If the car made a lot of short trips, the oil never got hot enough for a synthetic oil to help with any high-temp properties.
Premium Guard PG111 - HPL Engine Flush Oil Results
- Thread starter RDY4WAR
- Start date
Shame on you! You're not a very good SIL, for letting that engine get like that. 
WOW! I think it worked very well.
WOW! I think it worked very well.
$15 individually, $14 in a 6 pack or 12 qt case. "BITOG15" gets you 15% off, "BITOGFLUSH15" gets a quart in your choice of a case of oil swapped for a quart of flush oil, still at 15% off, and your engine will stay clean going forward.
David
Wish I knew about this when I placed my order in August! Looks impressive.
I took a look inside the engine with a borescope before using this oil. I found a lot of varnish but very little sludge. There was only a small amount in the lifter valley.
The engine had/has an oil consumption issue where it would be down 0.75-1 quart at 3k miles when she'd roll it into Jiffy Lube or Walmart Lube Center. During the oil change with the flush oil, it was consuming about the same rate for the first 1,500 miles and then slowed down. It was 1 quart down at 5k miles when I changed it. Given these results with the high amount of crud in the filter, I'm thinking there was a good bit of oil coked around the rings (likely from inferior, volatile base oils) that was causing the consumption and was cleaned up a bit by the flush oil. I have a feeling this engine still needs more cleaning.
She's always gone with the cheapest option which is likely conventional though she said she did get synthetic "a couple times when there was a special."
Her work commute is short at just 3 miles each way. She drives out to our house once a week about 40 miles each way.
OVERKILL
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But remember, we've been told Supertech is just as good as Mobil 1....
The API approvals, particularly historically, haven't set the bar very high. When you get into the Euro stuff, that's where the playing field gets levelled because the limits are so much more strict, the tests that much more difficult and subsequently the bar astronomically higher. That's evident even in just the basic specs like Noack.
I've seen inside the valve covers of our 5.7L HEMI's at work on NAPA bulk 5w-20 (Valvoline). They look nothing like my Mobil 1 engines, which are on much longer OCI's. Yes, anecdotal, but you see enough of the same or similar engines run on different lubes it's pretty easy to discern that there's a difference between the tiers of what's on the shelf.
That commute is no help.
Does this free stuck piston rings or unclog oil return rings?
The ester will dissolve deposits on oil rings as well as any other area it touches in the engine. It is designed to clean at a slower rate. In an effort to not over run the oil filter in a dirty system.
Is that one quart of flush and 4 quarts of oil in an engine that takes only 5 quarts? Or do I need to calculate a ratio based on a 6 quart capacity?
Use one quart for replacement for a sump capacity of 5 quarts or higher. If it's an 8 quart sump, still one quart is fine. Keep it around 10-20% of sump capacity.
Impressive cleaning results!
Was the filter USA made?
I’m betting it’s made in Korea or China
@wwilson, I will be using the HPL EC30 next in the wife's V6 Pentastar Durango soon.
I see quite a bit of residual carbon buildup remaining captured in the can style filters.
Just thinking the cartridge provides some what of a disadvantage here to catch it?
What did you see on your Durango, thank you.
I would think a cartridge would leave some opportunity for the “loose” carbon to make its way back into the system as the oil left in the housing drains back in as the filter is removed.
In a spin-on filter, I don’t really care if the carbon is on/in the element or in the can, as long as the media was not plugged to the point that the bypass was operating frequently. In the can, by whatever means necessary, means that it’s not in the engine.
I agree with both points.I would think a cartridge would leave some opportunity for the “loose” carbon to make its way back into the system as the oil left in the housing drains back in as the filter is removed.
In a spin-on filter, I don’t really care if the carbon is on/in the element or in the can, as long as the media was not plugged to the point that the bypass was operating frequently. In the can, by whatever means necessary, means that it’s not in the engine.
Filter and oil with 21,000 miles:
Dodge Durango 3.6L - HPL 5w-20 - 21,079 Miles on oil
Previous UOA: https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/dodge-durango-3-6l-hpl-5w-20-15-820-miles-on-oil.339553/ This is a sample pulled from my Durango 3.6L with 132,679 miles total and 21,079 miles on the oil. The oil is HP 5w-20 by High Performance Lubricants in Manteno, IL. This oil is...
bobistheoilguy.com
Next oil run with 5,000 miles on the oil and filter:
Dodge Durango 3.6L - second run of HPL 5w-20 - 5,000 miles on oil - filter pictures at 5,000 mile change interval
Below are pictures of the oil and filter run for 5,000 miles. This is my second run of HPL 5w-20 HDEO in my 3.6L Durango. The total miles on HPL oil is now 33,500 miles. Because the filter was so loaded with deposits being cleaned during my first run of HPL, I decided to change the filter every...
bobistheoilguy.com
