No answers here, just a comment. For this vehicle with its maintenance history, low mileage and the things the dealer did to prepare it for sale, it's worth paying a premium compared to the average CRV. Good luck with it.
Pulled the trigger on a new to me 2016 CR-V today
- Thread starter JimPghPA
- Start date
Good luck with your CR-V. I have a 2008 that I bought used in 2011 with 50,000 miles on the odometer. I change my own oil with Pennzoil, Castrol or Mobil 1 and use either Wix or Fram Ultra filters. It just turned over to 225,000 miles with minimal attention. I've had the tranny and brake fluids changed over the years but other than that I fix it when it breaks. Been a great car. If and when this one gives out, I would absolutely consider another one. Good luck!
Originally Posted by JimPghPA
I am wondering if an oil catch can on the PVC line might me a good idea? And if so who makes the best one?
Originally Posted by faltic
[quote=AZjeff] wonder about the rotors and pads at less than 20K? That sounds over the top even for a Honda dealer/quote]
last honda i owned brakes went to just shy 100k something fishy IMHO
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I think trany coolers are a good idea for summer driving on Pittsburgh hills. As for the oil catch can, I am pretty sure it is a DI engine without the intake port injections to wash the back side of the intake valves. I know low NOACK like Pennzoil Platinum may help reduce the amount of oil fumes that end up going through the PVC and into the intake. But am wondering if a good catch can can significantly reduce the amount of oil that reaches the intake.
One thing I am wondering about is which would be best, shorter OCI such as 5,000 miles, or the recommended 7,500 miles or annually which ever comes first. There is some thought that fresh oil throws off more fumes than old oil and if that is true then more frequent oil changes might increase the over-all amount of oil fumes that the intake gets, compared to running the oil longer before changing.
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BTW, the one I got has the all weather floor mats, and a Honda brand remote start that has an original owner suggested price of $600. Unfortunately it will be parked outside all the time, so on the few winter days when it gets iced over it will be nice to use the remote start it to loosen the ice some before trying to remove it.
The warped rotors could be as simple as who did the tire rotations .... if the tech just used their impact gun & hammered on the lug nuts and didn't hand torque the lug nuts with a torque wrench ... that alone can cause warped rotors.
Saw one posted for sale locally that said it had a CVT transmission. I didn't know Honda was doing that. We have a 14 here at work that has stood up well to some considerable abuse, but I am certain it is not a CVT model.
Originally Posted by KCJeep
Saw one posted for sale locally that said it had a CVT transmission. I didn't know Honda was doing that. We have a 14 here at work that has stood up well to some considerable abuse, but I am certain it is not a CVT model.
Originally Posted by KCJeep
Saw one posted for sale locally that said it had a CVT transmission. I didn't know Honda was doing that. We have a 14 here at work that has stood up well to some considerable abuse, but I am certain it is not a CVT model.
I believe 2014 was the last year of the 5 speed transmission; 2015 forward is CVT.
Both are great.
Originally Posted by JimPghPA
I think trany coolers are a good idea for summer driving on Pittsburgh hills. As for the oil catch can, I am pretty sure it is a DI engine without the intake port injections to wash the back side of the intake valves. I know low NOACK like Pennzoil Platinum may help reduce the amount of oil fumes that end up going through the PVC and into the intake. But am wondering if a good catch can can significantly reduce the amount of oil that reaches the intake.
One thing I am wondering about is which would be best, shorter OCI such as 5,000 miles, or the recommended 7,500 miles or annually which ever comes first. There is some thought that fresh oil throws off more fumes than old oil and if that is true then more frequent oil changes might increase the over-all amount of oil fumes that the intake gets, compared to running the oil longer before changing.
Originally Posted by JimPghPA
In the past I used FLAC (first loss-less audio compression format) that only compresses to half the original file size, for most of the songs and I had on a 80 Gig Kenwood MusicKeg in my 1985 Olds 88 coupe. About 1/10 of my songs would not compress with FLAC so I coppied them non-compressed. Still, those 2000 and something songs only used up about 1/2 of the 80 Gig drive. I figure a 128 Gig drive would be big enough for me to add more than the current amount I have.
Follow up: 4/15/2021, with 25,040 miles on it I changed the CVT fluid last week using Honda HCF-2 fluid. I used one of my brothers drive ways because it is level enough that with jacks and jack-stands I could get the vehicle level. I put down a lot of plastic sheets and cardboard so as to not stain his driveway, and took my time. It took 3 hours, but is done correctly.
