Pumping Gas "Tips"
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I've heard/read all the tricks one can do to save sone gas at the pump and employ all of them. One of the biggest and most important is to keep your tires inflated properly and change the air cleaner filter. Drive slower and more nicely from the signals. Of course that's hard when everyone's bearing down your neck as their in a rush.
Durango
Durango
Speaking of ridiculous unsubstantiated myths that won't die, isn't it about time for someone to bring up the "boycott gas for one day to force oil companies to lower prices" idea? It's been a few months.
Originally Posted By: ccs v2.0
1. I pump at the lowest "click" on the pump to ensure I receive what I pay for. . . .
Ha to that one. The majority of pump handles at the stations down here don't have that trigger step mechanism -- and if they do, the lowest step still sends fuel gushing into your tank. And on top of that, the mechanism may not click off by itself; after more than once dumping fuel on the ground, I always pump the last few gallons manually, with my fingers cramped around the pump handle.
1. I pump at the lowest "click" on the pump to ensure I receive what I pay for. . . .
Ha to that one. The majority of pump handles at the stations down here don't have that trigger step mechanism -- and if they do, the lowest step still sends fuel gushing into your tank. And on top of that, the mechanism may not click off by itself; after more than once dumping fuel on the ground, I always pump the last few gallons manually, with my fingers cramped around the pump handle.
Recently I helped a friend of mine deal with a boat that has a gastank that was left with 13 gallons of gas in it for years...anyhow, in the process of trying to clean out the tank (the pickup tube kept getting clogged by debris in the tank) we blew compressed air into the pickup tube to blow it out.
You could SEE the gasoline vapors coming out of the breather vent while we were forcing air into the tank! Could definitely smell them, too.
As far as vapor recovery systems go, I read that they recover enough gasoline vapor to pay for their installation within a year.
You could SEE the gasoline vapors coming out of the breather vent while we were forcing air into the tank! Could definitely smell them, too.
As far as vapor recovery systems go, I read that they recover enough gasoline vapor to pay for their installation within a year.
brian, I can believe that.
Be careful with compressed air (I know you are).
A fitter was killed a few years ago draining a gearbox by forcing it out with compressed air...apparently cast iron gearbox housings don't make great air receivers.
Be careful with compressed air (I know you are).
A fitter was killed a few years ago draining a gearbox by forcing it out with compressed air...apparently cast iron gearbox housings don't make great air receivers.
If would be fun to print that bit of info out, hand it to a few people, then tail them to their next fillup!
The only time I pump on "slow" is pumping diesel... especially on hot days... because it seems to foam less at low flow rates.
The only time I pump on "slow" is pumping diesel... especially on hot days... because it seems to foam less at low flow rates.
Originally Posted By: Durango
I've heard/read all the tricks one can do to save sone gas at the pump and employ all of them. One of the biggest and most important is to keep your tires inflated properly and change the air cleaner filter. Drive slower and more nicely from the signals. Of course that's hard when everyone's bearing down your neck as their in a rush.
Durango
Add shifting at lower RPMs to the fuel saving tips. On most honda made after 2001-2002 (iVTEC 4 cylinder, K- and R- series engines) the engine operates in two to three modes:
idle - 2250 = 12 valve VTEC-E mode similar to the 1991 Civic VX that got 45 mpg without hybrid technology. The air fuel ratio is stratified 16:1, or 17:1 depending on the engine design.
2250 - up = 16 valve "power" mode with fuel ratio close to 14:1.
On some high powered Honda engines (new Civic Si, RSX Type S, TSX) there is a third stage where the duration and lift change to sustain high RPM operation up to the 8000 RPM redline producing 200+ HP from just 2.0 liters of displacement.
So, if one shifts before 2250 RPM, one is always running in VTEC-E mode.
I have a 2005 CR-V (a small SUV) and by shifting at or near 2250 RPM I easily achieve 26 mpg in city driving.
The torque on the new K-series engines is not an issue, since the ignition is advanced or retarded depending on the throttle position, gear, load and speed to produce most optimal torque. The days of torqueless Honda engines are gone, but so are the sky high red lines
I've heard/read all the tricks one can do to save sone gas at the pump and employ all of them. One of the biggest and most important is to keep your tires inflated properly and change the air cleaner filter. Drive slower and more nicely from the signals. Of course that's hard when everyone's bearing down your neck as their in a rush.
Durango
Add shifting at lower RPMs to the fuel saving tips. On most honda made after 2001-2002 (iVTEC 4 cylinder, K- and R- series engines) the engine operates in two to three modes:
idle - 2250 = 12 valve VTEC-E mode similar to the 1991 Civic VX that got 45 mpg without hybrid technology. The air fuel ratio is stratified 16:1, or 17:1 depending on the engine design.
2250 - up = 16 valve "power" mode with fuel ratio close to 14:1.
On some high powered Honda engines (new Civic Si, RSX Type S, TSX) there is a third stage where the duration and lift change to sustain high RPM operation up to the 8000 RPM redline producing 200+ HP from just 2.0 liters of displacement.
So, if one shifts before 2250 RPM, one is always running in VTEC-E mode.
I have a 2005 CR-V (a small SUV) and by shifting at or near 2250 RPM I easily achieve 26 mpg in city driving.
The torque on the new K-series engines is not an issue, since the ignition is advanced or retarded depending on the throttle position, gear, load and speed to produce most optimal torque. The days of torqueless Honda engines are gone, but so are the sky high red lines
Originally Posted By: Pablo
I suppose the "pick-up" for the tank is near the bottom......just a thought.
As far as stiring [censored] up....what kind of khrap are we talking about? Water - sure bound to be some condensation that makes it to the motor or in limited solution....as far as other garbage, I would think that would be related to the age of the fuel station. (and their filtering system)
I heard that you would pick-up sediment, part of the water table, etc. Everytime the tanker dumps the gas at a station. I fill up and my car improves performance-throttle, accleration, power, smoother idle, etc. Why is that? I am just curious not, trying to be sarcastic. I thought it was the other way around.
I suppose the "pick-up" for the tank is near the bottom......just a thought.
As far as stiring [censored] up....what kind of khrap are we talking about? Water - sure bound to be some condensation that makes it to the motor or in limited solution....as far as other garbage, I would think that would be related to the age of the fuel station. (and their filtering system)
I heard that you would pick-up sediment, part of the water table, etc. Everytime the tanker dumps the gas at a station. I fill up and my car improves performance-throttle, accleration, power, smoother idle, etc. Why is that? I am just curious not, trying to be sarcastic. I thought it was the other way around.
In my physics class I had to calculate how much gasoline expands by knowing density, mass, and temperature change. with 26 gallons of gasoline and a 60°F change (from 40 to 100) it was less then 1/2 gallon. the tank in your car may change that much but the tank in the ground with 1000 gallons certainly doesn't.
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