That one appears to be made of brass. I think all of them of this type are going to be similar.
Quick Release Oil Drain Plug
- Thread starter Rex
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My son's Ford Explorer has a plastic one just like this. Very neat and clean. Ford mechanics love 'em;
4WD
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4WD
$50 site donor 2025
Friends don’t let friends change at 3K
This thing looks like it would be a pain in the behind.My son's Ford Explorer has a plastic one just like this. Very neat and clean. Ford mechanics love 'em;
You should see the oil gush out!
I back it out part way, slowly, to control the flow. They aren't that bad...
Nowadays, I am all about the MityVac.
Put a ronin in the f150 last oil change, dI’d my first change with it yesterday. Definitely better than the oil shower plastic plug but still a PITA. That **** sway bar is just right in the way. The ronin drain tool is surprisingly sharp edged, too.
It looks like the cap on the Valvomax is just put on finger tight ? Or is there some kind of system that keeps it tight and doesn't require any kind of tool ?
I have been considering a Fumuto for my Mazda CX 5. The factory plug is almost horizontal and when you first remove it it is hard to gauge where the stream will hit the drain container for a few seconds until it slows and starts draining to a different impact point. So I usually get some spillage, luckily I put one of those steel sheet pans under the car to catch what misses the drain container.
I like the idea of being able to control the force of the initial flow and then open the valve fully once I know where the impact zone is.
Recommendations ?
I have been considering a Fumuto for my Mazda CX 5. The factory plug is almost horizontal and when you first remove it it is hard to gauge where the stream will hit the drain container for a few seconds until it slows and starts draining to a different impact point. So I usually get some spillage, luckily I put one of those steel sheet pans under the car to catch what misses the drain container.
I like the idea of being able to control the force of the initial flow and then open the valve fully once I know where the impact zone is.
Recommendations ?
I believe "Ford mechanics love 'em" was typed in sarcasm font.
I absolutely endorse the MityVac along with @JeffKeryk !
It unfortunately only works on about 1/2 of my vehicles, but if it works it extracts all of the oil.
Also keep in mind no reasonable method gets 100% of the oil, as ~5-15% remains in the block. So even if the MV leaves a little in (which mine seems to effectively empty the pan), it's irrelevant.
Advantages are that it's much easier, much faster, a lot less messy, and I can visually SEE how much was extracted. Seeing how much is extracted is excellent, b/c that's exactly what I replace. No risk of overfilling it if the level was previously correct. I swear by it for OCs.
As for changing the filter, I'm changing oil/filters on time, not miles. Regardless, I'd be doing 5k or 6 month intervals and doing the filter at 10k and 1 year intervals, plus or minus. Using premium oils and filters of course. So the filters are done every 2nd or 3rd change depending on time/miles.
MV is also a real time/money/mess saving device for other fluids, like ATF, gear oil, steering fluids, coolant, etc. Mine has more than paid for the $100 cost of the tool with just a few ATF drain and fills, rather than pan drops.
If the MV works on your models, I highly encourage it.
It unfortunately only works on about 1/2 of my vehicles, but if it works it extracts all of the oil.
Also keep in mind no reasonable method gets 100% of the oil, as ~5-15% remains in the block. So even if the MV leaves a little in (which mine seems to effectively empty the pan), it's irrelevant.
Advantages are that it's much easier, much faster, a lot less messy, and I can visually SEE how much was extracted. Seeing how much is extracted is excellent, b/c that's exactly what I replace. No risk of overfilling it if the level was previously correct. I swear by it for OCs.
As for changing the filter, I'm changing oil/filters on time, not miles. Regardless, I'd be doing 5k or 6 month intervals and doing the filter at 10k and 1 year intervals, plus or minus. Using premium oils and filters of course. So the filters are done every 2nd or 3rd change depending on time/miles.
MV is also a real time/money/mess saving device for other fluids, like ATF, gear oil, steering fluids, coolant, etc. Mine has more than paid for the $100 cost of the tool with just a few ATF drain and fills, rather than pan drops.
If the MV works on your models, I highly encourage it.
I've got the Fumoto on all 3 cars and I love them!
I’ve used fumoto for a long time on other vehicles. Our current ones I didn’t even bother.
The inside cap has a rubber seal that when the cap is tightened down the rubber seal applies pressure that not only provides a second layer of oil leak protection but does keep the cap from unscrewing. No tools required except for the initial install.
I googled Valvomax and the first result was As Seen On Scotty Kilmer Show
...why is he still relevant?
My new Jaguar is designed to have the oil extracted out of the top. There is a tube in the center of the filler pipe that you are to slip the extraction tube over, and it also has a top mounted cannister filter. One should very rarely need to jack the car up, remove all the aerodynamic undercladding and remove the conventional drain plug.
I will be ordering a Mityvac very soon and doing the first oil & filter change. I'm actually looking forward to it. No more crawling around on a cold concrete floor after pulling the car up on ramps and removing the underbody access panel nor dealing with transferring the used oil from the catch container by funneling it back into the empty jugs for recycling.
For my CX 5 I think I will install a Fumoto valve on the next change. Some people have suggested to measure how far up into the pan that the Fumoto threads extend, and then taking a Dremel tool and cutting a U shaped notch down from the end of the threads to help ensure that the threads aren't sticking up above the bottom of the pan so much that it is above the level of the remaining oil.
Has anyone done this modification ?
I will be ordering a Mityvac very soon and doing the first oil & filter change. I'm actually looking forward to it. No more crawling around on a cold concrete floor after pulling the car up on ramps and removing the underbody access panel nor dealing with transferring the used oil from the catch container by funneling it back into the empty jugs for recycling.
For my CX 5 I think I will install a Fumoto valve on the next change. Some people have suggested to measure how far up into the pan that the Fumoto threads extend, and then taking a Dremel tool and cutting a U shaped notch down from the end of the threads to help ensure that the threads aren't sticking up above the bottom of the pan so much that it is above the level of the remaining oil.
Has anyone done this modification ?
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I don't think you will ever be able to get every single drop of oil out of the oil pan either by conventional method or the extractor because too many factors are involved. And needless to say, one of that major factor being the design of the pan and the location of the plug. Either way, if you are worried about it being an issue then I would recommend against using ANY quick drain valve. As for modification to the valve, I would recommend against doing that as well. The valve, just like the plug, needs to be torqued down properly to specification. Messing with the threads potentially can interfere with that and can cause issues later.
I am old school and I practice what I have been taught from people who are much wiser than me when it comes to oil change. Change oil while it is nice and hot, and the use of Stahlbus valve (My QDV of choice) allows me to do just that without burning myself. Give it as much time as possible and reasonable to drain and wait until the engine is cooled down before threading the oil filter and drain plug back (Which is N/A in the case of QDV) on to avoid over torqueing. Just my opinion.
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