Quick question about thin motor oil, specifically xW-20

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Very quick question about thin motor oil, specifically 0W-20 or 5W-20; there is no other 20 grade that I know of besides those two.. Am I imagining things, or does an engine "hold heat" longer with the thin motor oil coating all or most of the inside of it? Versus, a 30 or anything thicker.

I used to think it be the opposite, but I've had some pretty long periods of time of car parked and come back out to it and the engine still has full heat. I THINK it is longer, engine holding this heat from operation, on thin oil.

Nonsense?

Or, is the thinner oil distributing more heat more evenly across the whole engine, allowing it to sit with "heat held" or "hot soak" longer..

Or, again. Is that nonsense?
 
Not related at all.

Newer cars have more covers and better insulation that keep the heat in. My wife's truck has active grille shutters and it gets up to operating temperature insanely fast. The Jeep has a very protected engine bay and holds heat for quite a while too, but it doesn't get up to operating temp as fast. The 5.4L in our Expedition (that spec'd 5w-20) took forever to get up to temp and would shed heat very fast in the winter because everything was quite open and the rad was massive.
 
Not related at all.

Newer cars have more covers and better insulation that keep the heat in. My wife's truck has active grille shutters and it gets up to operating temperature insanely fast. The Jeep has a very protected engine bay and holds heat for quite a while too, but it doesn't get up to operating temp as fast. The 5.4L in our Expedition (that spec'd 5w-20) took forever to get up to temp and would shed heat very fast in the winter because everything was quite open and the rad was massive.
I wonder if its just how the Taurus behaves.

I changed the oil from 5W-20 (spec'd for. Its the Vulcan) to 0W-20 and in the cold it takes long to warm up, in the hot its medium, maybe medium fast if stops are involved warmup time, but then it takes that temp gauge a long time to come down once operated. Car has absolutno mechanical issues, except from an intermittent pulley ? squeak (that my mechanic said seems to be loudest from the intake, which, oddly enough, it does seem to be) and maybe a slightly worn hub bearing from that flat. But its still quiet most the time and overall I wouldn't say it has a "problem."

Just an observation.
 
Always found it curious on our 2012 Toyota Sienna owners manual says 0w-20. But can use 5w-20 in an emergency (paraphrasing) and recommend changing back to 0w-20 ASAP? 5W-20 that much different that 0W-20 outside of super cold conditions?
 
Always found it curious on our 2012 Toyota Sienna owners manual says 0w-20. But can use 5w-20 in an emergency (paraphrasing) and recommend changing back to 0w-20 ASAP? 5W-20 that much different that 0W-20 outside of super cold conditions?
That is Toyota showing the Earth Folks that they are doing their best to meet CAFE standards. Its called "one in their column".
My 2008 Tacoma had pretty much the same statement in the owners manual.
 
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That is Toyota showing the Earth Folks that they are doing their best to meet CAFE standards. Its called "one in their column".
I never did want to believe my Uncle when he told me they only said xW-20 "For CAFE reasons" and that a 30 would be better.. but, after some time, I'm starting to think he may have been on to something.
 
I would think oil thickness (unless we are talking about extreme difference in viscosity) would have little effect on an enignes ability to absorb and maintain heat.
 
Are you not getting enough attention in the other 100 threads you’re in so you have to deliberately post the most discussed topic in yet another thread?
No, I had to ask if the thin oil had anything to do with holding heat longer. Thank you, though.
 
I wonder if its just how the Taurus behaves.

I changed the oil from 5W-20 (spec'd for. Its the Vulcan) to 0W-20 and in the cold it takes long to warm up, in the hot its medium, maybe medium fast if stops are involved warmup time, but then it takes that temp gauge a long time to come down once operated. Car has absolutno mechanical issues, except from an intermittent pulley ? squeak (that my mechanic said seems to be loudest from the intake, which, oddly enough, it does seem to be) and maybe a slightly worn hub bearing from that flat. But its still quiet most the time and overall I wouldn't say it has a "problem."

Just an observation.
Those old iron block engines take awhile to heat up. My 91 Taurus 3.0L is like that with 10w30.
 
I would think oil thickness (unless we are talking about extreme difference in viscosity) would have little effect on an enignes ability to absorb and maintain heat.


I would think the mass of the engine is what holds the heat. The oil will cool off before the block and heads and all the internal parts.
 
I never did want to believe my Uncle when he told me they only said xW-20 "For CAFE reasons" and that a 30 would be better.. but, after some time, I'm starting to think he may have been on to something.
He knew what he was talking about ... use of thinner and thinner oil is because car makers want to achieve as many CAFE credits as possible.
 
As far as any mass retaining heat, it depends on the mass/density of the material and it's heat capacity. The denser the material, the more heat it can hold at X temperature, and the longer it will take for that heat to leave the mass if all other factors are held constant. "Material A" at 200F that is much denser than "Material B" can hold more heat energy than "Material B" at the same 200F. But the density difference between motor oils is pretty small, so nobody behind the wheel is going to be able to tell any difference. In a controlled lab setting with sensitive and accurate measurement tools you might see a slight difference based on viscosity/density of the oils being compared.
 
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And... The ambient air temperature and wind make a difference too Zee.

In cold temps in the 20s and colder my car cools down a fair amount faster than if it's in the 50s or 60s or warmer than that.
 
And... The ambient air temperature and wind make a difference too Zee.

In cold temps in the 20s and colder my car cools down a fair amount faster than if it's in the 50s or 60s or warmer than that.
Yep, definitely ... but I mentioned "all other factors are held constant", and was just focusing on only the heat capacity at X temperature between different oil viscosity, which would basically be undetectable (except in a lab), and in the hair splitting realm. Environmental conditions like you mentioned would have much more effect compared to the viscosity difference.
 
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