I've noticed I've been losing coolant slowly in my 3.0 Ranger, looked underneath last night and I can see where its leaking from the timing cover, common problem on 3.0 Vulcans. Easiest ways seems to remove the radiator and all accessories off the front end, and to do it that way. The only problem, from what I've read, is two bolts go through the oil pan into the cover, and its hard to remove the cover without damaging the oil pan gasket. The only way to change the oil pan gasket on a 2WD is to remove the engine, something I dont want to do unless necessary. I will definitely run the right coolant with distilled water this time around, I had been running Peak 50/50 since I flushed it 22k miles ago when I got the truck. Id like to take this truck to 500k if possible, never thought I'd enjoy a standard, but I truly do.
ranger timing cover gasket
- Thread starter mobilaltima
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Coolant Leak - Been there, Done that.
I had a Coolant leak at Timing Chain Cover.
Because of inexperience and no helper, I had a Dealer fix it (approx. $950. ouch).
4 years later it was leaking again.
This time I went to an Indy Mechanic ($850. ouch again).
It was a one day job.
The engine stayed in the truck.
Two Weeks later I see it's dripping Oil at Oil Pan GASKET.
Indy Mechanic fixed oil leak under warranty.
He had to change the Oil Pan GASKET.
He lowered the Pan and slip the GASKET in.
I question why I was getting the Coolant leak at all.
I was using Peak ALL Make/ALL Model Coolant.
Did that eat away at the Timing Cover Gasket ? ? ?
I now use Zerez G-05
The Mechanic said; "it was leaking because of the expansion/contraction of
two different metals (aluminum & Steel).
Good luck.
Here are Links to posts when I was asking for help.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4101160/Indy_Mechanic_-_Leak,_I_suppli#Post4101160
I had a Coolant leak at Timing Chain Cover.
Because of inexperience and no helper, I had a Dealer fix it (approx. $950. ouch).
4 years later it was leaking again.
This time I went to an Indy Mechanic ($850. ouch again).
It was a one day job.
The engine stayed in the truck.
Two Weeks later I see it's dripping Oil at Oil Pan GASKET.
Indy Mechanic fixed oil leak under warranty.
He had to change the Oil Pan GASKET.
He lowered the Pan and slip the GASKET in.
I question why I was getting the Coolant leak at all.
I was using Peak ALL Make/ALL Model Coolant.
Did that eat away at the Timing Cover Gasket ? ? ?
I now use Zerez G-05
The Mechanic said; "it was leaking because of the expansion/contraction of
two different metals (aluminum & Steel).
Good luck.
Here are Links to posts when I was asking for help.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4101160/Indy_Mechanic_-_Leak,_I_suppli#Post4101160
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On the Vulcan to make a permanent repair use permatex black around coolant holes. I used Fel Pro gaskets and the permatex never leaked again.
Loosen all the pan bolts but do not remove them, this will allow you to drop the pan slightly to prevent damage to the molded rubber gasket.
On the cover do not use RTV on the gasket, because of the dissimilar metal issue it will eventually break the seal. Instead use Hylomar sealer on the gaskets, gasket tear and separation is also prevented by using this on both sides of it.
This product is far superior to RTV in these applications, it was developed by Rolls Royce for problem sealing areas on jet turbines, it remains flexible and will not tear or loose its sealing abilities when subjected to dissimilar metal expansion rates.
https://www.amazon.com/Hylomar-HUBR02-Polyurethane-Sealant-Tube/dp/B007PBCZCI
http://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm
On the cover do not use RTV on the gasket, because of the dissimilar metal issue it will eventually break the seal. Instead use Hylomar sealer on the gaskets, gasket tear and separation is also prevented by using this on both sides of it.
This product is far superior to RTV in these applications, it was developed by Rolls Royce for problem sealing areas on jet turbines, it remains flexible and will not tear or loose its sealing abilities when subjected to dissimilar metal expansion rates.
https://www.amazon.com/Hylomar-HUBR02-Polyurethane-Sealant-Tube/dp/B007PBCZCI
http://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/hylomar.htm
My 01 Escape with 228k seeps oil from the timing chain cover and is also losing some coolant. I don't plan to have it much longer so I am trying some Bars Stop Leak, the type for coolant leak and the one for oil leak. I know from experience that it will be a temporary fix at best.
Good post Trav.
You might want to do the timing chain while you're in there. Also test or replace the radiator cap with a new Motorcraft one. The starter trick will get the crank bolt loose. I think you can leave the accessories mounted and just move the mount forward.
Fords are not engineered in the smallest way to be repaired. The 3.0 Vulcan is prone to cracking heads if overheated. Keep ahead of the coolant leak until you fix this. Would Bars Leak help you slow down the leak? My 94 Ranger leaks every fluid except brake fluid. By keeping an eye on levels, I have tap danced around disaster.
Originally Posted By: andyd
Fords are not engineered in the smallest way to be repaired. The 3.0 Vulcan is prone to cracking heads if overheated. Keep ahead of the coolant leak until you fix this. Would Bars Leak help you slow down the leak? My 94 Ranger leaks every fluid except brake fluid. By keeping an eye on levels, I have tap danced around disaster.
A 3.0L Vulcan Ranger is definitely not the worst timing cover out there. Sure, there are easier ones, but a whole lot are far worse to replace. If someone overheats a Vulcan to the point it cracks a head, they are capable of doing that to anything with a gas engine.
Trav's method sounds like the best bet. I've never dealt with the issue personally, but I've definitely heard about it. My truck has had nothing but G05, John Deere Cool-Gard II, and distilled water in it's cooling system though. Not sure if that has helped or if I have just been lucky.
Fords are not engineered in the smallest way to be repaired. The 3.0 Vulcan is prone to cracking heads if overheated. Keep ahead of the coolant leak until you fix this. Would Bars Leak help you slow down the leak? My 94 Ranger leaks every fluid except brake fluid. By keeping an eye on levels, I have tap danced around disaster.
A 3.0L Vulcan Ranger is definitely not the worst timing cover out there. Sure, there are easier ones, but a whole lot are far worse to replace. If someone overheats a Vulcan to the point it cracks a head, they are capable of doing that to anything with a gas engine.
Trav's method sounds like the best bet. I've never dealt with the issue personally, but I've definitely heard about it. My truck has had nothing but G05, John Deere Cool-Gard II, and distilled water in it's cooling system though. Not sure if that has helped or if I have just been lucky.
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