Pre filling oil filters.

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I pre filled my Supertech tonight when I was changing out my break in oil on my rebuilt LS1.
It didn't seem to make the oil pressure rise any faster then with out prefilling it. I'll try a different oil filter next time and see if it makes any difference.
 
Did you keep track of the amount of oil the filter accepted? It takes some time for the oil to soak through the filter media and actually fill the filter. This may take refilling the filter 4 or more times and allowing it to soak down. Of course the passages above the filter will be empty so it well never come up quite as fast when the filter has been replaced.
 
Dickwells has a good point. If you can find the right AC filter at a reasonable price, I would stick with it. I have found the PST is about as good as most of the other moderately priced filters, but none of them have as much filter area as the AC. My Advance Auto has a few AC numbers for $3.36. Not that much more than an ST.
 
Chris B.,

In my experience there is a MARKED difference BTW the time it takes pressure to come up when you don't pre-fill than when you do. The point can be made that no more often than most of us change our oil (even if we are frequent changers) that it really isn't a big deal; but I figure it is easy to pre-fill, so I will cut wear wherever I can.

PS Do note what the guys are saying about making sure you have actually gotten a significant enough amount of oil into the filter..."filling" it one time to the neck of the exit port is not enough...try it...fill it and let it sit..."Where did all that oil go?"
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[ September 04, 2003, 01:38 PM: Message edited by: pscholte ]
 
Thanks guys! I did fillit several times and it took about 1/2 qt of oil. I'll keep doint this as it might have been a hair faster.
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I do the same thing with my LS1 as well. I've used several types of filter, but I always pre-charge it. Some of them do take almost a pint. I guess it depends on how much space is taken up internally with filter media, end caps, bypass valves, and anti-drainback valves.

Anyway, I've never seen any obvious differences between any of the filters in the timing of the oil pressure. There's always a couple seconds of delay on that first start. It must have something to do with the oil pickup being dry as well as the oil that "drained back" after the filter was removed.

I don't worry about it anymore
 
In pre filling my oil filters, I have found that you don't want to fill the filter 100% full. Fill to 1/2 or 3/4 full only. The oil pump will fill the remainder. Now to look at how to quickly build up oil pressure after an oil change....How about using a pre-lube system. This is also known as an accumulator. During the oil change, you would drain the pre lube canister and fill with fresh oil. Then when you turn on the ignition, you would pressurise the entire engine with fresh oil by using the pre lube system.
 
After an oil change is going to be the longest peroid of time your engine is not going to have oil pressure while running, so I think pre-filling is a great idea. Get that pressure up quick as possible.

I also used to wonder how well a dry oil filter element liked getting pounded by the oil on that first startup.

I can fit 3/4ths (approx) of a quart in my Napa Gold 1515s and still not have much if anything spill out during installation. Takes a few top-offs of the filter, but it helps.
 
I think the size of the filter has to do with it

like all new chevy's the ls1 has a small filter for the size of the motor (and I assume the flow of the pump)

you did not see a difference because the filter filled quickly weather pre-charged or not

when I was a teenager i tried one of the huge 2 quart filters on my chevy van it took forever to get oil pressure as the pump filled the big filter, from then on I pre-filled to prevent that

those engines with ½qt or smaller filters may not notice a diffrence but that is ½qt less of air that will be punped through your bearings

as was said earlier it cant hurt

BTW if you are really bowed up you can get more in by gently depressing the ADBV (if installed on your filter) with a dowel or something else that will not damage the vale to allow the trapped air out through the inlet of the filter so you can poor more in the outlet


quote:

Originally posted by Virtuoso:
I also used to wonder how well a dry oil filter element liked getting pounded by the oil on that first startup.

same here with only nice compressible air in the system oil can rush in

[ October 09, 2003, 09:49 PM: Message edited by: RavenTai ]
 
On the wife's 4.0 Cherokee and my 3.9 Dodge p/u engines, I will preoil the filter, then pull the coil wire and let it crank for about 10 seconds. Plug in the coil wire, start with instant oil pressure. Can't really do that on the Cavalier, which has coil packs...but maybe there is a fuse you can pull to prevent starting. Just haven't really checked.
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My oldsmobile ciera service manual says pull the ecm fuse when doing a spark test.

It has the coil packs, and still sparks with the module in backup mode. But the fuel injectors don't go, and the car doesn't run.

Might be something similar if you can find the GM shop manual for your cav.
 
Disabling injectors is better than disabling spark. Why whould you want to add unburned fuel blowby to that new oil change?

Just prefill the filter the best you can and don't worry about wearing out your starter/battery.....unplugging coils/fuses/relays....
The filter is like a sponge. Even with upside down mounting, I can usually add plenty of oil to it with any spillage.
 
To disable the injectors just floor the gas pedal when cranking. The PCM will turn them off at this point. I do this in the winter before starting the car. Let it crank for 5-10 seconds then let up on the gas.
 
There are some that don't recommend you pre-oil the filter.

It does make some sense, because you are putting unfiltered oil into it and then that oil goes to the engine before it gets filtered. What are the chances that something negative will occur, maybe very small but if you are not careful it can happen.

btw-I have pre-oiled my filters for over 30 yrs and never had a problem.
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Mike, it makes no sense though, because when you change your oil, ALL of the new oil you're putting into it is unfiltered, so what's the difference if the oil going into that filter is unfiltered too?

New oil has virtually nothing in it to worry about anyways.
 
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