Do you do any longer trips during your OCI? ~930 miles on a batch of oil is very little, even with your short trips.
Recomended Oil Filter for GM 3.1L
- Thread starter Chris11
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It varies from year to year. Some years I go cross country to visit relatives or friends but mostly I just do short commutes to and from work. During the Winter it's especially hard on the oil since the car never really has a lot of time to warm up to boil of any condensation that can form in the oil. I would on occasion purposely go on a long drive once every couple of weeks to really warm the oil up. Like I said before it's just piece of mind for me to change it earlier as I do. Oil is relatively clean when I change it too. No sludge and I have yet to see any metal shavings or other particulate in it. Sure it could be there but none that I have noticed.
Originally Posted By: Chris11
I gotta admit though I like the K&N's nut on the bottom. My Oil Filter is underneath the car right beside the Oil Pan. When I use my Oil Filter Wrench to remove it it hits the the pan so I can't turn it enough to loosen it so I always end up getting the hammer and screwdriver and hammering it through to get the leverage to turn it. The K&N would save me from that but I will for sure go with the Napa Gold. Thanks again for all your help.
You're putting it on too tight. 3/4 turn after initial gasket contact. I (almost) never have to use a filter wrench to remove the filter from my Buick, Ford, or VW.
If you put it on too tight you actually risk smashing the seal enough that it will leak.
I gotta admit though I like the K&N's nut on the bottom. My Oil Filter is underneath the car right beside the Oil Pan. When I use my Oil Filter Wrench to remove it it hits the the pan so I can't turn it enough to loosen it so I always end up getting the hammer and screwdriver and hammering it through to get the leverage to turn it. The K&N would save me from that but I will for sure go with the Napa Gold. Thanks again for all your help.
You're putting it on too tight. 3/4 turn after initial gasket contact. I (almost) never have to use a filter wrench to remove the filter from my Buick, Ford, or VW.
If you put it on too tight you actually risk smashing the seal enough that it will leak.
Originally Posted By: buickman50401
You're putting it on too tight. 3/4 turn after initial gasket contact.
I use to tighten filters to ~1 turn, but cut back to 2/3 ~ 3/4 turn which works better when it comes time to remove them. Never had any leaks or loose filter with 2/3 ~ 3/4 turn. Of course, lube the gasket with new motor oil before installing.
You're putting it on too tight. 3/4 turn after initial gasket contact.
I use to tighten filters to ~1 turn, but cut back to 2/3 ~ 3/4 turn which works better when it comes time to remove them. Never had any leaks or loose filter with 2/3 ~ 3/4 turn. Of course, lube the gasket with new motor oil before installing.
I hear what you're saying. Believe me when I tell you that I always hand tighten the filter with 3/4 turn. It even says that on the sticker that comes on the AC Delco filters i've been using. Friends of mine like to use a wrench to tighten theirs when they do oil changes and I always tell them not too. I always tell them about how by hand tightening 3/4 of turn the way I do, when it comes time to remove the filter all the combined strength of the Greek Gods couldn't remove the thing without the help of a wrench.
I also once the Oil Filter is removed, check to make sure the gasket is still attached to the filter and not stuck on the block. I've never known this to happen to anyone personally but I have read lots of stories of people having "double gaskets" that would of course cause leaks.
I also once the Oil Filter is removed, check to make sure the gasket is still attached to the filter and not stuck on the block. I've never known this to happen to anyone personally but I have read lots of stories of people having "double gaskets" that would of course cause leaks.
Originally Posted By: Chris11
For sure I will. The K&N here retails for $15.99, M1 $14.99 (though it's currently on sale for $10.99) but the Napa Gold is only $5.99! The AC Delco I was getting from the dealer was $8.20. I gotta admit though I like the K&N's nut on the bottom. My Oil Filter is underneath the car right beside the Oil Pan. When I use my Oil Filter Wrench to remove it it hits the the pan so I can't turn it enough to loosen it so I always end up getting the hammer and screwdriver and hammering it through to get the leverage to turn it. The K&N would save me from that but I will for sure go with the Napa Gold. Thanks again for all your help.
Why don't you just get the cup style filter wrench that slips over the grooves on the dome end of the filter.
I used to use one on my GM v6's with about an 8 inch extension and 3/8 ratchet.
For sure I will. The K&N here retails for $15.99, M1 $14.99 (though it's currently on sale for $10.99) but the Napa Gold is only $5.99! The AC Delco I was getting from the dealer was $8.20. I gotta admit though I like the K&N's nut on the bottom. My Oil Filter is underneath the car right beside the Oil Pan. When I use my Oil Filter Wrench to remove it it hits the the pan so I can't turn it enough to loosen it so I always end up getting the hammer and screwdriver and hammering it through to get the leverage to turn it. The K&N would save me from that but I will for sure go with the Napa Gold. Thanks again for all your help.
