Question about Auto-Rx or Amsoil Engine flush

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What is the difference between Auto-Rx and Amsoil engine flush? Why do the instructions say to put a new oil filter in before adding to crankcase, why can't you keep your old filter until you do a full oil change?
 
The instructions have to account for those who have heavily sludged engines. I've had people that I've turned Auto-Rx on to that have pulled totally plugged filters after a very short time. Some who know the internal condition my be well served to change out the filters during the cleaning if it's really bad.

I can't tell you what state is acceptable for retaining the current filter. If you've got any collective "mass" of deposits ..then you put on a new filter and perhaps prepare to change it out. If, OTOH, you've just got some varnish that you want to clean up ..or are doing anal type PM ..then you will probably be fine.
 
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Does the Amsoil engine flush have any esters in it?




I am fairly sure the answer is no. My impression of the Amsoil engine flush was that it was mostly kerosene. AutoRX works totally different. I've used the Amsoil engine flush, but I don't think I will do it again. I think the AutoRX is safer to use. Just my
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Amsoil engine flush is a solvent and has no esters. Certainly AutoRx is safer.

AutoRx is a slow, very slow gentle cleaner, most times you need 2 or even 3 treatments for a "high mileage" dirty engine. This takes thousands of miles and several oil changes. It does work, it cleans around rings and it cleans oil passages. Amsoil Engine flush is a rapid flush product that you NEVER drive with it in the engine. Fast idle for 15-20 minutes max. It helps rinse and drain old oil out, it is best allowed to drain for several hours when complete. This not only gets the old oil out, it allows the flush to evaporate. It contains more than kerosene and will not hurt seals. It does not clean ring lands, but will flush sludge out.

IMHO both are useful, but very different products.
 
The 4.6 DOHC in my 98 LSC had intake manifold runner controls that open around 3000rpm so below that only the 16 of the 32 valves are open. Once I pour in the Amsoil engine flush should I rev it to around 3000rpm where all the 32 valves are open to clean everything out better?
 
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The 4.6 DOHC in my 98 LSC had intake manifold runner controls that open around 3000rpm so below that only the 16 of the 32 valves are open. Once I pour in the Amsoil engine flush should I rev it to around 3000rpm where all the 32 valves are open to clean everything out better?




While some gentle unloaded reving is probably fine to get the oil pumping (faster/higher pressure), there is no need to do as you say. I highly doubt the oil path changes whether those valves are being actuated or not. The oil flow is not changed when the extra valves open, right?
 
It can take as little as 750 miles. There is a guy that has a Ford Lightening Truck, that he uses as a daily driver, but also has a race set up that he converts to for 1/4 competition. He supplied some phtots of his filter after merely 750 miles of street driving. Pleats are loaded. If you are interested in the picture go to the Auto-Rx web site and look in the whats new section on the right hand site of the home page and click on the topic about the Ford Lightening Truck. I think this may shed some light on why ARX suggests a new filter and short OCI's for cleaning and rinsing. Is this extreme and somewhat out of the ordinary, the directions are written for the protection of the general public.
 
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