Oil for boosting oil pressure in 1950s V8

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I didn't do anything to any oil passages to valvetrain.

Everyone is correct, the small mods I did only opened up oil passages to the bearings. So shouldn't have any effects on oil pressure. I'm tempted to remove the pump and inspect it. They are cheap, and I may just put another in.
I would blueprint it and tighten it up. You would have to do that with any new one. IIRC Melling HV FORD are only about 20 - 25% more volume. Stock should be fine. Used stock pumps up to well over 400hp on the FE. HV pumps eats HP. pumping oil is not free and shearing it in bypass is not good at all.

Have fun.

p.s: that motor doesn't want a 50 in it. I would run a ho hum 10W30 HD mixed fleet dino for break in with a break-in additive. for the first couple oil dumps. Rotella Triple was a go to oil. I cant find it anymore. I hear Tractor Supply carries it.
 

OVERKILL

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I actually didn't write down what my rod bearing clearances were, I measure with a micrometer and a bore gauge to calculate bearing clearance. Double check with plastigauge on a bearing or two.
Rod bearings were what I suspected, but it sounds like you believe they are factory spec.

What happened with the factory oil pump, was it in bad shape?
 
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p.s: that motor doesn't want a 50 in it. I would run a ho hum 10W30 HD mixed fleet dino for break in with a break-in additive. for the first couple oil dumps. Rotella Triple was a go to oil. I cant find it anymore. I hear Tractor Supply carries it.
On the other hand it would be an inexpensive experiment if he wanted to try. No Mobil 1, no Amsoil, no boutique oil needed. Just the least expensive 50-grade available at Walmart. Had it been done it would have ended the debate over grade after the first post. It's not going to harm the motor in any way.
 
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On the other hand it would be an inexpensive experiment if he wanted to try. No Mobil 1, no Amsoil, no boutique oil needed. Just the least expensive 50-grade available at Walmart. Had it been done it would have ended the debate over grade after the first post. It's not going to harm the motor in any way.
Yes, I agree it would be. But if you are not going to run that grade, why try. It's just a big power sapper and hard on the cam gears and bearings.
Compromise on a Motorcycle 4T ?
 

ZeeOSix

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Yes but what I meant was that if the flow is sufficient to supply the bearings with adequate lubricant then increasing the flow will not lubricate more better.

I guess I just get tired of people thinking flow is always the problem and more flow fixes everything.
More pressure supply to the bearings does make more oil flow go through them, but it doesn't really make them work better. The only possible advantage to more oil pressure and resultung flow is more cooling effect. More oil pressure due to a higher volume oil pump also ensures more flow headroom to all force fed lubricated parts.
 
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ZeeOSix

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Its pitiful that your thread turned into chest thumbing armchair wannabe engineers battling it out. Same ol' same ol' in every thread.
That's what happens when misconceptions start popping up in technical threads.
 

ZeeOSix

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5. That offset might've been the equivalent of oil flow balancing restrictors.
As touched on earlier, the offset would have to be pretty drastic to cause the offset blockage to act as "flow restricting orifices", and the effect would also depend on the bearing clearance and the oil flow volume the journal bearings want to naturally flow from rotation. It could be that it's a design feature to help balance the flow through the oiling system.

If the bearings wanted to flow more oil than the "blocking orifice" could supply, then there would be an oil supply issue to the bearings. If they did act as flow restrictors, the effect would be much more noticeable as higher RPM, and not really that noticeable at idle. With all other factors held constant, a low oil pressure at idle pretty much points to a weak pump, and/or a less restrictive oiling system.
 
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I rebuilt my 1959 Ford FE 352 engine last year. I opted for a melling standard output oil pump and standard bearing clearances. Thus engine has hydraulic flat tappet lifters. I've run Amsoil Z-Rod 10w-30 but I have alarmingly low oil pressure, 10psi hot idle, and 25psi going down the road at 2000 RPM. Oil pressure is measured at the oil filter adapter which is obviously the closest to the oil pump. Cold pressures are 45psi 650RPM idle, and 60psi at 2000.

I wish the oil pan were easier to remove and I'd simply install a high volume oil pump, but that is a bit of a challenge while the engine is in the car due to very tight cross member clearances.

Is the Z-Rod 10w-40 much thicker, or should I opt for the wicked expensive 20w-50?

I'm not completely sold on using a boutique oil for this application, I just have an Amsoil account and put 6 qts of Z-Rod on my last order. I'm open to other options. I could just Rotella 15w-40 or something similar. I put roughly 2000 miles a year on it, and was planning on a biannual oil change with the Z-Rod, but could do something else.

What do you guys recommend? This thing isn't a hot rod and will never see over 4000 RPM.
Find the source of your internal oil leak.
 
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Tighten up your bearing clearances.
What are his bearing clearances. Look before you leap, OIly. The measurements are where they should be.

BB ford-edsels are notorious for low idle pressure.

Funny my 6500w Generator works it heart out under load with 28 oz of oil in the sump and no oil pressure - since it doesn'teven have an oil pump :)

And she hasn't blown up yet in over 17 years.
 
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