This vehicle is nice to drive. It is always trying to get the best gas millage and with all the hills in the south-hills of Pittsburgh and the traffic and abundance of red-lights, using economy on all the time and D 98% of the time, using 87 octane my tanks of gas had a worst of 18.83 MPG and a best of 22.35 MPG and most are 20.XX something or 21.XX something. Which is a lot better than our 2001 Impala with the 3.4 Liter 6 cylinder with an automatic that got 13.5 to 17 MPG ever got, and that vehicle had almost exactly the same HP and same weight. And the CR-V has more room, and has much more get-up-and-go. That is with driving on roads with a 25, or 35, or 40 MPH speed limit 98 % of the time. And I do not drive much more that 5 or 6 over the speed limit, and I am glad I do that because in the last 2 weeks I have seen 2 vehicles pulled over for speeding.
The sport mode selection of the CVT ( S ) really does keep it in a lower ratio and it has a lot of get-up-and-go in S mode. There is a long hill with a few turns in it that I go most days, and I put it in S just before I get onto that hill and in S mode it has way more power than I need going up that hill. I actually have to not use too much gas-peddle so I do not abuse the tires and wear them out faster than normal on the turns going up that hill, or even go faster and risk a roll over. It is fun to drive in S because it really gets up and goes if you want it to. But I seldom use S mode unless I am about to go up a steep long hill. Of course in S mode it gets worse gas millage, but again, I seldom use it.
Drive mode has enough power and if you need it to go faster it will if you just give it more gas.
For a vehicle with a fairly large interior space it is quiet enough. And my songs on a flash-drive sound good enough on its stereo. I have not upgraded the sound system, for two reasons. I would have to get something that kept all the vehicle info access available because that is accessed with the center display, and the interior noise while not annoying is enough that I would first have to seriously go over all ways to reduce all road noise getting in before improving the sound system would be worth doing. And I am happy enough with listing to my music as it is.
I may get the heater in the drivers seat modified to come up all the way on the back of the seat for my bad back. And I'm 6'4" tall, and there is a company that makes the gas supports for the rear hatch in a selection of available lengths much longer, which would be nice so I do not accidently hit my head on the opened trunk, but I will have to get the metal modified so it does not hit the roof before I install them. I might get that done. I have been waiting until everyone in my family is vaccinated + 2 weeks for immunity before getting anything like this stuff done.
I am glad I bought this vehicle, but the extended warranty the dealer talked me into was a waste of money, and I realized that before it would of cost me anything to cancel that deal, but the dealer was closed due to C-19 so when they re-opened and I canceled it a month later it cost me $180.00 to get out of it. Still that is a lot less than the totally worthless extended warranty cost. The dealer actually lied to me regarding the time the extended warranty was good for saying to my face that it was good for 7 years from when I bought it, when in reality it was good from 7 years from the day the original owner bought the vehicle. And the Certified warranty that the vehicle came with covered almost everything the real extended covered, for one year, and the drive train for 7 years from the date of the original owner purchase. That lie is why I will never buy from them again.
So, I am happy with the vehicle, but not happy with the dealer.
This vehicle is nice to drive. It is always trying to get the best gas millage and with all the hills in the south-hills of Pittsburgh and the traffic and abundance of red-lights, using economy on all the time and D 98% of the time, using 87 octane my tanks of gas had a worst of 18.83 MPG and a best of 22.35 MPG and most are 20.XX something or 21.XX something. Which is a lot better than our 2001 Impala with the 3.4 Liter 6 cylinder with an automatic that got 13.5 to 17 MPG ever got, and that vehicle had almost exactly the same HP and same weight. And the CR-V has more room, and has much more get-up-and-go. That is with driving on roads with a 25, or 35, or 40 MPH speed limit 98 % of the time. And I do not drive much more that 5 or 6 over the speed limit, and I am glad I do that because in the last 2 weeks I have seen 2 vehicles pulled over for speeding.
The sport mode selection of the CVT ( S ) really does keep it in a lower ratio and it has a lot of get-up-and-go in S mode. There is a long hill with a few turns in it that I go most days, and I put it in S just before I get onto that hill and in S mode it has way more power than I need going up that hill. I actually have to not use too much gas-peddle so I do not abuse the tires and wear them out faster than normal on the turns going up that hill, or even go faster and risk a roll over. It is fun to drive in S because it really gets up and goes if you want it to. But I seldom use S mode unless I am about to go up a steep long hill. Of course in S mode it gets worse gas millage, but again, I seldom use it.
Drive mode has enough power and if you need it to go faster it will if you just give it more gas.
For a vehicle with a fairly large interior space it is quiet enough. And my songs on a flash-drive sound good enough on its stereo. I have not upgraded the sound system, for two reasons. I would have to get something that kept all the vehicle info access available because that is accessed with the center display, and the interior noise while not annoying is enough that I would first have to seriously go over all ways to reduce all road noise getting in before improving the sound system would be worth doing. And I am happy enough with listing to my music as it is.
