Guys Ive changed Auto transmission fluid for many years. The old way. Drop the pan and try to catch the oil comeing out in several directions .LOL... But in following a below post about Mercon V a link took you to a Ford T Bird site. A method in draing they listed there was take a Transmission cooler line off and crank up the engine and let it pump it's self out. Now that sound great. But is that safe to do that. The guy that wrote the info is or was a Fored Transmission Engineer . Jerry K. It would be sweet to be able to do it that way. I hate spending the money for ahop to do it when I can do it a well over half the cost myself., TIA OILER
Question on procedure to drain Auto Tranny fluid.
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If I have read the method you refer to. I belive it empties the primarily the pan so that you don't take a bath when changing the filter. I'm not sure if that method is "safe" or not but I use a different approach.
I suck the fluid out through the dipstick tube using a Mityvac fluid evacuator http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MIT-7400.html
I can empty 99% of what is in the pan allowing me to drop the pay and change the filter without making a mess.
If the vehicle has a torque converter drain I use that as well (most of the newer Fords don't).
I have gotten to the point where I use the fluid evacuator every 8 to 10K miles. In my case it pulls about 3.5 quarts which is easily measure in the graduated evacuation tank and then I add whatever I took out.
I get a fresh additive pack on a regular basis and when I change the filter every 30K or so I don't have to take a bath.
The fluid in my 4R70W looks always looks like it just came out of the bottle.
I suck the fluid out through the dipstick tube using a Mityvac fluid evacuator http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/MIT-7400.html
I can empty 99% of what is in the pan allowing me to drop the pay and change the filter without making a mess.
If the vehicle has a torque converter drain I use that as well (most of the newer Fords don't).
I have gotten to the point where I use the fluid evacuator every 8 to 10K miles. In my case it pulls about 3.5 quarts which is easily measure in the graduated evacuation tank and then I add whatever I took out.
I get a fresh additive pack on a regular basis and when I change the filter every 30K or so I don't have to take a bath.
The fluid in my 4R70W looks always looks like it just came out of the bottle.
I got a idea for a power extractor without the $60 price tag. Since it work on the principle of vacuum.
Here's what I built. I had a clear/translucent bucket. It has a top that snaps on (also has a handle). I drilled a hole on the top and attached a 1.5'' PVC pipe fitting, on the opposite side of the top I drilled a small hole and attached 2 1/4'' barbed fitting with a connector, so that one is on the top and the other on the bottom. I also bought 10' of clear 1/4'' hose and cut a small piece to that the bottom barbed fitting to the bottom of the pail. Put the lid on and connect the top barbed in to what you want to suck/pump out. Insert your shop vacuum in the 1.5'' PVC connector and the fluid will be sucked through the hose and into the pail.
I tested it with water and it emptied a pail quicky and since transmission fluid is not to thick it sould work equally well. I think it will work for thicker fluids also, just slower.
Total cost about $6. The shop vac never ingests anything since it's separted. I'll post more results as I use it, but I don't need a change for a while.
Here's what I built. I had a clear/translucent bucket. It has a top that snaps on (also has a handle). I drilled a hole on the top and attached a 1.5'' PVC pipe fitting, on the opposite side of the top I drilled a small hole and attached 2 1/4'' barbed fitting with a connector, so that one is on the top and the other on the bottom. I also bought 10' of clear 1/4'' hose and cut a small piece to that the bottom barbed fitting to the bottom of the pail. Put the lid on and connect the top barbed in to what you want to suck/pump out. Insert your shop vacuum in the 1.5'' PVC connector and the fluid will be sucked through the hose and into the pail.
I tested it with water and it emptied a pail quicky and since transmission fluid is not to thick it sould work equally well. I think it will work for thicker fluids also, just slower.
Total cost about $6. The shop vac never ingests anything since it's separted. I'll post more results as I use it, but I don't need a change for a while.
I think the T-bird uses the LS 5-SPD auto and not he 4R70W trans, so there will be no TQ drain plug.
How many miles are there on the vehicle.
I doubt the cooler line will pump out the whole trans, maybe just the pan.
If Jerry wrote the article, it should work well.
