Question about oil change

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I just changed the oil in my Tacoma V6 and I didnt see a crush washer on there. It may be stuck crushed on the pan but I couldnt really see very well under the truck (skid plates and it was getting darker out) Anyway, I was wondering if there is a problem not using the crush washer? if it doesnt leak it should be fine correct??? it just seals it, doesnt really help keep the drain bolt from backing out? Like I said I dont remember if it had one on there the last time I changed it. I guess I will just keep and eye on the oil level and when it warms up, drain it put a fumoto valve on and put the oil back in. Its messy but I just dont want to waste Mobil one EP. So does anyone know for sure if the 3.4 L V6 has a crush washer on the pan?
 
Don't know about that specific engine, but as long as it's not leaking, don't worry. You're right, the washer just helps the drain bolt seal up the hole. I can't see it doing much to stop the bolt from unscrewing, but then I don't see any reason for that to happen anyway.
 
the crush washer get stuck a lot, and in some cases pretty hard to get off with just fingernails. I don't know for sure if they have a crush washer under there, but I do know I have mine under my highlander.
 
went out and felt around, I think it was just stuck to the oil pan, it feels like there is one sandwiched between.
 
There should definitely be some sort of crush washer on there. Don't try to run without one.

Newer Toyotas use a pressed synthetic material for the washer and the recommend replacement every oil change. They feel somewhat like a pressed cardboard. I usually change it out every two or three oil changes. They are cheap.

The OEMs are a black Teflon coated while some dealers also sell a aftermarket synthetic. I see they are now selling some green synthetic ones at auto parts stores now.
 
My dealer once attempt to sell me some for $.50 each.

Rockauto is selling 100 for less than $15, I think we should have a group buy.
 
On my wife's old Honda CRX the oil pan bolt had a flat solid copper washer. The dealer would get the pan bolt so tight that I was in fear of ruining the bolt getting it off, even with a 6 point socket. Finally I started doing her oil changes and made a gasket out a piece of clear plastic coffee can lid. It was easy to get on and off and didn't leak a drop.
 
Your crush washer may be somehow sealed onto the drain bolt. On my 03 Subaru Forester the washer was put on the bolt and then both were painted, and the paint makes the washer stick to the bolt.
 
I would bet it was stuck to the pan. It tends to stick on my '02 Tacoma. It usually takes a gentle tap from a flathead screwdriver to free it. I doubt you will have a leak since it is stil in place.
 
Get a Fumoto valve. Around thirty bucks so it is not cheap but it will make oil changes and taking samples a piece of cake. And once it is installed with the washer it will be there forever eliminating the risk of oil pan thread damage and the crush washer problem.
 
I'll second that motion for a Fumota valve. I'm running them on both of my vehicles and can do an oil and filter change in under 10 minutes. And you don't have to worry about stripping the pan. I've been using these for 100K miles and no issues. I've heard folks complain about the Fram SureDrain, they seem to slow down over time. The fumoto is a stainless steel ball valve in a brass housing.
 
2003TRD,

Those green Toyota crush washers do stick to the pan; so you might be alright. You are however supposed to use a new one on every oil change. BTW, if you over tighten them, they will split.
 
thanks for all the input guys. I am going to get a fumoto drain valve on the next oil change. Nothing has been leaking so I think it was just stuck on there.
 
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