Quick question about thin motor oil, specifically xW-20

Always found it curious on our 2012 Toyota Sienna owners manual says 0w-20. But can use 5w-20 in an emergency (paraphrasing) and recommend changing back to 0w-20 ASAP? 5W-20 that much different that 0W-20 outside of super cold conditions?
higher viscosity index for 0W-20, so thinner oil below 40C typically. That means less fuel consumption right after cold start.
 
That is Toyota showing the Earth Folks that they are doing their best to meet CAFE standards. Its called "one in their column".
My 2008 Tacoma had pretty much the same statement in the owners manual.
Mine goes on to say that under extreme operating conditions like high heat or towing, a higher viscosity will offer better protection.

So, hidden beneath the “one in their column” is a clear, practical statement on using a higher grade than 0W20.
 
Mine goes on to say that under extreme operating conditions like high heat or towing, a higher viscosity will offer better protection.

So, hidden beneath the “one in their column” is a clear, practical statement on using a higher grade than 0W20.
The 2019 Corolla owner's manual has that same exact statement.
 
What can you tow with a Corolla?
It was the blurb about operating in extreme conditions, that a thicker viscosity would offer better engine protection. And then went on to say to switch back to 0W16 for "better fuel economy".

But,I do see Corollas,Hyundias,Kias,Civics,etc,with towing hitches on them.
 
Mine goes on to say that under extreme operating conditions like high heat or towing, a higher viscosity will offer better protection.

So, hidden beneath the “one in their column” is a clear, practical statement on using a higher grade than 0W20.
Yes, the hidden message by the engineers is that viscosity matters when it comes to MOFT to prevent metal-to-metal contact between moving parts and engine wear.
 
Not related at all.

Newer cars have more covers and better insulation that keep the heat in. My wife's truck has active grille shutters and it gets up to operating temperature insanely fast. The Jeep has a very protected engine bay and holds heat for quite a while too, but it doesn't get up to operating temp as fast. The 5.4L in our Expedition (that spec'd 5w-20) took forever to get up to temp and would shed heat very fast in the winter because everything was quite open and the rad was massive.
^^^This!^^^
Just curious. You stated quick question. Are we supposed to read it quickly, or answer it quickly? :D
 
Quick update. I had the verbiage off slightly. Mine doesn’t say “towing” it says “high speed or under extreme load conditions”. And it says “better suited” not “better protection”. Screenshot below. Highlighting is mine
4F525B67-54A4-4807-817F-605084F764D2.png
 
Quick update. I had the verbiage off slightly. Mine doesn’t say “towing” it says “high speed or under extreme load conditions”. And it says “better suited” not “better protection”.
Close enough ... bottom line is they know engines being pushed beyond just "tootling around" will benefit from a thicker oil.
 
Quick update. I had the verbiage off slightly. Mine doesn’t say “towing” it says “high speed or under extreme load conditions”. And it says “better suited” not “better protection”. Screenshot below. Highlighting is mine View attachment 38557
Yep been running 5-10w30’s and 0w40s in my Toyota’s for a while. The full saps 0w40 in the port injected 4Runner and the Tacoma with dual mode injection (port and direct) usually gets 5-10w30. Ran FS 0w40 for an interval and didn’t get any issues though.
I will also run a 0w20 when the 4 runner is just being used to putter around and get groceries.
 
Quick update. I had the verbiage off slightly. Mine doesn’t say “towing” it says “high speed or under extreme load conditions”. And it says “better suited” not “better protection”. Screenshot below. Highlighting is mine View attachment 38557
NICE!! That's EXACTLY what the 2019 Corolla's owner's manual says. I think us "thickies" may be smarter than we look:D
 
Just like it has been mentioned before modern cars are designed to heat up as fast as possible, and maintain the heat in the engine bay as long as possible.

In modern cars the engine is basicly built in an ''air tight'' shelter and the only thing that sees airflow is the radiator. (which some times also has flaps in front of it)
Exhaust systems are also heavily insulated or made from twinwalled material to keep the heat in the exhaust for fast catalyst / DPF warm up.

With my bmw e90 325i i also noticed that even after being parked for 4 to 5 hours in freezing conditions the motor oil and coolant was still around 100F.
 
I will answer this way.
First, let me say I have driven two different Tacomas, both with the 2.7L 4 cylinder engine. 900,000 miles accrued. If I were ever to get back into that realm, my oil choices would be...
--Mobil 1 ESP X2 0W20.
--Mobil 1 EP 0w20.
 
Not related at all.

Newer cars have more covers and better insulation that keep the heat in. My wife's truck has active grille shutters and it gets up to operating temperature insanely fast. The Jeep has a very protected engine bay and holds heat for quite a while too, but it doesn't get up to operating temp as fast. The 5.4L in our Expedition (that spec'd 5w-20) took forever to get up to temp and would shed heat very fast in the winter because everything was quite open and the rad was massive.
They had some NASCAR teams in the late 70s who did lots of high & low tech innovations to get an extra jump on others. One of those teams invented an active grille guard similar to what your truck has. Some were also used in drag racing for quick heat control. Lots of them were on Dodge / Chrysler race cars.
 
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This is what Toyota recommends for the fj cruiser 1GR engine .
can someone explain how 5w30 is not ok but 10w30 is? they both have the same hot viscosity .
 
I wonder if its just how the Taurus behaves.

I changed the oil from 5W-20 (spec'd for. Its the Vulcan) to 0W-20 and in the cold it takes long to warm up, in the hot its medium, maybe medium fast if stops are involved warmup time, but then it takes that temp gauge a long time to come down once operated. Car has absolutno mechanical issues, except from an intermittent pulley ? squeak (that my mechanic said seems to be loudest from the intake, which, oddly enough, it does seem to be) and maybe a slightly worn hub bearing from that flat. But its still quiet most the time and overall I wouldn't say it has a "problem."

Just an observation.
My Taurus Vulcan takes an obscene amount of time to warm up, esp. in the winter weather here in NY. I can go about 7 miles before the needle even budges on the gauge. First warm day I'm changing the thermostat, I'm thinking it may be stuck partially open. Although in the over 30 cars I've owned and wrenched on, I have yet to see a faulty T-Stat at all. **** thing is cold blooded for sure.
 
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