Procedure for 1st Trans Fluid change at 90K

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Dec 14, 2011
Messages
52
Location
IL-suks
I have read about many different ways to change the Trans fluid. The two main ones are to do a complete flush and fill or do a pan drain and fill. The pan drain and fill can be done once and/or followed up with a 2nd pan and drain a few days later. My question is which should I do since this will be the vehicles first fluid change and it has 90K miles. It would be a great relief to see the trans full of fresh fluid but then I have heard horror stories of since it was never done before this can cause crude to dislodge and ruin the whole day. Or like in a recent post where leaks started to show up. Should I start out slowly and just do a single pan drain, kinda like a break-in and repeat say maybe in 6 months? Or can someone offer any words of wisdom on this?
The vehicle is a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L.

Thanks,
 
Last edited:
I would do 2 drain/refills. Hyundai does not have user-replaceable ATF filter, so do not worry about that.

When I did it on my Kia Spectra, I spaced a week between D&Rs, since I prefer to work on cars on a weekend.

Are you still under 10y/100K powertrain warranty? If warranty is not a concern, Maxlife is a good, robust alternative to SPIII.
Castrol's Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle is another good alternative. It is a bit thicker than Maxlife, so it might be a good choice for an older transmission.
 
Originally Posted By: Ursae_Majoris
I would do 2 drain/refills. Hyundai does not have user-replaceable ATF filter, so do not worry about that.

When I did it on my Kia Spectra, I spaced a week between D&Rs, since I prefer to work on cars on a weekend.

Are you still under 10y/100K powertrain warranty? If warranty is not a concern, Maxlife is a good, robust alternative to SPIII.


Castrol's Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle is another good alternative. It is a bit thicker than Maxlife, so it might be a good choice for an older transmission.





I think UM is giving you excellent advice.
Fresh fluid can only help your AT, IMO.
 
Originally Posted By: Ursae_Majoris
I would do 2 drain/refills. Hyundai does not have user-replaceable ATF filter, so do not worry about that.
---cut--
Castrol's Transmax Import Multi-Vehicle is another good alternative. It is a bit thicker than Maxlife, so it might be a good choice for an older transmission.


Is doing this for the only reason that it is easy? I don't have a problem with disconnecting cooler lines for a more complete flush. I think the suggestion for the thicker fluid is a good one.
 
Would you drain 2 qts of engine oil then add 2 qts, drive and repeat and call that an oil change? I wouldn't, what you have is cleaner dirty oil.
Ideally you want to change as much of the oil as possible.
Remove the return line and put a clear plastic hose on the end then put the other end into a empty container, run the engine until you see air bubbles in the line then turn it off.

Fill the unit with the same amount removed and repeat until the fluid is the same color as the new fluid going in, it may take 9-15 qts or 3 cycles to accomplish this.
On the last fill only fill to the cold mark on the stick (if it uses one) and drive it until the oil temp is normal, fill to the upper level if needed.

Once you get the hang of doing this its a 20 min job max, and almost all of the fluid is exchanged.
You will not drag up sludge or particles into the unit as it is working as it normally does in every day operation.
 
Originally Posted By: Trav
--cut--
You will not drag up sludge or particles into the unit as it is working as it normally does in every day operation.


Well one would think so but then what about these horror stories? Are they merely coincidence? Is sludge and damaging deposits only located on the pan bottom? In an earlier post the person stated that maybe a seal started to leak because sludge(or something) broke loose from the seal area and opened up a potential leak area. Is the fill tube a direct shot to the pan? Can you leave the drain plug out and pour cleaner down the tube to flush out the floor of the pan instead of removing the pan? or is that ridiculous?
 
Horror stories are usually about people using flushing machines and adding flushing chemicals. Some machines back-flush (reverse the fluid flow). You NEVER want to do that. Cooler line flush with ATF is very different. I used 2xD&R since it was easier to do, and I was not comfortable with cooler-line flush.

If you decide to do a flush, drain and refill the pan first. That's where the oil for the flush/AT pump is being pulled from, so you want to start pumping clean ATF right away. D&R before the flush also cleans the crud, if there is any, in the pan.
Yes, fill tube goes directly to the pan.
 
Last edited:
Kia's service manuals are available online at kiatechinfo.com and for newer Kias the mechanicals are the same as Hyundai. My Rondo has the F4A42 4 speed transmission. The 2.7L V6 was sold as the optional engine for the Rondo and had a 5 speed auto, model A5GF1. This might be the same (or similar) transmission that is in your Santa Fe.

The manual says to use the flush machine, contrary to the dealer's no-flush statments. If you don't have a flush machine, the manual says to disconnect the cooler line with the engine running (!) and then when it runs dry, quickly kill the engine.