You are going to do a filter change, right?
How many miles are there on the vehicle.
I doubt the cooler line will pump out the whole trans, maybe just the pan.
If Jerry wrote the article, it should work well.
You are going to do a filter change, right?
I have used the "pump out through the cooler lines" method for years with my Volvos. It works quite well, but you end up using maybe half again as much fluid to flush the system. I will run the engine at idle until about two quarts have pumped out, shut the engine off, and pour in two fresh quarts through the dipstick tube. Keep repeating this until the fluid coming out the cooler line looks fresh. Usually takes about 12 quarts to flush my 8 quart capacity transmissions.
Have done it three times with my car.
safe as long as you turn off the engine once you see bubles come out.
It's quick and no mess whatsoever. Someone to turn on/off the car while you pour the fluid will help a lot.
safe as long as you turn off the engine once you see bubles come out.
It's quick and no mess whatsoever. Someone to turn on/off the car while you pour the fluid will help a lot.
If you are looking at T-bird sites, I am assuming your vehicle has the 4R70W automatic? Why not just get a pan with a drain plug? It is basically the same pan but, with a drain plug. I got it from my local dealer, he called it the export pan. The part number is F8UZ-7A194-AA and I paid $55 for it. You still have to drain the torque converter but without having to deal with the mess of dropping a pan full of fluid the chore is much easier.
Yeah guys I have a 1996 T Bird 4.6L . I switched it to Mercon V in about 1998. I normally change the fluid every 20-25,000 miles due to the ( SHUDDER ). I never have gotten the shudded. I also always put the Lubeguard in it with every change. More is better, Right ? I also added and external transmission oil cooler. I routed it comeing out of the radiator first and then through the cooler ( B&M ) and then back to the pan. The car has about 120,000 on it and is solid. I think this will be the last transmission fluid change befroe I get rid of it . About two years anyhow.. I had a shop where I lived but I have moved out of state due to a Job transfer and where Im at now I don't have the area to do this . Drive way is on a hill/slant. I have never had a drop of oil leak at the transmission pan when I do the change. It has the reusable gasket. I just torque the bolts to the ( specs ) and it is as dry as it was when it left the factory. Thats one of the reasons for me not wanting to take it to a shop, be it Ford service or a local hole in the wall. Noboby is going to do it like ( I ) would. When Im done , it doesn't leak. My Torque convertor does have the drain plug. I always drain it to. Thanks for the advise, Oiler
I have used Motorcraft Mercon V and Havoline in the past. Motorcraft is normally more $$$$. Dealers don't ewant to match the Autozone prices . LOL. Havoiline has worked well, so I guess thats what I will use. This has been a very good site. Alot of knowledge here. School of been there and done that. Thanks Oiler
MolaKule
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Kestas
Staff member
For those interested, here's the fluid change method I use on all my cars that don't have a torque converter drain:
1. Pull the transmission dipstick (located near the firewall in most cars). Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.
2. Make sure the fluid is warm.
3. Remove all pan bolts except for the corners. Remove the bolt from the lowest corner, then loosen the other corner bolts a turn or two. Carefully pry the pan to break the gasket seal at the lowest corner. Drain mostly from this corner. With good technique you can avoid or at least minimize the red bath.
4. Remove pan. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Remove all old gasket material. Clean the pan and magnet with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue. Shop air can be used to clean the magnet. Hammer back any pan damage from previous overtightening.
5. (Optional) Drill hole in pan at low point and install a drain kit available from most auto supply houses. Make sure the kit protruding inside the pan doesn't interfere with anything on the transmission.
6. Replace filter.
7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the four bolts and gasket in place.
8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to proper ft-lbs as per manufacturer.
9. Refill the transmission using only the amount shown as “refill capacity” in the owners manual (or an equal amount that was drained), using the type of fluid specified for the vehicle.
10. You now have replaced the transmission fluid and filter according to manufacturer’s requirements. Fluid is changed in the pan only.
You can stop here and go to Step 17 if you just wanted a regular drop-the-pan fluid change. For a complete exchange of the fluid (including transmission body and torquer converter) continue with the next steps.
11. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle from the manufacturer. Have this amount - plus a bit more - of fluid readily available.
12. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. Tickle the ignition to find the flow direction. Direct the stream of fluid toward a receptacle. It is better to use a clear length of hose with a shoplight laying next to it so you can see when all the old fluid has left the system.
13. Start the engine, let it idle to pump out old transmission fluid until you start seeing air bubbles.
14. Stop the engine. Refill transmission through fill tube with fresh fluid - same amount as pumped out (usually about 2-3 quarts).
15. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced, shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All transmission fluid has now been changed.
16. Button everything back up. Clean up the mess.
17. Recheck the fluid level. With the car on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in “Park” or “Neutral.” Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission through all detents, pausing momentarily at each position, before returning the lever to “Park” or “Neutral.” Check the fluid level again and check for leaks. Refill fluid so it is slightly undercharged. This way it can be properly checked and topped off after a long drive.
1. Pull the transmission dipstick (located near the firewall in most cars). Fresh fluid is translucent and cherry red. Some darkening is normal, but if it is reddish brown or mustard color and smells like burnt varnish, it is worn out.
2. Make sure the fluid is warm.
3. Remove all pan bolts except for the corners. Remove the bolt from the lowest corner, then loosen the other corner bolts a turn or two. Carefully pry the pan to break the gasket seal at the lowest corner. Drain mostly from this corner. With good technique you can avoid or at least minimize the red bath.
4. Remove pan. Inspect the pan before cleaning. A small amount of fine grey clutch dust is normal. However, if you find metal shavings, there has been transmission damage. Remove all old gasket material. Clean the pan and magnet with solvent and wipe dry so there is no harmful residue. Shop air can be used to clean the magnet. Hammer back any pan damage from previous overtightening.
5. (Optional) Drill hole in pan at low point and install a drain kit available from most auto supply houses. Make sure the kit protruding inside the pan doesn't interfere with anything on the transmission.
6. Replace filter.
7. Position gasket on pan. Some gaskets have four holes slightly smaller than the rest to allow four bolts through the pan and through these smaller holes to hold the four bolts and gasket in place.
8. Hand tighten pan bolts in a criss-cross pattern. After that, use a torque wrench to tighten bolts to proper ft-lbs as per manufacturer.
9. Refill the transmission using only the amount shown as “refill capacity” in the owners manual (or an equal amount that was drained), using the type of fluid specified for the vehicle.
10. You now have replaced the transmission fluid and filter according to manufacturer’s requirements. Fluid is changed in the pan only.
You can stop here and go to Step 17 if you just wanted a regular drop-the-pan fluid change. For a complete exchange of the fluid (including transmission body and torquer converter) continue with the next steps.
11. Obtain the total system capacity of the vehicle from the manufacturer. Have this amount - plus a bit more - of fluid readily available.
12. Disconnect the oil cooler line from the oil cooler. Tickle the ignition to find the flow direction. Direct the stream of fluid toward a receptacle. It is better to use a clear length of hose with a shoplight laying next to it so you can see when all the old fluid has left the system.
13. Start the engine, let it idle to pump out old transmission fluid until you start seeing air bubbles.
14. Stop the engine. Refill transmission through fill tube with fresh fluid - same amount as pumped out (usually about 2-3 quarts).
15. When either the fluid color brightens or the total capacity has been replaced, shut the engine off and re-attach the oil cooler line. All transmission fluid has now been changed.
16. Button everything back up. Clean up the mess.
17. Recheck the fluid level. With the car on level ground, set the parking brake and the transmission in “Park” or “Neutral.” Let the engine idle for a few minutes. Shift the transmission through all detents, pausing momentarily at each position, before returning the lever to “Park” or “Neutral.” Check the fluid level again and check for leaks. Refill fluid so it is slightly undercharged. This way it can be properly checked and topped off after a long drive.
I have the exact same fluid evacuator and it works fantastic on every fluid drain.Axle lude to power steering fluid comes out great with that gizmo!I also pull the transmission line on certain vehicles to drain off the fluid with no ill effects.My Jeep Cherokee has a drain plug in the auto-transmission pan so thats a nice bonus
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