Problems getting diff cover off

[meangreen01]

I'm trying to get the rear diff cover off on my Durango. I did a fluid change about 10k ago using a vacuum pump because I couldn't get it off by hammering on it and prying with screwdrivers. I've got some prybars, but there isn't really anywhere to leverage force, plus it was a Sunday and I didn't want to mess up the cover requiring replacement.

The reason for doing it so soon is that it had unknown maint history, and I'd like to inspect the gears and clean the magnet.

So, should I just wail away on the thing? Would a heat gun help loosen the RTV?

 

[Thax]

That sucks man , ive had no trouble getting my durango's diff cover off. I would try with a soft faced dead blow hammer.I just use a long flathead screwdriver to break the seal once all the bolts are out, but then again mine isnt a PITA.

 

[scott37300]

I use a flat stiff putty knife. If it's just sealed with RTV they can be held on pretty good till you start seperating the RTV, a hammer won't do much. I don't like to use a screw driver to avoid any damage from pounding a 1/2" wide blade in and bending the metal. I've found a putty knife will seperate the seal pretty easy.

 

[dparm]

Putty knife for sure. If it's sharp enough it can cut the RTV/gasket.

 

[rshunter]

Never use a screwdriver on a sealing surface!

 

[demarpaint]

A nice 2" taping knife should do the trick, just work it in nice and easy.

 

[Jimmy9190]

If it's the factory seal, it's on very tightly and you will need a sharp putty knife to get it loose. On my Dakota's rear diff there is a flat spot on the punkin housing, at the lower right corner. I use a short 6" pry bar to pop it loose at that corner and work my way around the cover to get it loose from the housing.

I remember it took a lot of work with a putty knife and a lot of prying to break the original factory seal on my differential. It took a lot of scraping and cleaning with brake cleaner to get all the old orange factory sealant off of it and the cover too.

FWIW, Permatex makes a great sealant especially for differentials and gear oil:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Automot...rtv_sealant.htm

I use it and it works great. With this sealant it's not like pulling teeth to remove the cover next time, either.

 

[meangreen01]

It looks like it's sealed with orange RTV only, no gasket. Who knows, it could still be factory seal?

I'll give it a go with a stiff, sharp putty knife. Hadn't thought of that. I'll try it first without heat as maybe that'll make the RTV more elastic and harder to cut.

I bought a few tubes of oil-resistant black Permatex for the project way back when and still have some left after dropping trans pan, which came off pretty easy.

If I get that rear one off that will give me some hope at getting the front off next, LOL! That one's got a bunch of stuff blocking it making it look like a PITA.

Thanks!

 

[Thax]

Originally Posted By: rshunter
Never use a screwdriver on a sealing surface!

I will keep that in mind next time, i know I shouldnt have used a screwdriver but my diff covers always come off real easy.

 

[rshunter]

Originally Posted By: meangreen01
It looks like it's sealed with orange RTV only, no gasket. Who knows, it could still be factory seal?

That's the Chrysler seal. There's nothing Chrysler-made that they don't feel was improved with a liberal application of silicone...

 

[Jimmy9190]

Originally Posted By: rshunter
Originally Posted By: meangreen01
It looks like it's sealed with orange RTV only, no gasket. Who knows, it could still be factory seal?

That's the Chrysler seal. There's nothing Chrysler-made that they don't feel was improved with a liberal application of silicone...


+1

And there is no other gasket from the factory, just the orange RTV sealant, and lots of it.

 

[SIXSPEED]

You might also try removing the differential fill plug to let the internal pressure equalize. But you probably already done this.

 

[Papa Bear]

What would happen if you blew compressed air into the fill hole, that should blow the cover off.

 

[rshunter]

I'd generally prefer not to use compressed air on anything with seals...

 

[scott37300]

no compressed air, not needed at all. Just use a 2" putty knife. It will come off pretty easy, the first couple inches are the hardest and then you can get a finger in there and pry up to pop the whole thing off.

 

[mechtech2]

Like mentioned, a flat blade worked in the crack will get it off.
Make sure to flatten the steel cover if you messed it up. Judicious use of a hammer with a wood block backing works great.
I prefer to get all the old material off. A wire brush or Scotchbrite on whatever electric or air tool works quickly.

Now , clean and dry it!
Then allow lots of time for the new silicone RTV to set up before filling it. Cold weather takes a lot longer.
It should then be leak free for as long as you want it to be.

 

[meangreen01]

I'm gonna be doing this at the end of the month to coincide with my OCI. Just want to get my ducks in a row, and i'll have to see if I've got a sharp putty knife or if I need to run and get one.

I'll ressurect the tread and let you know how it goes.

Thanks!!!

 

[cbear]

Even if it was RTVed from the factory, you should be able to get a gasket from any parts store. Once you clean up the old RTV, just put in the new gasket and torque it evenly. You shouldn't need any new sealant. This will save you the fight next time.

That's what I did with my Nitro. The guy behind the counter was like, "there is not gasket, just use sealer". Then he when to show me on the computer, and the gasket was listed.

 

[SteveSRT8]

man. I don't know about Dodge but you better be careful those aren't torque-to-yield bolts on that diff cover.

 

[scott37300]

Not all vehicles have a gasket. Lots just use RTV.

What vehicles use torque to yeild bolts on diff cover? Never heard of one before.