on my garage shelves, but I will use it all...
 
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Thank you for all of your input!

I just picked up a 5 gallon jug of Pennzoil Ultra at Wal Mart with the $5 off coupon. I want to put it in my 2004 Mazda 3 with the 2.3l engine. I have a spare Purolator One filter for it which I plan to use. What kind of OCI should I observe with this combo? Should I get a better filter to take it longer? I drive mostly city. Thanks!
 
Originally Posted By: SF0059
Thank you for all of your input!

I just picked up a 5 gallon jug of Pennzoil Ultra at Wal Mart with the $5 off coupon.


Now go to the Pennzoil website and get the $10 mail in rebate offer!!
 
I'd run it for about 5000-7500 miles depending on how the engines been treated prior to. I run it about 7500 on the Volvo. If GC goes on sale anytime soon, I'll probably make the swap to GC.
 
Hey,

I will just throw my Suby .02 out there. As a long time Subaru driver I would just go the dino or blend and stick with the 5000 mi oil change. They do like their oil changed on a regular basis (as well as the other fluids like Trans, rear dif., coolant) I know my changes after around 5000 or so the oil is pretty black, that is typical of Subaru. Lot's of Subaru's up here and quite a few shops that just service them as a specialty. My guy tells me the best way you can keep from seeing me is to change the oil. Based on that the dino and the 5000mi has served me well. Nothing scientific, just my experience. I did do QS Defy on my last change, picked it up on sale for almost the price of dino, and my next change on the Forester is going to be Pennzoil Platinum but that is due to it is going to spend the winter in Maine and I figured the full syn. will do better on those -0 degree starts.

I am still a dino fan I guess. But with today's oil I don't really think there are many bad choices.

Good luck, take care of that Subaru
 
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