if this happened to a Fram filter-OMG it would be the end of the friggin world, right?
PureOne PL14610 with 5,000 miles
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Right, or an ST, Wix, Clarcor, etc.
Originally Posted By: steve20
if this happened to a Fram filter-OMG it would be the end of the friggin world, right?
Agreed. The filter media separated from it's bonding agent... that's a failed filter IMHO!!
Surprise surprise... more problems with filters that have large uneven pleats. There is simply too much pressure per square inch along those large open spaces.
Again, there is the peace of mind knowing that this type of failure won't introduce foreign material into your engine!
if this happened to a Fram filter-OMG it would be the end of the friggin world, right?
Agreed. The filter media separated from it's bonding agent... that's a failed filter IMHO!!
Surprise surprise... more problems with filters that have large uneven pleats. There is simply too much pressure per square inch along those large open spaces.
Again, there is the peace of mind knowing that this type of failure won't introduce foreign material into your engine!
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
time to switch to Fram
In all seriousness, after seeing the pics of the Subaru OEM, made by Fram, I can honestly say I'll probably do exactly that when my current stash of filters run out. The filter came out in amazing shape:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/subaru-15208aa12a-with-4-061-miles.128935/
time to switch to Fram
In all seriousness, after seeing the pics of the Subaru OEM, made by Fram, I can honestly say I'll probably do exactly that when my current stash of filters run out. The filter came out in amazing shape:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/subaru-15208aa12a-with-4-061-miles.128935/
Originally Posted By: Jim Allen
While the P1s deliver great filtration for a very good price, their construction is just "average." That said, we can't condemn all P1s on the basis of one failure.
I agree. It just looks like the potting material debonded from the media.....heck for all we know something like a good cleaning oil, MMO, AutoRx
.....could have weakened the bond.
What seems a bit odd is there appears to be no (or maybe insufficient) compound on the inside - which could preclude this debonding.
While the P1s deliver great filtration for a very good price, their construction is just "average." That said, we can't condemn all P1s on the basis of one failure.
I agree. It just looks like the potting material debonded from the media.....heck for all we know something like a good cleaning oil, MMO, AutoRx
What seems a bit odd is there appears to be no (or maybe insufficient) compound on the inside - which could preclude this debonding.
Funny some people will condemn a brand based on a rare occasion of failure. I would think that there are failures in every single brand. What we need to look at is the % of failures, I think that Purolator % wise sells a lot more filters than many of the other brands, and their failure rate is probably very, very low.
Surprise surprise... more problems with filters that have large uneven pleats. There is simply too much pressure per square inch along those large open spaces.
Webfors- That is a great observation. When the pleats widen, the media in that area twists away from a radial orientation toward concentric. This places more force on the media from moving oil, which can cause the tearing.
The possibility of tearing is compounded by media clogging with impurities, viscosity, cold temps, anything that causes pressures to approach bypass.
This is a good reason to stay with thinner viscosity and change filter every oil change.
Wide pleats is more of a problem than I thought.
Webfors- That is a great observation. When the pleats widen, the media in that area twists away from a radial orientation toward concentric. This places more force on the media from moving oil, which can cause the tearing.
The possibility of tearing is compounded by media clogging with impurities, viscosity, cold temps, anything that causes pressures to approach bypass.
This is a good reason to stay with thinner viscosity and change filter every oil change.
Wide pleats is more of a problem than I thought.
Nearly all filters have wider spaced pleats at the seam. I have seen picture after picture of cut open filters here along with having cut open many. There is nearly always wider spaced pleats somewhere. Very few filters fail. However, when they do fail, it nearly always is at the wider spaced pleats. None of my filters ever failed, and good filters far outweigh the bad here. That is with people being more likely to post bad results than good. I try not to generalize from only a few, or 1 example. Failures are still rare even with several posted here recently. Perhaps more people are cutting filter open,and looking at them more carefully.
