Rate my plumbing work

[Owen Lucas]

I have multiple projects I'm tackling within the next few days and would like some input from the collective. I'll have a few plumbing questions and post photos of my work for critique.

1st on the menu is well pressure tank replacement.

 

[Owen Lucas]

The original pressure tank is full of water, and it will not drain out of the bottom opening. 20 gallons x 8lb per gallon + body makes this tank likely over 200lbs which I cannot remove from the elevated crawl space.

#1 How would you get the water out? I'm thinking of drilling a hole through the bottom but am not sure if the water is inside the bladder or in the tank, which would require a super long bit.

#2 I got this lead-free 4" gage from Grainger as it would be easier to see the well pressure. The original gage is stuck at 25 psi.

Well it does not fit due to the shutoff valve and pressure switch. What is your opinion on using 90* elbows to move it out of the way?

 

[eljefino]

If you think water's on the wrong side of the bladder, take the valve core out with a tire tool and tip it over so it drains out the top.

Every additional unneeded plumbing fitting (eg, elbows for your pressure gauge) is a chance for disaster. Is there maybe a flexible line with the same threads? I'd look in the toilet or dishwasher hookup section. Of course if this isn't code, your insurance company might take issue.

 

[Owen Lucas]

Of course if this isn't code, your insurance company might take issue.

You have a good point. I am going to get a smaller replacement gage instead. I did get permits for everything, so we'll see what the inspector says for the rest.

 

[AZjeff]

If you move the pressure switch to the hole the little gauge is in will the big gauge fit in the right hole with a 1/4x1/4 45 deg fitting to tip it to the right? Not a huge chance of failure with one fitting. Nice gauge.

You need permits to replace failed parts?

 

[Owen Lucas]

You need permits to replace failed parts?

I lumped it into the plumbing work permit for water filtration and a new hot water heater. I figure I'd cover my bases just to be safe.

 

[Rand]

air compressor?
air the tank up to about 30psi water will come out the bottom.
if not drill hole in top with a long drillbit and thread in a piece of hose to use as a siphon(or something like that if anyone else has better idea)
sure there are plenty of ways to "git r done" with low mess as the goal.

 

[burbguy82]

The original pressure tank is full of water, and it will not drain out of the bottom opening. 20 gallons x 8lb per gallon + body makes this tank likely over 200lbs which I cannot remove from the elevated crawl space.

#1 How would you get the water out? I'm thinking of drilling a hole through the bottom but am not sure if the water is inside the bladder or in the tank, which would require a super long bit.

#2 I got this lead-free 4" gage from Grainger as it would be easier to see the well pressure. The original gage is stuck at 25 psi.

Well it does not fit due to the shutoff valve and pressure switch. What is your opinion on using 90* elbows to move it out of the way?


View attachment 287530

View attachment 287529View attachment 287528

1. Drill a hole is fine. 45 ACP would be more eventful.

2. No issue with moving the gauge.......90s are fine.

3.The first thread of a tapered thread is known as the "sealing thread".............

4. Pipe dope and thread seal tape are in fact lubricants not sealers..........next time include the first thread with a bit of tape or dope. It is not the sealant that makes it pressure tight it is the threads....think of it like that.

 

[Owen Lucas]

1. Drill a hole is fine. 45 ACP would be more eventful.

Will a 9mm work? And is it ok to discharge in a crawlspace?

3.The first thread of a tapered thread is known as the "sealing thread".............

4. Pipe dope and thread seal tape are in fact lubricants not sealers..........next time include the first thread with a bit of tape or dope. It is not the sealant that makes it pressure tight it is the threads....think of it like that.

Interesting, I thought the tape and dope was to help with sealing. I notice there is a taper to the thread.

Well it had a slight drip so I took it all apart and applied another layer of tape and more dope. The dope is non-hardening so if it leaks again I’ll get hardening dope and wait for it to cure, would that help in any way?

 

[zzyzzx]

Every additional unneeded plumbing fitting (eg, elbows for your pressure gauge) is a chance for disaster.

I'm literally mail ordering a valve today just to avoid having to use an additional fitting (not locally stocked).

 

[KrisZ]

In my limited plumbing experience I noticed that any threaded connection needs to be super tight and I need to use a lot more torque than expected (probably because I’m used to working on cars and motorcycles)

If it leaks, don’t use more dope or tape, tighten the connection some more. Sometimes it can be as little as 1/8 of a turn that will stop the leak, sometimes more.

These things have to use some serious torque sometimes.

 

[burbguy82]

Will a 9mm work? And is it ok to discharge in a crawlspace?



Interesting, I thought the tape and dope was to help with sealing. I notice there is a taper to the thread.

Well it had a slight drip so I took it all apart and applied another layer of tape and more dope. The dope is non-hardening so if it leaks again I’ll get hardening dope and wait for it to cure, would that help in any way?

