Pulled the trigger on a new to me 2016 CR-V today

[NormanBuntz]

No answers here, just a comment. For this vehicle with its maintenance history, low mileage and the things the dealer did to prepare it for sale, it's worth paying a premium compared to the average CRV. Good luck with it.

 

[dpaldino]

Good luck with your CR-V. I have a 2008 that I bought used in 2011 with 50,000 miles on the odometer. I change my own oil with Pennzoil, Castrol or Mobil 1 and use either Wix or Fram Ultra filters. It just turned over to 225,000 miles with minimal attention. I've had the tranny and brake fluids changed over the years but other than that I fix it when it breaks. Been a great car. If and when this one gives out, I would absolutely consider another one. Good luck!

 

[JC1]

Originally Posted by JimPghPA

I am wondering if an oil catch can on the PVC line might me a good idea? And if so who makes the best one?

I added a catch can to my Caravan. Probably didn't need it, but I followed Stevie on this site when he added one. The one I got was something like this. https://www.amazon.ca/Ruien-Baffled...+catch+can&qid=1581879393&sr=8-3 I kept looking on Amazon until the price was under $25. I had to buy some fuel hose to plumb it in.

 

[donnyj08]

Originally Posted by faltic

[quote=AZjeff] wonder about the rotors and pads at less than 20K? That sounds over the top even for a Honda dealer/quote] last honda i owned brakes went to just shy 100k something fishy IMHO

You're in GA. In PA a 4 year old cars breaking system has taken a beating from salt/brime during 4 long winters. Braking components pads/rotors are raw steel and they rust quickly in Western PA, which significantly shortens the lifespan of the components. Not to mention the hills around Pittsburgh. Our Tucson needed brakes done when we bought it 4 months ago with 25k miles on it. It spent the first 4 years of its life in upstate NY. Had to replace all 4 rotors, pads and slide pins. Salt/brime and heavy snow is tough on braking components. 4 years is good service even with lowish miles unless one is disassembling and lubing slides and pins before and after every winter. Congrats on the new ride OP. South Hills is a nice place. I travel there a few times a year to estimate projects on restaurants we repair in the area.

 

[JimPghPA]

I think trany coolers are a good idea for summer driving on Pittsburgh hills. As for the oil catch can, I am pretty sure it is a DI engine without the intake port injections to wash the back side of the intake valves. I know low NOACK like Pennzoil Platinum may help reduce the amount of oil fumes that end up going through the PVC and into the intake. But am wondering if a good catch can can significantly reduce the amount of oil that reaches the intake. One thing I am wondering about is which would be best, shorter OCI such as 5,000 miles, or the recommended 7,500 miles or annually which ever comes first. There is some thought that fresh oil throws off more fumes than old oil and if that is true then more frequent oil changes might increase the over-all amount of oil fumes that the intake gets, compared to running the oil longer before changing.

 

[JimPghPA]

BTW, the one I got has the all weather floor mats, and a Honda brand remote start that has an original owner suggested price of $600. Unfortunately it will be parked outside all the time, so on the few winter days when it gets iced over it will be nice to use the remote start it to loosen the ice some before trying to remove it.

 

[Market525]

The warped rotors could be as simple as who did the tire rotations .... if the tech just used their impact gun & hammered on the lug nuts and didn't hand torque the lug nuts with a torque wrench ... that alone can cause warped rotors.

 

[KCJeep]

Saw one posted for sale locally that said it had a CVT transmission. I didn't know Honda was doing that. We have a 14 here at work that has stood up well to some considerable abuse, but I am certain it is not a CVT model.

 

[Al]

Originally Posted by KCJeep

Saw one posted for sale locally that said it had a CVT transmission. I didn't know Honda was doing that. We have a 14 here at work that has stood up well to some considerable abuse, but I am certain it is not a CVT model.

I thought most of Honda's models have CVT

 

[Al]

Originally Posted by KCJeep

Saw one posted for sale locally that said it had a CVT transmission. I didn't know Honda was doing that. We have a 14 here at work that has stood up well to some considerable abuse, but I am certain it is not a CVT model.

I thought most of Honda's models have CVT

 

[JeffKeryk]

I believe 2014 was the last year of the 5 speed transmission; 2015 forward is CVT. Both are great.

 

[gofast182]

Originally Posted by JimPghPA

I think trany coolers are a good idea for summer driving on Pittsburgh hills. As for the oil catch can, I am pretty sure it is a DI engine without the intake port injections to wash the back side of the intake valves. I know low NOACK like Pennzoil Platinum may help reduce the amount of oil fumes that end up going through the PVC and into the intake. But am wondering if a good catch can can significantly reduce the amount of oil that reaches the intake. One thing I am wondering about is which would be best, shorter OCI such as 5,000 miles, or the recommended 7,500 miles or annually which ever comes first. There is some thought that fresh oil throws off more fumes than old oil and if that is true then more frequent oil changes might increase the over-all amount of oil fumes that the intake gets, compared to running the oil longer before changing.

As someone else pointed out, it's a well-maintained Honda. IMHO you're getting a little nutty with trans coolers and catch cans. This powertrain combo, on this vehicle and others, has proven to be about as bulletproof as they come. Honda has designed, toleranced, and derated these major components to handle harder duty than you, a conscientious owner, will throw at it. Further, Honda's maintenance minder has proven over and over and over again that it times oil changes optimally. Use a high quality oil and filter and don't over-think it!

 

[glock19]

Originally Posted by JimPghPA

In the past I used FLAC (first loss-less audio compression format) that only compresses to half the original file size, for most of the songs and I had on a 80 Gig Kenwood MusicKeg in my 1985 Olds 88 coupe. About 1/10 of my songs would not compress with FLAC so I coppied them non-compressed. Still, those 2000 and something songs only used up about 1/2 of the 80 Gig drive. I figure a 128 Gig drive would be big enough for me to add more than the current amount I have.

Are you upgrading the sound system? You definitely don't need lossless audio files if you're keeping the stock sound system.