Why don't you just get the cup style filter wrench that slips over the grooves on the dome end of the filter.
I used to use one on my GM v6's with about an 8 inch extension and 3/8 ratchet.
Originally Posted By: Chris11
I hear what you're saying. Believe me when I tell you that I always hand tighten the filter with 3/4 turn. It even says that on the sticker that comes on the AC Delco filters i've been using. Friends of mine like to use a wrench to tighten theirs when they do oil changes and I always tell them not too. I always tell them about how by hand tightening 3/4 of turn the way I do, when it comes time to remove the filter all the combined strength of the Greek Gods couldn't remove the thing without the help of a wrench.
Here's what I do so I can tell exactly how much I've turned the filter (originally saw this on Frams back in the 90s - no sure if they still have it). Take a black permanent marker (or one of those permanent white colored grease pen type markers) and draw 4 triangles (or squares or circles... whatever) on the can spread out evenly. Fill in two of them (that are on opposite sides of the can) so they are completely black.
Once the gasket makes contact, note the position of the triangle and if its colored in or not and then count the number of filled/not filled triangles as you turn the filter. So for example if I started with an "empty" triangle I should end on a filled in triangle: empty (start), filled (1/4 turn), empty (1/2 turn), filled (3/4 turn).
Tell your goofball friends that putting the filters on with a wrench is a great way to damage them either by smashing the gasket so flat that it leaks or by partially crushing the can.
Originally Posted By: cronk
Why don't you just get the cup style filter wrench that slips over the grooves on the dome end of the filter.
I used to use one on my GM v6's with about an 8 inch extension and 3/8 ratchet.
I've found those to be somewhat worthless. The cap doesn't always match up with the filters grooves, assuming the filter has a faceted end. They're useful you're buying the same brand of filter each time, but otherwise no so much.
I hear what you're saying. Believe me when I tell you that I always hand tighten the filter with 3/4 turn. It even says that on the sticker that comes on the AC Delco filters i've been using. Friends of mine like to use a wrench to tighten theirs when they do oil changes and I always tell them not too. I always tell them about how by hand tightening 3/4 of turn the way I do, when it comes time to remove the filter all the combined strength of the Greek Gods couldn't remove the thing without the help of a wrench.
Here's what I do so I can tell exactly how much I've turned the filter (originally saw this on Frams back in the 90s - no sure if they still have it). Take a black permanent marker (or one of those permanent white colored grease pen type markers) and draw 4 triangles (or squares or circles... whatever) on the can spread out evenly. Fill in two of them (that are on opposite sides of the can) so they are completely black.
Once the gasket makes contact, note the position of the triangle and if its colored in or not and then count the number of filled/not filled triangles as you turn the filter. So for example if I started with an "empty" triangle I should end on a filled in triangle: empty (start), filled (1/4 turn), empty (1/2 turn), filled (3/4 turn).
Tell your goofball friends that putting the filters on with a wrench is a great way to damage them either by smashing the gasket so flat that it leaks or by partially crushing the can.
Originally Posted By: cronk
Why don't you just get the cup style filter wrench that slips over the grooves on the dome end of the filter.
I used to use one on my GM v6's with about an 8 inch extension and 3/8 ratchet.
I've found those to be somewhat worthless. The cap doesn't always match up with the filters grooves, assuming the filter has a faceted end. They're useful you're buying the same brand of filter each time, but otherwise no so much.
First welcome to a fellow Canuck!
The PF47 should be a classic it is the PF47E that is the E-core but at your OCI I doubt an E-core would be a problem.
If you can get NAPA Golds at that price then they're pretty hard to beat up here. The last 1040 I bought was over $10. I don't know where region you are in but you should be able to find Wix at a local auto parts shop. I did but their pricing has crept up into direct competition with NAPA.
Some other options...Quaker State filers at Canadian Tire are Purolator Classic clones and supposed to be decent. Fram Tough Guard is priced a bit higher but probably ok. At 1500km you would probably be fine with an orange Fram or Motomaster. I recently found a heavy truck supply place that carries Baldwins at a good price. I have one that is going on the G6, uses the PF47/1040 too, probably next week and will be using these from now on. As long as there are no issues, which I doubt there will be.
Even though you're a short tripper you could probably do a 6 month spring/fall OCI and not have any problems, if you wanted to.
The PF47 should be a classic it is the PF47E that is the E-core but at your OCI I doubt an E-core would be a problem.