View attachment 287623

yes 9mm is fine........make sure you use hear protection and eye protection at a minimum.....not quite as eventful, but close.


As to the threads...........think of your application of tape and dope, being "unsheathed" during the tightening sequence......make sense?

The type of dope you use is kind of irrelevant, just make sure it is mixed well.....sometimes that stuff sits on the shelf and the oils float to the top.........

 

[burbguy82]

Oh, and the work is a Fail, sorry.

 

[Owen Lucas]

If it leaks, don’t use more dope or tape, tighten the connection some more. Sometimes it can be as little as 1/8 of a turn that will stop the leak, sometimes more.

These things have to use some serious torque sometimes.

I wish I could crank it tighter but unfortunately I have to align the connecting pipe in the same position as before:

Good news is that the second install attempt does not appear to be leaking. There is moisture on the block below but I believe this is from condensation as the underside of the elbow is not wet. The little drip you see is paint and did not have any moisture, I'll monitor it over the next few days before I am confident it has sealed.

The type of dope you use is kind of irrelevant, just make sure it is mixed well.....sometimes that stuff sits on the shelf and the oils float to the top.........

Good point about the dope, there was a slight discoloration at the top. I'm using Blue Monster from HD.

 

[Owen Lucas]

While I wait for the new gage for the well manifold I started the water filtration setup by filling the tanks with resin. Due to a higher than normal arsenic level here of 15 ppb (50% higher than max limit of 10 ppb) I decided to get an arsenic removal system and a new softener.

The 1st tank is the water softener, 2nd is iron removal which is supposed to help with arsenic removal in the 3rd tank. Each had a specific resin to add with gravel 1st on the bottom.

Question.

Would you elevate the middle and right tank so that the valve heads would be level or leave it be and plumb around the height difference?

Leaving the tanks at the current height will allow me to space them closer to each other as the valve body connectors rotate considering I use 12 and 18" SS flex pipes.

 

[burbguy82]

While I wait for the new gage for the well manifold I started the water filtration setup by filling the tanks with resin. Due to a higher than normal arsenic level here of 15 ppb (50% higher than max limit of 10 ppb) I decided to get an arsenic removal system and a new softener.

The 1st tank is the water softener, 2nd is iron removal which is supposed to help with arsenic removal in the 3rd tank. Each had a specific resin to add with gravel 1st on the bottom.

Question.

Would you elevate the middle and right tank so that the valve heads would be level or leave it be and plumb around the height difference?

Leaving the tanks at the current height will allow me to space them closer to each other as the valve body connectors rotate considering I use 12 and 18" SS flex pipes.
View attachment 287706


View attachment 287708

The third tank is likely an acid neutralizer. Calcium Bicarbonate fill I think.

Be careful with those 90s in the pic. Also, put you a filter (cartridge type) BEFORE the softener head.......it will save the gearset and seals in the long run., maybe 100 bucks............like the nasty one on the middle of my pic:

THe second and third tanks left to right..............they are passive.....just in and out, no gear like the first unit?

 

[burbguy82]

I did this over the years, added and adjusted here and there. I can change my hose bibb line from treated to untreated, isolate the treatment system, observe water before the system (nasty filter) and observe water after the treatment (clean larger canister filters.)

on the softener (black tank on the left) you will see a trail of white.....that was a leak, caused by nasties getting into the gear head of the softener, as mentioned in the previous post. If you have clean water, there is no issue for you, if your water is questionable, install a protective filter...........the one in the middle (nasty stains) has a reusable screen, nothing special.

 

[Owen Lucas]

I decided to go with sharkbite fittings and valves to speed up the work. I have a soldering setup and have soldered and brazed before and HVAC apprentice. I just need to get this job done and don't have time to rough things up perfectly and risk leaks, it's been 10 years since I operated a torch.

What is your experience with Shark Bite fittings?

Also, what do you think of this setup. Should I place valves before and or after the filter strainer and main filter?

I will be installing everything on a plywood board mounted to the cinderblock wall.

 

[Owen Lucas]

The third tank is likely an acid neutralizer. Calcium Bicarbonate fill I think.

Be careful with those 90s in the pic. Also, put you a filter (cartridge type) BEFORE the softener head.......it will save the gearset and seals in the long run., maybe 100 bucks............like the nasty one on the middle of my pic:View attachment 287711

THe second and third tanks left to right..............they are passive.....just in and out, no gear like the first unit?

That is quite the setup! I have a giant 2' tall filter being installed with a spin down sediment filter before that.

 

[eljefino]

I'm no pipe fitter but I like the idea of being able to torque pipe thread as much as it needs without worrying about alignment with other pipes or features. So sharkbites absolutely have their place in my arsenal as well. Just make sure the outside of the pipe you're stuffing in there is properly smoothed so it won't nick the o-ring.