Originally Posted By: kiatechinfo.com
RONDO(UN) >2007 > G 2.7 DOHC > Automatic Transaxle System
SERVICE ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE
Automatic transaxle fluid
INSPECTION
1. Drive the vehicle until the fluid reaches normal operating temperature [70~80°C].
2. Place the vehicle on a level surface.
3. Move the selector lever through all gear positions. This will fill the torque converter and the
hydraulic system with fluid and move the selector lever to the "N" (Neutral) or "P"(Park) position.
4. Before removing the oil level gauge, wipe all contaminants from around the oil level gauge. Then take
out the oil level gauge and check the condition of the fluid.
If the fluid smells as if it is burning, it means that the fluid has been contaminated by fine
particles from the bushes and friction materials, a transaxle overhaul may be necessary.
5. Check that the fluid level is at the HOT mark on the oil level gauge. If the fluid level is low, add
automatic transaxle fluid until the level reaches the "HOT" mark.
Auto transaxle fluid:
DIAMOND ATF SP-III, SK ATF SP-III
Quantity : 9.5l
Low fluid level can cause a variety of a abnormal conditions because it allows the pump to take in
air along with fluid. Air trapped in the hydraulic system forms bubbles, which are compressable.
Therefore, pressures will be erratic, causing delayed shifting ,slipping clutches and brakes, etc.
Improper filling can also raise fluid level too high. When the transaxle has too much fluid, gears
churn up foam and acuise the same conditions which occur with low fluid level, resulting in
accelerated deterioration of automatic transaxle fluid. In either case, air bubbles can cause
overheating, and fluid oxidation, which can interfere with normal valve, clutch, and brake
operation. Foaming can also result in fluid escaping from the transaxle vent where it may be
mistaken for a leak.
6. Insert the oil level gauge securely.
When new, automatic transmission fluid should be red. The red dye is added so the assembly
plant can identify it as transmission fluid and distinguish it from engine oil or antifreeze. The red
dye, which is not an indicator of fluid quality, is not permanent. As the vehicle is driven the
transmission fluid will begin to look darker. The color may eventually appear light brown.
REPLACEMENT
If you have a fluid changer, use this changer to replace the fluid. If you do not, replace it using the
following procedure.
1. Disconnect the hose which connects the transmission and the oil cooler.
2. Start the engine and let the fluid drain out.
Running conditions : "N" range with engine idling.
03/12/2012 09:46 AM
The engine should be stopped within one minute after it is started. If the fluid has all drained out
before then, the engine should be stopped at that point.
3. Remove the drain plug(A) from the bottom of the transmission case to drain the fluid.
4. Install the drain plug using a new gasket, and tighten it to the specified torque.
TORQUE :
40 ~ 50Nm (4 ~ 5 kgf.m, 29 ~ 36 lb-ft)
5. Pour the new fluid in through the oil filler tube.
Stop pouring if the full volume of fluid cannot be poured in.
6. Repeat the procedure in step (2).
Check the old fluid for contamination. If it has been contaminated, repeat steps (5) and (6).
7. Pour the new fluid in through the oil filler tube.
8. Reconnect the hose which was disconnected in step (1) above and firmly replace the oil level
gauge.(In case of this "replace", this means after wiping off any dirt around the oil level gauge, insert
it into the filler tube.)
9. Start the engine and run it at idle for 1~2 minutes.
10. Move the select lever through all positions, and then move it to the "N" position.
11. Drive the vehicle until the fluid temperature rises to the normal temperature (70~80°C), and then
check the fluid level again. The fluid level must be at the HOT mark.
12. Firmly insert the oil level gauge into the oil filler tube.


I'm not brave enough for that loosen the cooler line procedure, so I just do a drain and fill, personally. Takes exactly 4 quarts for the drain and fill, which is convenient. I have done one roughly every 16K; 4 of them in 64K miles. Shifts pretty well most of the time but the 2-3 shift can get rough if you are sitting in traffic in hot weather. It's been that way since new. I just shift it manually if that starts happening which is easy with my gated shifter.
 
The horror stories come from people who never change their transmission fluid and the transmission inevitably starts to have problems. When they start having problems THEN they finally think they should change the fluid, when it actually is too late at this point. So when the trans dies shortly after, they blame the fluid change, not their lack of maintenance.

The transmission on my Explorer had the following maintenance (I was not in charge of the maintenace for most of its life): A pan drop/refill at 65k miles and then *gasp* a flush at 135k miles. I then dropped the pan again at around 145k miles. There was a LOT of sludge/crud built up on the pan. Junk that the flush obviously did NOT dislodge. It now has 168k and still [censored] beautifully.
 
Well before this thread gets swept under the carpet I would like to thanks everyone for their input. I am leaning towards the cooler line full drain and to [censored] with the horror stories. LOL I will prob go with Castrol if I can get it at the same price as MaxLife or close to.

Thanks
 
AAP has Castrol for $5.69 a quart. Their price for Maxlife is $6.29 a quart. Order online for in-store pick up for additional $20 off, plus $50 towards next AP purchase.

Code MA30. I just tried 18 quarts, it worked. With the code, 18 quarts are cheaper than 15 w/o the code.
 
I got to wait for next paycheck. This is not like your everyday normal $15 oil change. Yeah I get those AAP $50 offers in the email too.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top