reasons to replace a water heater.

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: Triple_Se7en
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223


Is it true, if you replace the anode rod like you are suppose to every so many years the heater my last well into it's 20's.


The rod lasts longer many times if you don;t overheat the tank.

If the water is always scalding hot, then you are abusing your water heater.


Ya but, most appliances require 140F to clean well enough that the bacteria that do live in the tank. Just install temper valves at the sinks.
 
My gas water heater is 12 years old. I keep it at the normal setting. although my wife says the water isn't hot enough for her, she likes really hot water for showers. I need to flush it out, I don't think the previous home owner ever did it.
 
I'd say 40+ years out of a hot water tank is amazing. You must not use much water.

We got 11 years out of ours. We owned it the last 3 and it wouldn't drain so I assumed that it wasn't maintained before.

I replaced it myself, which is something I learned a lot in doing so. With the knowledge I gained, I'm defiantly paying someone else next time.

So what was the decision by the warranty company? And if you could add which warranty company, I'd like know. I just let ours expire and probably shouldn't have.
 
They are coming tomorrow to look at it. My question is if they replace it. Should I get a 40 or 50 gal? And which brands are better? Assuming I get a say in the matter
 
If it is electric, Id probably go as big as fits - no stack means no stack losses, and so they are fairly efficient. Get a blanket and pipe insulation.

If gas, Id go for an indirect on a mod/con boiler if possible, which is super efficient and no losses, otherwise a power vent. Regardless, Id go smaller because the recovery can be pretty decent and the losses will be less.

On a heated unit, replace because the HX or heaters or anodes have gone bad and youre leaking. On an indirect, only if it is sprinigng a leak.
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
And which brands are better? Assuming I get a say in the matter


Go online and find the efficiency values. That should be your determinant.
 
Originally Posted By: btanchors
What is the average life of a natural gas-fired water heater? Mine is approaching 20 years old. It works great, no problems, but I am wondering if I should replace it pre-emptively.

The original gas-fired water heater in my house built in 1970 was replaced around 2001-2002.
No maintenance was done, no flushing and no anode rod replaced to either the old one or the current 11-12 years old heater.

May be the water in my area isn't so hard, or may be I have the temperature a little low at around 110-115 in summer and 120-125 in winter.
 
We dumped ours in 2010 or so, and it was a 96 model. No concerns with leaking, etc., never did any flush or maintenance, but I do think the thermocouple might have been getting lazy or out of calibration.

I would have concern with keeping the temperatures in the 110-125 degree range. Supposedly bacteria can grow in that range, and 140 is best. If you dont have a stack with stack losses, I doubt the overall losses would be very significant, and it will take less water to blend to a more comfortable temperature.

That said, I always kept our temps low until we had a baby... Then aerosolized bacteria from the water heater incubator became a little bit more of a concern.
 
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223


Ya but, most appliances require 140F to clean well enough that the bacteria that do live in the tank. Just install temper valves at the sinks.


Any quality modern water usage efficient appliance requiring that temperature should have an internal heater to get whatever temp it needs. I have a basic maytag dishwasher and whirlpool front loading washer and they have their own on-demand heating elements so you don't have to unnecessarily over heat all water in the house.
 
I watched several videos on YouTube about draining/flushing/cleaning water heaters. (The term "hot water heater" is actually redundant.) All the processes seems a little different, especially regarding whether or not to shut of the water supply when draining and whether or not to drain just a little, or the entire tank.

FWIW, here is my process. I turn off the water supply valve. Mine is a ball valve that I installed to replace a gate valve that didn't do squat. Prior to that I used to turn off the water to the entire house. I open the relief valve to break vacuum. You could also accomplish that by opening the hot water tap nearest the heater in your house. I drain only enough out of the drain valve to clear any sediment. In my case, it was less than enough to fill a two gallon bucket.

I found that if I left the water supply on to "power flush" that it just stirred up the sediment and I got little to nothing out. Remember that because there is a dip tube, the cold water hits near the bottom of the tank. With the pressure off most of what settles at the bottom will drain out.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223


Ya but, most appliances require 140F to clean well enough that the bacteria that do live in the tank. Just install temper valves at the sinks.


Any quality modern water usage efficient appliance requiring that temperature should have an internal heater to get whatever temp it needs. I have a basic maytag dishwasher and whirlpool front loading washer and they have their own on-demand heating elements so you don't have to unnecessarily over heat all water in the house.


