Rebuilt pushrod V8

[Furyus67]

I recently rebuilt a 1995 Dodge Ram 5.2 (318) V8 magnum and put it in a 1967 Plymouth Fury III.

The motor was cleaned, hot tanked, cylinders honed, and completely rebuikt. It has the factory hydraulic roller camshaft (not an old flat tappet) and stock valvetrain. It has been converted from fuel injection to carburetor. The camshaft bearing clearances are between .001-.003in. The Connecting rod bearing clearances are between 0.0005-0.0022 in. The engine will be street driven not raced. It may see some Maryland winter driving, but I doubt much below 32 degrees. Mostly spring, summer, and fall.

What oil should I run in this application?

With it being the “newer” magnum motor and not the original engine I shouldn’t have to worry about zinc, right?

The shop manual for the 1995 5.2 called for any API SH 10w-30. Essentially I should be able to run any off the shelf 10w-30, right? I know the 10w-30 seems to be a dying breed. Is there something newer or better that I should be running instead of the older recommended 10w30?

Thank you

 

[Nessism1]

In truth, any flavor 10W-30 should be fine. Or, 0W/5w-40, also.

In the world of hair splitting that us Bob guys live, a quality diesel oil can be run also.

Honestly, just keep the engine wet and you are likely going to be just fine.

 

[OVERKILL]

I'd run a Euro 0W-40 or 5W-40 like M1 FS 0W-40.

 

[facility1]

Royal Purple hps 5w-30 may be a good choice.

 

[eljefino]

Good choice in motor. I'd run "whatever" but get an analysis done to make sure you're not getting fuel dilution from being carb'd then go from there.

 

[demarpaint]

I'd run a Euro 0W-40 or 5W-40 like M1 FS 0W-40.

+1

 

[Zaedock]

I currently run Castrol 0W40 Euro in my pushrod toys. Any XW30-XW40 lubricant would be fine.
No need for extra zinc over current levels with that engine design.

 

[JavierH19]

You could run whatever in it but I'm partial to something better even if not needed. If it's not driven in the cold I'd give the new Valvoline full syn heavy duty a try. 4.3 hths, 8.4% noack, 1240zddp and 1100 phos.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvolin...GgxVtZYWgDl-i-B6d7czd9WIQQSZEs2QaAkJTEALw_wcB

 

[zrxkawboy]

I'd just use your favorite 5W30 or 10W30, and your motor will live a long, healthy life.

 

[notharry]

Anything in that range is fine. My absolute fav is Mobil 1 5w30 Extended performance. But follow what the ring manufacturer recommends for break-in first. Yes 10w30 is not needed its just what was common at the time as I always ran 10w40 in a 350 SB mostly and she ran 280000 miles before we sold her. Heads never came off it. same berings. Edit Through new england winters too.

 

[kschachn]

Pictures please!

 

[ka9mnx]

Like other have said, M1 Euro 0w-40. M1 ESP 0w-30 (or 5w-30) would be another good choice. A later Mopar TSB changed the grade recommendation for your engine from 10w-30 to 5w-30.

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Do LA magnum engines really care as long as there is oil in them?

I'd probably run a synthetic 10w-30 and forget about it.

 

[Furyus67]

Pictures please!

 

[JavierH19]

Beautiful flaming red fury

 

[Furyus67]

Anything in that range is fine. My absolute fav is Mobil 1 5w30 Extended performance. But follow what the ring manufacturer recommends for break-in first. Yes 10w30 is not needed its just what was common at the time as I always ran 10w40 in a 350 SB mostly and she ran 280000 miles before we sold her. Heads never came off it. same berings. Edit Through new england winters too.

I used VR1 SAE30 for break-in. Everything is running great (so far). Drained that oil and threw in Napa 10w30 and will do another short OCI on this oil. Then I'll start using one of the recommendations above.

Searching across the forum it seems like everyone as whole recommends the Donaldson or Purolator Boss oil filters? Might have to go after one of those too.

 

[Furyus67]

Like other have said, M1 Euro 0w-40. M1 ESP 0w-30 (or 5w-30) would be another good choice. A later Mopar TSB changed the grade recommendation for your engine from 10w-30 to 5w-30.

Thanks. I never knew a TSB came out for that.

 

[JavierH19]

I used VR1 SAE30 for break-in. Everything is running great (so far). Drained that oil and threw in Napa 10w30 and will do another short OCI on this oil. Then I'll start using one of the recommendations above.

Searching across the forum it seems like everyone as whole recommends the Donaldson or Purolator Boss oil filters? Might have to go after one of those too.

Donaldsons are still good but the purolators aren't great. Either Donaldson or premium guard but the PG is easy to get in the carquest label.

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...m=oil+filter&selectedFulfillment=store_pickup

 

[Cujet]

Another vote for 5W-40 synthetic. Many of us use Rotella T6 5W-40 in our conventional gasoline engines with great results. Same goes for M1 5W-40 TDT/Delvac 1. Traditionally, both oils carried certification for use in gas engines. That may have changed recently, but as far as I know, the formulations remain much the same. These oils contain normal levels of calcium detergent, which is fine for your non "direct injection" application, and do a great job keeping engines free of deposits.

Can't really go wrong with good old Mobil 1, 10W-30. I've used that oil with great results for decades now.

As always, clean oil of adequate viscosity is key.

 

[hemitom]

With the quality of todays oils over the the SH spec recommended for it !
Any 5w30 10w30 is sufficient