Quick Release Oil Drain Plug

97K15004WD said:
Their product looks just like the No-Spill we've been selling for years....

www.nospillsystems.com

The Best Quick Oil Drain Plugs - No-Spill Systems

Upgrade to convenience with our Quick Oil Drain Plug – no more messy changes or stripped pans. Effortlessly replaces your existing plug, no special tools needed
www.nospillsystems.com www.nospillsystems.com
Click to expand...
That one appears to be made of brass. I think all of them of this type are going to be similar.
 
My son's Ford Explorer has a plastic one just like this. Very neat and clean. Ford mechanics love 'em;

yL56Km20uQZRtqH5xxHqs1X2kO-KM6h04Bgtkk_wqD8.jpg
 
JeffKeryk said:
I replace the filter every other service. Lexus calls for 10K OCIs; I do 5K. Remember, they are idiots. The MityVac is a great tool, but does not work for every engine. Last time, I did the "how much oil is left" test. Not much...
Check out my "Post your latest oil change", May 11, 2021, post #14,929, which was the prior GS service.

The MityVac comes with 2 dip stick tubes; I gave up on the larger one. You can fish around better. Make sure the oil is at least warm.
Use the dip stick to estimate how far to stab the extract tube.
Once it starts to suck air, I fish the tube around to suck a little more out. It works pretty well, IMO.
The nice thing is, you reverse a switch and pump it out to your recycle containers.
As far as time, it is far faster than ramps, floor jacks, jack stands, oil drain pans, dirty clothes to crawl around on the ground, SPILLAGE, cat litter, rags, 14mm wrench for Toyletta drain plug, 20 cent warsher, Snap On torque wrench, etc.
5 to 10 minutes. Not bad.

I suggest giving it a try. And post your results.
Click to expand...

Heck, 5k on synthetic - the MV could leave a half quart and it will not matter … 😎
 
Thanks for the replies and input suggestions. I decided to go with the Valvomax. I'll post pics once its been installed and a review with my experience.
 
I had a few Fumoto valve on My 2 VWs for almost 20 years. The valve held up well but the drain time was very long. I would be looking at one of the newer designs when I purchase again.
 
Put a ronin in the f150 last oil change, dI’d my first change with it yesterday. Definitely better than the oil shower plastic plug but still a PITA. That **** sway bar is just right in the way. The ronin drain tool is surprisingly sharp edged, too.
 
It looks like the cap on the Valvomax is just put on finger tight ? Or is there some kind of system that keeps it tight and doesn't require any kind of tool ?

I have been considering a Fumuto for my Mazda CX 5. The factory plug is almost horizontal and when you first remove it it is hard to gauge where the stream will hit the drain container for a few seconds until it slows and starts draining to a different impact point. So I usually get some spillage, luckily I put one of those steel sheet pans under the car to catch what misses the drain container.

I like the idea of being able to control the force of the initial flow and then open the valve fully once I know where the impact zone is.
Recommendations ?
 
I absolutely endorse the MityVac along with @JeffKeryk !
It unfortunately only works on about 1/2 of my vehicles, but if it works it extracts all of the oil.
Also keep in mind no reasonable method gets 100% of the oil, as ~5-15% remains in the block. So even if the MV leaves a little in (which mine seems to effectively empty the pan), it's irrelevant.

Advantages are that it's much easier, much faster, a lot less messy, and I can visually SEE how much was extracted. Seeing how much is extracted is excellent, b/c that's exactly what I replace. No risk of overfilling it if the level was previously correct. I swear by it for OCs.

As for changing the filter, I'm changing oil/filters on time, not miles. Regardless, I'd be doing 5k or 6 month intervals and doing the filter at 10k and 1 year intervals, plus or minus. Using premium oils and filters of course. So the filters are done every 2nd or 3rd change depending on time/miles.

MV is also a real time/money/mess saving device for other fluids, like ATF, gear oil, steering fluids, coolant, etc. Mine has more than paid for the $100 cost of the tool with just a few ATF drain and fills, rather than pan drops.

If the MV works on your models, I highly encourage it.
 