You say it is unnecessary but those heaters don't do a lot of good in heating the water especially with heat loss in the pipes.

It is not overheating, it is a health issue. I rather not have the bacteria alive in my tank for more than a few mins if that.
 
I adjust the thermostat dial on mine until I get 120 degree water from my kitchen sink. I won't bore you with how I determined that sink to be the one with the most heat loss in the pipe run. I marked that spot on the dial with a Sharpie. It ended up being a bit beyond the "recommended" setting, but it was nowhere near the hottest setting.

The reason most sources recommend staying at or below 120 is to minimize scalding risk. Bacteria is a non-issue to me. My water has plenty of chlorine in it from the city to take care of that. Using that logic, you should be most concerned about your cold tap water since most of you drink it.
 
120-130 deg setting for my water heater, too. No issues here. My 2y/o has yet to be sick. I haven't been sick in 17+ years. My wife doesn't get sick.

Then again, we also don't use anti-bacterial soaps or bleach for cleaning. That could be a bigger factor in our luck vs germs than the hot water temperatures.
 
Originally Posted By: badtlc
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223


Ya but, most appliances require 140F to clean well enough that the bacteria that do live in the tank. Just install temper valves at the sinks.


Any quality modern water usage efficient appliance requiring that temperature should have an internal heater to get whatever temp it needs. I have a basic maytag dishwasher and whirlpool front loading washer and they have their own on-demand heating elements so you don't have to unnecessarily over heat all water in the house.


What "appliances" are we talking about here? The only type I can think of that is relevant to the discussion is a dishwasher. They definitely have heating elements to make up for any shortfall in the water temperature.

Considering that there are bacteria that live in the boiling hot pools at Yellowstone and around thermal vents in the deep ocean I can't possibly imagine there being any issue with 120 degrees v. 140. Another non-issue to worry about.

Dishwasher manuals and Consumer Reports recommend 120 degrees as the setting for homes with dishwashers.
 
Well the warranty company would not allow the plumber to fix it because there isn't a mechanical failure. And it's working at capacity.... Even though its only heating about 20 gallons because its clogged up (plumber said that today) I am beyond aggravated.
 
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Well the warranty company would not allow the plumber to fix it because there isn't a mechanical failure. And it's working at capacity.... Even though its only heating about 20 gallons because its clogged up (plumber said that today) I am beyond aggravated.


Use the L word, and tell them you will seek a full refund of the cost of your warranty.
 
Originally Posted By: Hermann
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Well the warranty company would not allow the plumber to fix it because there isn't a mechanical failure. And it's working at capacity.... Even though its only heating about 20 gallons because its clogged up (plumber said that today) I am beyond aggravated.


Use the L word, and tell them you will seek a full refund of the cost of your warranty.


No, they'll refund the money of the policy in a buyout option. That's available to everyone.

Warranty companies don't usually replace things that aren't broken. My tires didn't get replaced on my car when they only had 1/8th of the tread left.
 
Originally Posted By: SevenBizzos
Originally Posted By: Hermann
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Well the warranty company would not allow the plumber to fix it because there isn't a mechanical failure. And it's working at capacity.... Even though its only heating about 20 gallons because its clogged up (plumber said that today) I am beyond aggravated.


Use the L word, and tell them you will seek a full refund of the cost of your warranty.


No, they'll refund the money of the policy in a buyout option. That's available to everyone.

Warranty companies don't usually replace things that aren't broken. My tires didn't get replaced on my car when they only had 1/8th of the tread left.


The warranty clearly states it will replace the water heater if it leaks or doesn't heat and will repair or replace. But as long as it works at full capacity the water can be discolored but that doesn't matter. They cover everything in the house it's just a loop hole . If it was leaking they would replace it apparently. So the only reason they won't cover it is because it has ruptured and flooded everything. Once it does they'll fix it..... Stupid policy IMO.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

R
  • Locked
Water heater trouble
2
Replies
29
Views
2K
wag123
huffmuds9320
  • Locked
water heater maintenance
2
Replies
29
Views
8K
Virtuoso
J
Hot water heater doesnt seem to work well
2 3
Replies
44
Views
4K
Pablo
R
  • Locked
Jelly like substance-bottom of water heater??
Replies
15
Views
52K
Pop_Rivit
D
  • Locked
Hot water heater
2
Replies
30
Views
9K
tom slick
Back
Top Bottom