I'm in the process of rebuilding a Pontiac 400 motor for my 67' GTO. Bored .30, new forged pistons, new cam, lifters, forged rods, valves, head work, etc. Should be about a 350 to 360 hp motor when finished. When I get this motor back in my car what is the best motor oil to use for the initial "break-in" and how long should I run this break-in oil before dumping it and putting in the oil that will be normally run. I do use all the break-in lubes that come with the cam and other parts and "prime" the oil pump before firing it up the first time. I'm a big Mobil 1 5w-30 fan for most of my cars but not real sure about this older Pontiac motor. Any suggestions on the best oil to run in this motor after the break-in period? Any info. provided will be appreciated. Thanx.
Rebuilt Motor,which Oil?
- Thread starter pharmer
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Any SM dino will do. I like SuperTech oils (XOM up here). Run 10W30 at 2000 rpm to break in the new cam, take a drive around the block and change the break-in oil. When I built the 355ci in my Malibu, this is what I did and she's been good for 55K miles.
Enjoy your new engine!
Enjoy your new engine!
"Older flat tappet lifter with cam in block engines tend to require special additives to break in that new spec SM and/or GF4 oils have dropped from their requirements, but are likely to still be included in a good HDEO. Modern oil additives tend to work fine for a fuel injected SOHC engine, but are a little weak for a OHV flat tappet lifter cam carb engine that is ran maybe 50 miles every other weekend. "
All of the "special additives" are in the cam assembly lube. SM oil covers all previous API certifications and would be fine in this engine.
There are still "flat tappet lifter" engines out there (i.e. Jeep 2.5L/4.0L engines) and they're all doing fine with SM.
Pharmer, After initial startup and 15-20 minute cam break in, I take her for a mild spin around the block and then change the oil. After 500-1000 miles, I change it again.
All of the "special additives" are in the cam assembly lube. SM oil covers all previous API certifications and would be fine in this engine.
There are still "flat tappet lifter" engines out there (i.e. Jeep 2.5L/4.0L engines) and they're all doing fine with SM.
Pharmer, After initial startup and 15-20 minute cam break in, I take her for a mild spin around the block and then change the oil. After 500-1000 miles, I change it again.
You could go to the nearest John Deere dealer and get "John Deere Break In Oil". It is a diesel rated 10W30 oil. Should be great for your application.
I rebuilt a 4.3 vortec this summer. Bored it .30 over. Almost everything was replaced or machined. I primed it, and started it. I ran it at 2,000 rpms after a five minute idle and fluid check. Then I took it out and ran it to WOT about 20, 25 times and changed the oil. And we ran it hard but not to hard for 500 miles and changed it again. We used Pennzoil LL 15W-40, AC filter and a cam break-in additive. We haven't had any problems with it. And it had about 15,000 on it now. After the five hundred mile oil service it was changed at 1,500, 5,000, 10,000, and again at 15,000. I took a sample at 15,000 and will be sending it into CAT SOS but haven't got around to it yet. This engine is in a 4x4 1500 chevy with a five speed.
I thought that might help you. Hope it did.
There was a good thread by a GM engineer on how to break in engines. You might be able to find it under the name ******** (or something like that).
It made a lot of sense. Basically he said it was good to do some WOT runs as well as engine braking runs. However, he said you should not let the rpms get too high because you do not want the oil filter to go into bypass mode. I think he said 4500rpm max.
It made a lot of sense. Basically he said it was good to do some WOT runs as well as engine braking runs. However, he said you should not let the rpms get too high because you do not want the oil filter to go into bypass mode. I think he said 4500rpm max.
Use any 10W-30 HDEO in that engine that you can find locally. Note that you can find a HDEO in 15W-40 all day long, but you may have to shop around for a 10W-30 HDEO.
Older flat tappet lifter with cam in block engines tend to require special additives to break in that new spec SM and/or GF4 oils have dropped from their requirements, but are likely to still be included in a good HDEO. Modern oil additives tend to work fine for a fuel injected SOHC engine, but are a little weak for a OHV flat tappet lifter cam carb engine that is ran maybe 50 miles every other weekend.
Try running that engine at least 10-12k miles with normal 3k oil changes before thinking about going to synthetic. Use a good filter like Pure One that will catch all the wear metal from the break in process.
Older flat tappet lifter with cam in block engines tend to require special additives to break in that new spec SM and/or GF4 oils have dropped from their requirements, but are likely to still be included in a good HDEO. Modern oil additives tend to work fine for a fuel injected SOHC engine, but are a little weak for a OHV flat tappet lifter cam carb engine that is ran maybe 50 miles every other weekend.
Try running that engine at least 10-12k miles with normal 3k oil changes before thinking about going to synthetic. Use a good filter like Pure One that will catch all the wear metal from the break in process.
Definitely use all the cam break-in lubes and prime before firing. I would use a dino oil that has a high content of zinc and phosphorous such as delo or delvac or rotella. Many cam manufacturers are reporting lobe problems whem using newer oils that have reduced levels of these elements. I would also use marvel mystery oil rather than engine oil for lubricating piston/ring combo during assembly as it burns away clean and fast during initial firing to prevent ring packs from gumming up. Although this might be a moot point if your engine is already assembled. good luck
I would also add a bottle of GM EOS for the break in , you can buy it at any General Motors Dealer.