This is all happening just as I planned to abandon my long time 3 month OCI. I am not going to panic. Not only have I not seen holes in my oil filters, I haven't seen tell tale wavy pleats and black slime coating the filter. I run recommended viscosity or lower. I don't warm the engine up, but take it easy until the engine warms up. I will keep a close eye on what is reported here and give my results when I have some.
This is all happening just as I planned to abandon my long time 3 month OCI. I am not going to panic. Not only have I not seen holes in my oil filters, I haven't seen tell tale wavy pleats and black slime coating the filter. I run recommended viscosity or lower. I don't warm the engine up, but take it easy until the engine warms up. I will keep a close eye on what is reported here and give my results when I have some.
I'm not convinced that the P1's media is coming unbonded at the end caps near the seam. When I looked over the P1 filter with 8K miles I saw what looked like slight tearing and abrasion of the media but not coming completley unbonded or disconnected from the end cap. Besides none of the other 53 pleats x 2 end cap connections appeared to show signs of unbonding. I think if they tightened up the gap between pleats near the seam with 2 or 4 extra pleats, this mechanical tearing wouldn't surface.
The evidence of a failed bond is quite apparent. There is a large section of end cap with no glue on it.
One more time, a well bonded glue NEVER peals off cleanly, never, never, never. You are too biased to accept even the most minor defect in a Purolator.
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Originally Posted By: labman
One more time, a well bonded glue NEVER peals off cleanly, never, never, never. You are too biased to accept even the most minor defect in a Purolator.
+1
That filter failed, accept it. It is not perfection in a can.
One more time, a well bonded glue NEVER peals off cleanly, never, never, never. You are too biased to accept even the most minor defect in a Purolator.
+1
That filter failed, accept it. It is not perfection in a can.
Originally Posted By: labman
One more time, a well bonded glue NEVER peals off cleanly, never, never, never. You are too biased to accept even the most minor defect in a Purolator.
Labman is talking about the plastic cap I broke off with a large screwdriver. You probably never even disassembled a P1 end cap. You are just quessing from pics or should I say being biased. It's not the cleanliness of the broken joint that matters but the force required to break it. If you easily peel off a fiber end cap on a Fram or ecore, I guess according to you that it tears and doesn't look "clean" then that is better. Everyone here knows you are biased against Purolator filters.
One more time, a well bonded glue NEVER peals off cleanly, never, never, never. You are too biased to accept even the most minor defect in a Purolator.
Labman is talking about the plastic cap I broke off with a large screwdriver. You probably never even disassembled a P1 end cap. You are just quessing from pics or should I say being biased. It's not the cleanliness of the broken joint that matters but the force required to break it. If you easily peel off a fiber end cap on a Fram or ecore, I guess according to you that it tears and doesn't look "clean" then that is better. Everyone here knows you are biased against Purolator filters.
Actually no, I am not. I have used and cut open just about every filter on the market. I got a Purolator classic on my 5.3l right now and another waiting for my 4.3. I just do not like spending more money on percieved quality and notions of more engine life. My engines run fine with "low quality" filters. Everyone here acts as if P1 filters are the end all be all filter. Fact is it is not, every manufacturer will have problems. But there is a obvious bias. If this was a ST filter for example, the first post would have read "another [censored] escare." Instead of "Another good Purolator 1." I have, once again, cut open P1s before, including Wix, Fram, Champ, Denso, etc. But before I ever joined this board.
I will be cutting the Purolators I have after use too, and the chances are they will be just FINE like every other filter I have cut open.
[censored] my Toyota 22r ran to almost 600k miles on nothing but fram and ecores. But I guess with how people think here, if I used a P1 it would have gotten a million miles, or something.
I will be cutting the Purolators I have after use too, and the chances are they will be just FINE like every other filter I have cut open.
[censored] my Toyota 22r ran to almost 600k miles on nothing but fram and ecores. But I guess with how people think here, if I used a P1 it would have gotten a million miles, or something.
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Yeah I don't think you are biased and I'm pretty sure you have posted several filter pics. I didn't really have much against the ecore until I saw the pics of pleats unfolding at the seam and some blow outs. I'm still not sure that Fram extra guard are better filters.
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