PP 5W30 5,642- Mazdaspeed 3 2.3L DISI Turbo

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Flashpoint dropped to where possibly getting some dillution, interesting since I had changed jobs and now have a much longer commute where engine is getting fully warm on each trip. Otherwise looks pretty good I think. Have put another 10k on it since this report, will have another sample up soon. After powertrain warranty expires, going to convert to a spin-on filter and do my own changes. May try RTS 5-40W at some point, lots of others with similar high-output engines seem to have real good results with it, and I'm in TX where the heat should work well with a 40W. Ultimately hoping to keep this car running strong for 10 years or 300k. Your comments are welcome, thanks!

uoa03072009.jpg
 
Not bad. These 2.3T's and VW 2.OT's have fuel dillution problems. I would stick to 5K OCI's.


PROJECTCAR, Welcome to this site. Can you please stop posting in caps. This is considered yelling on the internet. Thanks.
 
I wasn't aware of the yelling situation until yesterday and really didn't think of it as offensive. However, i will attempt to limit my use of all caps.
 
Im still learning to read these reports as well. Yours looks pretty good to me. Im curious about the viscosity and wonder what input some of the experts here have to say. Perhaps its the summer heat that effected this oil change/fuel from short trips. You mentioned possibly going to a 40W, I wonder also what kind of results you might get by simply moving to a 10W/30 instead of the 5W/30. What does everyone think?
 
Good looking add. package on that PP.

Your oil was seriously fuel diluted. Did you take it on a nice 20-25 minute drive right before your sample? No idling right beforehand?

If you did both of those, then your car really needs a heavier grade oil. That ebing said, the PP seems to have done a very nice job protecting the engine.
 
Originally Posted By: PROJECTCAR
OIL OUT OF GRADE AND BLACKSTONE RECOMENDS A LONGER INTERVAL?????


If the oil is protecting the engine just fine, then what does it matter how thick it is?
 
Was trying to stock up on the 5qt jugs of PP 5W-30 Walmart has for $20 right now, but they were out today. Almost got some RTS 5W-40 to try... Going to wait until next summer though when PT warranty is up and it's warm out again.
 
Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
Originally Posted By: PROJECTCAR
OIL OUT OF GRADE AND BLACKSTONE RECOMENDS A LONGER INTERVAL?????


If the oil is protecting the engine just fine, then what does it matter how thick it is?


That's my take. While fuel is high, it doesn't seem to be an issue in the other numbers. At least not enough to fret over.
 
Originally Posted By: Gary Allan


That's my take. While fuel is high, it doesn't seem to be an issue in the other numbers. At least not enough to fret over.


I've noticed the same in my Mazdaspeed 6. There is obvious fuel dilution, but the wear numbers don't seem to be too high. The potential for a problem is there, but it doesn't seem to actually take the next step.

The Pennzoil Platinum in my car is going to hit about 5,000 miles this weekend. I have some jugs of Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 that I was planning on using.I'm just curious if an xW-40 would be a safer bet given the wicked warm summer we've been having in Houston.
 
The 2.3l in the Mazda and Ford throw a bit more iron because of the balance shafts. That said, this oil held up well on a known fuel dilution machine.

Any high mark for PP.
 
Originally Posted By: Scott P
Gary Allan said:
The Pennzoil Platinum in my car is going to hit about 5,000 miles this weekend. I have some jugs of Mobil 1 AFE 0W-30 that I was planning on using.I'm just curious if an xW-40 would be a safer bet given the wicked warm summer we've been having in Houston.


Yes, it would be better for summer as it's a thicker viscosity. Not only that, 0w-40 M1 is a very thin 40 weight oil, almost a 30 weight. Also, a lot of people claim all M1 oils other than 0W-40 have gone down in quality, whereas their 0w-40 is still a top notch oil right up there with GC and PP and Amsoil. Note that I'm not saying that (I run 0w-30 M1 in my wifes SUV that halls all my kids around). Just that I've seen people saying that around these parts. But there are plenty of exemplary 0w-40 M1 UOA's around to prove it's elite stuff.
 
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Go thicker.

BTW, all your UOAs are excellent for this engine.

I'd stick with the brand is for you to decide.
M1 high mileage 5w30/10w30, Castrol Syntec 0w30, M1 0w40, are all thicker if you want the film thickness protection for your climate and fuel dilution.

Pennzoil Platinum is also in a 5w40.

1-2quarts of 5w40 added to your 5w30 will give you some visc without overly slowing down the turbo spool up, or sucking up to much oil-pumping power from the engine.

Other option is to toss the balance shafts.
 
Be wary on the balance shaft delete. Some people have made a correlation to that and blown engines. Granted, it's far from proven and could easily be coincidental on such a small sample of cars, but it's given me some pause until at least more can be learned.

I may be giving up on the platform entirely though... just a scary situation right now, and with this being my DD, I don't know if I want to stay for much longer.
 
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