DwightFrye said:
It looks like the cap on the Valvomax is just put on finger tight ? Or is there some kind of system that keeps it tight and doesn't require any kind of tool ?

I have been considering a Fumuto for my Mazda CX 5. The factory plug is almost horizontal and when you first remove it it is hard to gauge where the stream will hit the drain container for a few seconds until it slows and starts draining to a different impact point. So I usually get some spillage, luckily I put one of those steel sheet pans under the car to catch what misses the drain container.

I like the idea of being able to control the force of the initial flow and then open the valve fully once I know where the impact zone is.
Recommendations ?
Click to expand...
The inside cap has a rubber seal that when the cap is tightened down the rubber seal applies pressure that not only provides a second layer of oil leak protection but does keep the cap from unscrewing. No tools required except for the initial install.
 
My new Jaguar is designed to have the oil extracted out of the top. There is a tube in the center of the filler pipe that you are to slip the extraction tube over, and it also has a top mounted cannister filter. One should very rarely need to jack the car up, remove all the aerodynamic undercladding and remove the conventional drain plug.

I will be ordering a Mityvac very soon and doing the first oil & filter change. I'm actually looking forward to it. No more crawling around on a cold concrete floor after pulling the car up on ramps and removing the underbody access panel nor dealing with transferring the used oil from the catch container by funneling it back into the empty jugs for recycling.

For my CX 5 I think I will install a Fumoto valve on the next change. Some people have suggested to measure how far up into the pan that the Fumoto threads extend, and then taking a Dremel tool and cutting a U shaped notch down from the end of the threads to help ensure that the threads aren't sticking up above the bottom of the pan so much that it is above the level of the remaining oil.
Has anyone done this modification ?
 
DwightFrye said:
My new Jaguar is designed to have the oil extracted out of the top. There is a tube in the center of the filler pipe that you are to slip the extraction tube over, and it also has a top mounted cannister filter. One should very rarely need to jack the car up, remove all the aerodynamic undercladding and remove the conventional drain plug.

I will be ordering a Mityvac very soon and doing the first oil & filter change. I'm actually looking forward to it. No more crawling around on a cold concrete floor after pulling the car up on ramps and removing the underbody access panel nor dealing with transferring the used oil from the catch container by funneling it back into the empty jugs for recycling.

For my CX 5 I think I will install a Fumoto valve on the next change. Some people have suggested to measure how far up into the pan that the Fumoto threads extend, and then taking a Dremel tool and cutting a U shaped notch down from the end of the threads to help ensure that the threads aren't sticking up above the bottom of the pan so much that it is above the level of the remaining oil.
Has anyone done this modification ?
Click to expand...

I don't think you will ever be able to get every single drop of oil out of the oil pan either by conventional method or the extractor because too many factors are involved. And needless to say, one of that major factor being the design of the pan and the location of the plug. Either way, if you are worried about it being an issue then I would recommend against using ANY quick drain valve. As for modification to the valve, I would recommend against doing that as well. The valve, just like the plug, needs to be torqued down properly to specification. Messing with the threads potentially can interfere with that and can cause issues later.

I am old school and I practice what I have been taught from people who are much wiser than me when it comes to oil change. Change oil while it is nice and hot, and the use of Stahlbus valve (My QDV of choice) allows me to do just that without burning myself. Give it as much time as possible and reasonable to drain and wait until the engine is cooled down before threading the oil filter and drain plug back (Which is N/A in the case of QDV) on to avoid over torqueing. Just my opinion.
 
Performed the oil change and just installed the Valvomax. Simple to install and now I'll "drive" and wait for the day to change the oil.
IMG_20211027_151907404.jpg


IMG_20211027_152255054.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
Valvomax drain plug "system"
2 3
Replies
54
Views
5K
Kantaro
C
Stripped transmission drain plug
2 3
Replies
50
Views
3K
The Critic
NormanBuntz
Copper oil drain plug washers for some Asian vehicles
Replies
19
Views
2K
RaymondP
G
Oil pan bolt threads are weak, going to install a Fumoto valve. How to make sure it stays?
2
Replies
30
Views
3K
srfdude
S
Self tapping oil drain plug?
Replies
16
Views
6K
spasm3
Back
Top