If you can get NAPA Golds at that price then they're pretty hard to beat up here. The last 1040 I bought was over $10. I don't know where region you are in but you should be able to find Wix at a local auto parts shop. I did but their pricing has crept up into direct competition with NAPA.
Some other options...Quaker State filers at Canadian Tire are Purolator Classic clones and supposed to be decent. Fram Tough Guard is priced a bit higher but probably ok. At 1500km you would probably be fine with an orange Fram or Motomaster. I recently found a heavy truck supply place that carries Baldwins at a good price. I have one that is going on the G6, uses the PF47/1040 too, probably next week and will be using these from now on. As long as there are no issues, which I doubt there will be.
Even though you're a short tripper you could probably do a 6 month spring/fall OCI and not have any problems, if you wanted to.
I heard the Quaker State Oil Filters were the same as Purolators as well but I remember reading that has since changed. I could be wrong though. I live in Winnipeg btw and there are 5 Napa Auto Parts dealers here. I called 2 of them and they both had different prices for some reason for the same Napa Gold filter. The one closest to me was $5.99, the other one I called said it was $7.77 with a 50 cent enviro fee. Either way they were both cheaper than the AC Delco's I am currently using. I've heard lots of positive feedback on the Napa Golds so that's what i'll go with. I admit that I will miss that little blue filter.
About a month ago my car was making these clunking sounds going over bumps and dips in the roads. I went under the car and found the sway bar end link had broken off where it meets the control arm. I bought a new one from the dealer. I laughed at the fact that the bushings for it were blue too. I guess AC Delco loves that color.
About a month ago my car was making these clunking sounds going over bumps and dips in the roads. I went under the car and found the sway bar end link had broken off where it meets the control arm. I bought a new one from the dealer. I laughed at the fact that the bushings for it were blue too. I guess AC Delco loves that color.
Thanks buickman50401. I'll try that trick out. Smart thinking. The wrench I am currently using is one made by Quaker State. It is really hard to get it to grip the filter in the first place to move it and I just can't get it off by hand hence the hammer/screwdriver combo. Maybe i'm not as strong as I used to be. LOL! Thanks again for your advice.
As for my goofball friends they will never listen. The other one was complaining to me that his car was overheating. I checked it out and found that one of the hoses had dried up, cracked and sprung a leak. I told him we would go out the next day and buy a new hose and fix it. Well he went around driving it anyway with it overheating and now the head gasket blew. We removed the head and sent it to be pressure tested and it came back warped so yeah. We found a used engine for it for $500 and got it put in. I told him to change the oil and filter for it but he figures it'll be fine. LOL! You just can't get through to some people I guess.
As for my goofball friends they will never listen. The other one was complaining to me that his car was overheating. I checked it out and found that one of the hoses had dried up, cracked and sprung a leak. I told him we would go out the next day and buy a new hose and fix it. Well he went around driving it anyway with it overheating and now the head gasket blew. We removed the head and sent it to be pressure tested and it came back warped so yeah. We found a used engine for it for $500 and got it put in. I told him to change the oil and filter for it but he figures it'll be fine. LOL! You just can't get through to some people I guess.
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Originally Posted By: buickman50401
Originally Posted By: Chris11
I gotta admit though I like the K&N's nut on the bottom. My Oil Filter is underneath the car right beside the Oil Pan. When I use my Oil Filter Wrench to remove it it hits the the pan so I can't turn it enough to loosen it so I always end up getting the hammer and screwdriver and hammering it through to get the leverage to turn it. The K&N would save me from that but I will for sure go with the Napa Gold. Thanks again for all your help.
You're putting it on too tight. 3/4 turn after initial gasket contact. I (almost) never have to use a filter wrench to remove the filter from my Buick, Ford, or VW.
If you put it on too tight you actually risk smashing the seal enough that it will leak.
The box of many filters (and filters themselves) beg to differ... in fact, they say 1 to 1 1/4 extra turn(s)... ie my Purolators
Originally Posted By: Chris11
I gotta admit though I like the K&N's nut on the bottom. My Oil Filter is underneath the car right beside the Oil Pan. When I use my Oil Filter Wrench to remove it it hits the the pan so I can't turn it enough to loosen it so I always end up getting the hammer and screwdriver and hammering it through to get the leverage to turn it. The K&N would save me from that but I will for sure go with the Napa Gold. Thanks again for all your help.
You're putting it on too tight. 3/4 turn after initial gasket contact. I (almost) never have to use a filter wrench to remove the filter from my Buick, Ford, or VW.
If you put it on too tight you actually risk smashing the seal enough that it will leak.