I may get the heater in the drivers seat modified to come up all the way on the back of the seat for my bad back. And I'm 6'4" tall, and there is a company that makes the gas supports for the rear hatch in a selection of available lengths much longer, which would be nice so I do not accidently hit my head on the opened trunk, but I will have to get the metal modified so it does not hit the roof before I install them. I might get that done. I have been waiting until everyone in my family is vaccinated + 2 weeks for immunity before getting anything like this stuff done.
I am glad I bought this vehicle, but the extended warranty the dealer talked me into was a waste of money, and I realized that before it would of cost me anything to cancel that deal, but the dealer was closed due to C-19 so when they re-opened and I canceled it a month later it cost me $180.00 to get out of it. Still that is a lot less than the totally worthless extended warranty cost. The dealer actually lied to me regarding the time the extended warranty was good for saying to my face that it was good for 7 years from when I bought it, when in reality it was good from 7 years from the day the original owner bought the vehicle. And the Certified warranty that the vehicle came with covered almost everything the real extended covered, for one year, and the drive train for 7 years from the date of the original owner purchase. That lie is why I will never buy from them again.
So, I am happy with the vehicle, but not happy with the dealer.
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Wait, why did it take 3 hours to do trans fluid? I did mine at the same time as doing my oil. Took more time positioning/driving onto the ramps and undoing the under car shield than it did the fluids, lol.
I did not spill a drop on my brothers cement in the back of his house. That is also where they party. And I did not want his wife complaining about oil stains. Even his cement was not level so I had to raise the front of my vehicle some to get it right on level. And I had to raise the driver's side a little more because the cement was lower on that side. Level work areas are scarce around the south hills of Pittsburgh.
One thing I did during draining was to open both passenger doors and raise the drivers side to tilt it to get a little more fluid out.
And when I transferred the used fluid from the catch pan to the 3 gallon container ( actually a used cat litter container ) I had that container in a larger bucket ( actually a used larger yellow rectangle container also a used cat litter container ) and even though I used a large funnel, several ounces missed and ended up in the bigger yellow bucket. But I did not get one drop on the cement.
And when done i gathered up the plastic and cardboard and did not get anything on the cement.
One thing I did during draining was to open both passenger doors and raise the drivers side to tilt it to get a little more fluid out.
And when I transferred the used fluid from the catch pan to the 3 gallon container ( actually a used cat litter container ) I had that container in a larger bucket ( actually a used larger yellow rectangle container also a used cat litter container ) and even though I used a large funnel, several ounces missed and ended up in the bigger yellow bucket. But I did not get one drop on the cement.
And when done i gathered up the plastic and cardboard and did not get anything on the cement.
The overflow for getting the fill level correct is only accurate if the vehicle is level. And true level in Pittsburgh is rare.
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Yeah, I think they’re nice SUV’s and very reliable. I know many people that own them and they love them.
I wish the intake manifold was in the front of the engine is tad of the rear, just to remove it occasionally and clean the valves manually...but in all honesty I haven’t really heard of any carbon buildup problems on these engines. Not sure a catch can would be necessary, but if it’s easy enough to install?? Not going to hurt anything.
We still have a 2008 CRV in the family (gave it to my daughter). Knock on wood, haven’t had one single issue with it since the day we bought it 154,000 miles ago. That’s insane! Good in the snow, good on gas, roomy, comfortable, reliable, and economical.
I wish the intake manifold was in the front of the engine is tad of the rear, just to remove it occasionally and clean the valves manually...but in all honesty I haven’t really heard of any carbon buildup problems on these engines. Not sure a catch can would be necessary, but if it’s easy enough to install?? Not going to hurt anything.
We still have a 2008 CRV in the family (gave it to my daughter). Knock on wood, haven’t had one single issue with it since the day we bought it 154,000 miles ago. That’s insane! Good in the snow, good on gas, roomy, comfortable, reliable, and economical.
As a Honda tech I can say that we never really have any issues with that generation CR-V. We've serviced a few with well north of 200k on their original CVT's, so it's seems Honda got it right with this design
congrats. That car/engine will easily last to 250,000+ miles with common sense TLC.
you'll need to deal with the wear from bad roads and road salt more than anything else (CV joint, axle, flex pipe, etc )
when you get up there in mileage, if you ever get an oil leak, try switching to a different and/or thicker oil before changing the innards (like vtec actuator). and try to avoid using the physical key. Honda lock tumblers wear easily. source: first-hand knowledge
good luck.
you'll need to deal with the wear from bad roads and road salt more than anything else (CV joint, axle, flex pipe, etc )
when you get up there in mileage, if you ever get an oil leak, try switching to a different and/or thicker oil before changing the innards (like vtec actuator). and try to avoid using the physical key. Honda lock tumblers wear easily. source: first-hand knowledge
good luck.
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