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/1016/products/584/GM-Engine-Oil-Suppliment-EOS-16oz-Bottle-.htm
http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/1016/products/584/GM-Engine-Oil-Suppliment-EOS-16oz-Bottle-.htm
Thanks everyone for all the input as it has helped in trying to find the best type "break-in" oil to use for this older motor. Now, what is the best type oil, brand & viscosity, to run in this Pontiac motor AFTER it's broken in? In other words, the daily use oil to run in a warm, Tn. climate.
You could follow my ususal advice:
Use the latest rated oil in an appropriate viscosity. Use a national brand if it makes you feel better. Change it on an appropriate schedule. Your engine will then probably outlast the car. Everything here is based on opinion anyway. Stop worrying and drive.
But with all that money stuck into the engine, I'd run something expensive like Amsoil. It might not actually help anything, but being able to read all the neat stuff about it on their web site would make me feel better.
Use the latest rated oil in an appropriate viscosity. Use a national brand if it makes you feel better. Change it on an appropriate schedule. Your engine will then probably outlast the car. Everything here is based on opinion anyway. Stop worrying and drive.
But with all that money stuck into the engine, I'd run something expensive like Amsoil. It might not actually help anything, but being able to read all the neat stuff about it on their web site would make me feel better.
The 1st start is most important from what I've seen. As mentioned min of 2000 rpms on any engine with a camshaft, it turns at 1/2 speed and is very vunerable to scuffing at under 1000rpms. Get the off choke as soon as possible to eliminate fuel wash down on the bores. Extra additive in the oil is cheap insurance, many builders fill the pump with it before they bolt it on. The thought is if it's poured in the oil, the damage is done (telltale streaking on the pistons and bores) before it gets mixed with the oil. The GM product is good, torco is my favorite.
get a HDEO for diesel look for a SG or SL grade SM is to low is AW additives
bruce
bruce
Yes, definitely stay away from the SM oils and the 800ppm minimum for Phos (ZDDP). 60's era engines were designed with more sliding friction components and need higher levels of anti-wear additives.
If you are a synthetics fan, Amsoil has some offerings with SG/SH levels of ZDDP.
For conventional oils, Pennzoil Long Life is a good option, the 10W-30, if you can find it on the shelf, or special order it, and the 15W-40 for warmer weather use.
If you are a synthetics fan, Amsoil has some offerings with SG/SH levels of ZDDP.
For conventional oils, Pennzoil Long Life is a good option, the 10W-30, if you can find it on the shelf, or special order it, and the 15W-40 for warmer weather use.
Blue99
Member # 2539
Icon 1 posted December 29, 2005 06:30 PM Profile for Blue99 Send New Private Message Edit/Delete Post "Yes, definitely stay away from the SM oils and the 800ppm minimum for Phos (ZDDP). 60's era engines were designed with more sliding friction components and need higher levels of anti-wear additives."
Again, this is not true. There are plenty of modern engines running SM with more "sliding friction components" (like most OHC or DOHC engines). If SM oil did not apply to 60's era engines, it would not meet previous API certifications. I run SM dino in my Chevy V8s and have no issues whatsoever. Use it without worry.
Member # 2539
Icon 1 posted December 29, 2005 06:30 PM Profile for Blue99 Send New Private Message Edit/Delete Post "Yes, definitely stay away from the SM oils and the 800ppm minimum for Phos (ZDDP). 60's era engines were designed with more sliding friction components and need higher levels of anti-wear additives."
Again, this is not true. There are plenty of modern engines running SM with more "sliding friction components" (like most OHC or DOHC engines). If SM oil did not apply to 60's era engines, it would not meet previous API certifications. I run SM dino in my Chevy V8s and have no issues whatsoever. Use it without worry.
Here is another good option, Valvoline VR-1 10W-30 racing oil with 1300/1200 ppm of ZDDP.
Valvoline VR-1 Product Data Sheet
Valvoline VR-1 Product Description
Valvoline VR-1 Product Data Sheet
Valvoline VR-1 Product Description
Went oil "shopping" today at Advance, Autozone, O'Reilley, and WalMart. The Delo, Delvac, Rotella T, and Pennzoil LL were in 15w-40 weights only. I inquired about a 10w-30 weight in any of these 4 specific oils and the clerks said that weight wasn't available. I'm just a little leery of using a 15w-40 in a newly rebuilt engine (this is AFTER I use the break-in oil). Winter temps. here in NW Tn. get down into the mid-teens and I do start & run this car every 2 wks. or so. I like the idea of the added amt. of ZDDP in the oils I mentioned but just sort of gun shy to use the heavier weight 15w-40. What if I run a good 10w-30 in the SG to SL rating and add a oil booster such as CD-2, Street Legal, High Performance Oil Boost which claims it has 4 times more antiwear additives than an API SL grade motor oil? Big Lots has that stuff in stock at $1.99 for a 16 oz. bottle. Just thinking out loud and wonder what more knowledgable oil gurus think of a 15w-40 vs. a 10w-30 with extra ZDDP added.
You could also try adding VSOT Valvoline Synpower Oil Treatment. There is VOA of it in the analysis section.
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