The box of many filters (and filters themselves) beg to differ... in fact, they say 1 to 1 1/4 extra turn(s)... ie my Purolators
Originally Posted By: Chris11
Thanks buickman50401. I'll try that trick out. Smart thinking. The wrench I am currently using is one made by Quaker State. It is really hard to get it to grip the filter in the first place to move it and I just can't get it off by hand hence the hammer/screwdriver combo. Maybe i'm not as strong as I used to be. LOL! Thanks again for your advice.
As for my goofball friends they will never listen. The other one was complaining to me that his car was overheating. I checked it out and found that one of the hoses had dried up, cracked and sprung a leak. I told him we would go out the next day and buy a new hose and fix it. Well he went around driving it anyway with it overheating and now the head gasket blew. We removed the head and sent it to be pressure tested and it came back warped so yeah. We found a used engine for it for $500 and got it put in. I told him to change the oil and filter for it but he figures it'll be fine. LOL! You just can't get through to some people I guess.
I would find some new friends then (j/k) the twice a year OCI for you would be perfect
Thanks buickman50401. I'll try that trick out. Smart thinking. The wrench I am currently using is one made by Quaker State. It is really hard to get it to grip the filter in the first place to move it and I just can't get it off by hand hence the hammer/screwdriver combo. Maybe i'm not as strong as I used to be. LOL! Thanks again for your advice.
As for my goofball friends they will never listen. The other one was complaining to me that his car was overheating. I checked it out and found that one of the hoses had dried up, cracked and sprung a leak. I told him we would go out the next day and buy a new hose and fix it. Well he went around driving it anyway with it overheating and now the head gasket blew. We removed the head and sent it to be pressure tested and it came back warped so yeah. We found a used engine for it for $500 and got it put in. I told him to change the oil and filter for it but he figures it'll be fine. LOL! You just can't get through to some people I guess.
I would find some new friends then (j/k) the twice a year OCI for you would be perfect
Originally Posted By: Chris11
...I was watching YouTube the other day with 2 different videos, one an Accura dealearship the other a Honda dealership and they were talking about the importance of using OEM filters as opposed to aftermarket ones...
I'd be all for it if the dealers sold better filters. Many aftermarkets only make filters. They are usually pretty good at it.
...I was watching YouTube the other day with 2 different videos, one an Accura dealearship the other a Honda dealership and they were talking about the importance of using OEM filters as opposed to aftermarket ones...
I'd be all for it if the dealers sold better filters. Many aftermarkets only make filters. They are usually pretty good at it.
Originally Posted By: mechanicx
ACDelco does still offer the PF47 classic style but not many places carry it.
I know this doesn't help the OP, but AutoZone carries the non-Ecore versions of both the PF-47 and the PF-52 (longer version of the PF-47).
ACDelco does still offer the PF47 classic style but not many places carry it.
I know this doesn't help the OP, but AutoZone carries the non-Ecore versions of both the PF-47 and the PF-52 (longer version of the PF-47).
With all the counterfeit AC Delco's on the market i'm not sure I would feel safe buying from anyone other than the dealer. There is no AutoZones where I live so I don't know if they're good at spotting counterfeits or not. I've always heard good things about AutoZone so I would hope they would spot them and not sell them to consumers.
Counterfeit ACDelcos? What, is the Russian mob tired of laundering cash, now they're peddling fake filters made out of soda cans through the auto parts stores? Seriously dude?
I am serious. AC Delco has a page dedicated to it on their website. http://www.acdelco.com/parts/counterfeit/index.jsp
Originally Posted By: Chris11
I am serious. AC Delco has a page dedicated to it on their website. http://www.acdelco.com/parts/counterfeit/index.jsp
I wish the industry was filled with people like you... I'd make a ton of cash!
AC Delco has had that page for as long as I can remember. There is absolutely NO reason to worry about getting a counterfeit AC Delco part.
I am serious. AC Delco has a page dedicated to it on their website. http://www.acdelco.com/parts/counterfeit/index.jsp
I wish the industry was filled with people like you... I'd make a ton of cash!
AC Delco has had that page for as long as I can remember. There is absolutely NO reason to worry about getting a counterfeit AC Delco part.
How so? If you're implying that i'm being too cautious or paranoid than you'd be hard pressed to get a dime from me. Regardless of all that I picked up a Napa Gold Oil Filter the other day. It's stamped made in the USA which I was happy to see. Looks good to me. It's a bit taller than the E-Core I had, just like the classic AC Delco's were. I'll be doing an oil change mid October. I'll cut open my E-Core then and take a look inside. At my next OCI i'll cut open the Napa Gold too just for the heck of it.
Big thanks to everyone on this forum for you help. Much appreciated.
Big thanks to everyone on this forum for you help. Much appreciated.
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I use the NAPA silver on the 3.1 I service, never a problem.
And dino oil too.
And dino oil too.
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