Prioritizing Repairs on 2001 Civic

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If the bushing is separated, do those first. Definitely safety. i would do tires next, then the engine maintenance. Dont bother doing regular belts, especially if that T/belt is OEM. If it is, that engine is a time bomb and is an interference engine. Do all the belts at once. Last things i would do are the f/e parts that are leaking grease. Dont bother changing them till they become loose. They are not a safety item if they are just leaking grease.
 
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She probably bloviates to all her friends how foolproof Hondas are how nothing ever wears out and she hasnt had to put a dime into it and she would buy another in a hearbeat after she gets 300K out of it LOL

I would stay clear, tell her to bring it to a dealer and get an estimate to have all the work done. This will educate her that
Hondas have wear parts too and to neglect her car. I suspect she will trade it in when she gets the estimate.
 
Originally Posted By: cathy
Correct if i'm wrong,
The car doesn't have to be junked because it runs well and, Isn't the poor maintenance caused by her (current owner)? She would damage a new one. Often women& car maintenance don't go along.

Ha. Well at least your honest.

Op. so is the owner still driving this thing. The suspension and steering components need immediate attention. Why has she waited until just now to have someone look at it. How long has this pulling hard to the right been an issue.
Honestly,I hope there is a failure. It will teach her these kinds of things need immediate attention,not just put off.
 
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Because she is his friend's girlfriend's daughter. I thought Mike was younger and none of his friend would be dating mother of a grownup daughter!
 
Update: I'll be working on this Civic tomorrow. I have ordered and received the following items:

- Dorman lower control arms w/bushings.
- Beck/Arnley lower ball joints (555 Saneki)
- Beck/Arnley outer tie rod ends (one is 555 Saneki, the other is some Taiwanese stuff).

I'll also be doing another LOF with Mobil Super 5w20 and a Purolator white can.

After the repairs, it'll get two new tires and an alignment as well.
 
Originally Posted By: Bandito440
Yikes. A young gal driving a car with multiple impending failures. I hope she doesn't drive any place that would be dangerous for her to break down alone.

I would deem it unsafe and park it if it were up to me. At least until the suspension, tires, and belts are done.

I agree on the order of repairs: suspension (alignment), tires, belts, gaskets, motor mounts.

At that point, it may be worth junking it and trying to find another car, but with fewer miles and some maintenance history.


I'm no mechanic, but that sounds like it will be a repair bill between $1k and $2k. A serious option would be to try to sell it super cheap to someone that knows how to work on hondas and may even enjoy doing that sort of thing. You'll get more money than selling to a place like pick n pull.

But, while you're looking for a buyer I'd start getting things done unless the car is just parked and not driven.

1.
two new tires (or even a used decent craigslist pair of wheels).
repair of any potentially dangerous steering issues
along with any secondary steering issues that would be practical to do with the same repair session.

2. take the timing belt cover off to take a peek at whether it's the original belt.
add some stop leak oil additive to test whether this is sufficient for making the leaks acceptably small.

3. engine mounts and remaining steering issues

4. the rest of it
 
Originally Posted By: The Critic
Update: I'll be working on this Civic tomorrow. I have ordered and received the following items:

- Dorman lower control arms w/bushings.
- Beck/Arnley lower ball joints (555 Saneki)
- Beck/Arnley outer tie rod ends (one is 555 Saneki, the other is some Taiwanese stuff).

I'll also be doing another LOF with Mobil Super 5w20 and a Purolator white can.

After the repairs, it'll get two new tires and an alignment as well.


I have a 7th gen Civic that will need new control arm bushings soon and was hoping to replace the arm and bushings together so save some work.

Could you tell me why you chose the Doorman lower control arms over the other brands on the Rockauto site? Any comments on their country of origin, quality, fit or finish? Do you think spending an extra $25 per side for a different brand of part would be worthwhile?

Thank you in advance for your input.
 
I can't imagine a vehicle that has been enough to reach this conditon would have good brakes. So, if I was doing the repairs it would be brakes, suspension and tires all at the same time, then mechanical.
 
Originally Posted By: JamesBond


I have a 7th gen Civic that will need new control arm bushings soon and was hoping to replace the arm and bushings together so save some work.

Could you tell me why you chose the Doorman lower control arms over the other brands on the Rockauto site? Any comments on their country of origin, quality, fit or finish? Do you think spending an extra $25 per side for a different brand of part would be worthwhile?

Thank you in advance for your input.


We were trying to keep the repairs as inexpensive as possible. However, as described above, this did cause us some issues. The Dorman arms were the least expensive arms available on RockAuto. I have not made the habit of inspection LCA bushings on cars that I work on (and I will from now on), but the new Dorman bushings seem to have a decent amount of play....which may or may not be normal. If it were my car or a car that needed to last, I would probably go with the Raybestos/Spicer arms.
 
Man, what a day...yesterday.

The lower control arms came off no prob, though the bushing that is closer to the rear of the car is in a very tight spot. A 19mm ratcheting wrench would make the job a lot easier, though two short extensions and a swivel 19mm socket worked nearly as well.

We had some trouble with the ball joints. We ended up buying two new ball joints locally (MasterPro) that came with grease fittings. A local chain tire shop pressed them in for us for $45, as we had difficulty with the autozone loaner kit since the kit lacked the proper extensions. Upon reassembly, the grease fitting on the MasterPro ball joint was interfering with the outer cv joint; the grease fitting kept hitting the outer cv joint so I was unable to reinsert the axle into the knuckle. Note: the original ball joint did not have a grease fitting.

Since it was late, we decided to remove the grease fitting and seal off the hole on the ball joint with some plumber's putty. No, this definitely was not my proudest moment - but my buddy was fine with it and it got the job done. Of course, prior to this, my buddy thought it was a good idea to use a dremel to grind off a bit of the grease fitting - but after an hr of doing this and getting nowhere, we decided to just seal off the hole.
lol.gif


Also, as it turned out, the tie rod ends and lower ball joints were completely ripped open. The joints also had a bit more play than I recalled. So, it was a good thing that they were replaced.

In addition, during disassembly, I found the sway bar end links to be completely torn. So, I obtained some overpriced Chinesium ones from Autozone and installed them. The r/f outer CV boot must have had a slight tear somewhere, since after removing/installing it into the steering knuckle, it started to leak a ton of grease. Lastly, the studs on the R/F hub were a bit chipped (possibly from transport to the shop, or from the many times it was man-handled to grind off the grease fitting from the ball joint), so reinstalling the lug nuts at the end of the night was quite sketchy.

Anyway, at the end of the night, the test drive confirmed that the front-end overhaul had solved all of the noise problems. The car actually drove great with no more pull, wandering or clunking. Unfortunately, I also noticed that the brake pedal was very low and the e-brake to be non-existant.

Clearly, there was a lot more work that needs to be done to this car. My understanding is that the car went to the local shop this morning and received new lug studs, right/front cv axle, new rear shoes, rear drums and new drive belts. Tires and alignment are on-hold until more funds arrive, supposedly.
 
Originally Posted By: zzyzzx
You aren't doing anyone any favors by installing any new parts made by Dorman.


Oh, I'm well aware of that...and so was the owner. They just wanted something really cheap.
lol.gif
 
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