I replace rotors when they reach the minimum stated thickness and they'll go though several sets of pads before that happens. I see no reason to replace them prematurely just because.
I usually just spray the old rotor with brake cleaner, give it a few scrubs with emery paper, then throw the pads on. If your rotors are warped, nothing besides resurfacing will help.,,,
It was common practice to resurface rotors and brake drums years ago. It worked then and should work now. If you don't have the right tools to do it, or don't know how, I can see it being a problem.,,
I guess maybe I should go in the back and lean over my machine shop guy's shoulder to tell him how to do it? Or do you think true BITOGers should have a brake lathe at home so they can do it properly? I'm just saying most of the machine shop guys in my town are true salt-of-the-earth fellas who are that perfect combination of not highly paid nor highly trained.
It was common practice to resurface rotors and brake drums years ago. It worked then and should work now. If you don't have the right tools to do it, or don't know how, I can see it being a problem.,,
It has always worked for resurfacing rotors to remove minor ridges and the brake material from the previous set of pads, but you can't bend a rotor back to true with a lathe.
A brand new rotor is usually only good for 2 or maybe at the most 3 mm of wear, so that doesn't leave a lot of room to machine out any warp after it's already worn down through a set of pads. That's total thickness, so each side has 1 to 1.5mm of life.
I see FB market place advertise for $30 per rotor in my area. A new rotor for my car is about $30.
I won't trust those guys who couldn't even take good photos of their workplace and they couldn't keep their place organized and clean for advertisement. I would take my risk with Amazon's 30 day free return instead (you can always buy 1 more to replace the bad one and return the bad one).