Power steering fluids for GM 2001 Grand Prix

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I'm looking to flush out my power steering system. 2001 Grand Prix.
Was looking at this fluid l found mentioned on here, MAG 1 00816 Power Steering Fluid, nothing came up in a search though.
Oddly, it says for top off only, and not for refilling the entire system.
This Fram brand is reasonable, about $20.00 for a gallon at Advance Auto. I was thinking that might be good enough.
And the NAPA is about $25.000 a gallon.
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/PSF9801?impressionRank=1
Is there really much difference? I don't think I want to use synthetic PSF or ATF.
 
It doesn't matter that much. I don't think they're that picky. The only PS systems that are that picky are Hondas that use their own fluid, and Euro cars using CHF.

In your case, anything labeled "power steering fluid" will be fine. Use the cheapest Dex/Merc "formerly Dexron III" you can find. Dexron III is what it originally came with. The fluids you're considering are a waste of money.

What's wrong with synthetic? :unsure:

Honestly, you don't even need to flush it out at all, unless you're replacing something in the system.
 
I don't know. I thought a lot of people said not to use synthetic unless it was used since day one, as it might be easier to leak?
The manual calls for GM Power Steering Fluid GM Part No. 1052884 - 1 pint, 1050017 - 1 quart or equivalent.
There is a clear fluid in there now, at least it doesn't look like ATF.
Fluids.jpg
 
The basic parts store or walmart PS fluid (Fram, Supertech, etc) works fine in GM cars unless you need heavy duty or have a problem to solve. Also, synthetic will not cause leaks unless the seals or system are already damaged.

As @slacktide_bitog suggested, there is rarely a need to flush the PS system. One quart is enough to replace all the fluid in a Grand Prix.
 
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GM's come factory filled with Power Steering Fluid, Not ATF.

Though TES-295 ATF is a fine power steering fluid fluid replacement. I boiled the power steering fluid over a couple times in my 2500HD....TES-295 solved it!
How do see this oil? My problem is cold operation whine- I just did a GM PS oil change- I've tried many oils and additives and changed out pumps, next step would be the hoses- maybe the liners are collapsing (made up hydraulic hoses). I've converted over to HB so that a added burden on the system.

 
The basic parts store or Walmart PS fluid (Fram, Supertech, etc.) works fine in GM cars unless you need heavy duty or have a problem to solve. Also, synthetic will not cause leaks unless the seals or system are already damaged.

As @slacktide_bitog suggested, there is rarely a need to flush the PS system. One quart is enough to replace all the fluid in a Grand Prix.
So, I'll probably just get the Fram then.
Probably siphon it out and refill a few times, I didn't really mean flush exactly. Should I drive a few days between sucking out the fluid and refilling?
 
How do see this oil? My problem is cold operation whine- I just did a GM PS oil change- I've tried many oils and additives and changed out pumps, next step would be the hoses- maybe the liners are collapsing (made up hydraulic hoses). I've converted over to HB so that a added burden on the system.

Cold operation in Edson is 40 below. My Duramax ps pump whines when it's cold out, and so do I.
I've spent some time at Hinton Pulp, so I know what your winters are like.
You have a bulk lubricant dealer on 4th, Dandy Fuel. The TES 995 clone is PC Duradrive multi-vehicle. The new product is TES 668 Dura-drive.
 
How do see this oil? My problem is cold operation whine- I just did a GM PS oil change- I've tried many oils and additives and changed out pumps, next step would be the hoses- maybe the liners are collapsing (made up hydraulic hoses). I've converted over to HB so that a added burden on the system.

Probably not a lot of help here, but one of the GM numbers, pretty sure they said, Power Steering Fluid GM Part No. 1052884 - 1 pint, was a lower viscosity, for cold climates, like up in Canada and such.
But Amazon has this ACDelco-10-5044, said to be for cold climates.
 
So, I'll probably just get the Fram then.
Probably siphon it out and refill a few times, I didn't really mean flush exactly. Should I drive a few days between sucking out the fluid and refilling?
Personally, I would just replace it all at once. Just raise the front end on jack stands, and then
1. suck the fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster.
2. Disconnect the return hose and stick the end into a 2 liter soda bottle, wedged somewhere below the reservoir to keep it from spilling.
3. turn the ignition to the RUN position without starting the car, and turn the wheel lock to lock 5 or 6 times. This will expel all the old fluid from the rack and the lines.
4. reconnect the return hose and fill the reservoir with new fluid. Remove the soda bottle from the vehicle.
5. turn the wheels lock to lock a few more times, add more fluid, and repeat.
6. When turning the wheels no longer drops the fluid level, double check that the soda bottle has been removed.
7. Triple check that the bottle has been removed; else you may have a big mess to clean up later.
8. Then start the car and turn lock to lock a few more times.
9. Top off the fluid level.
Done.
 
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Personally, I would just replace it all at once. Just raise the front end on jack stands, and then
1. suck the fluid out of the reservoir with a turkey baster.
2. Disconnect the return hose and stick the end into a 2 liter soda bottle, wedged somewhere below the reservoir to keep it from spilling.
3. turn the ignition to the RUN position without starting the car, and turn the wheel lock to lock 5 or 6 times. This will expel all the old fluid from the rack and the lines.
4. reconnect the return hose and fill the reservoir with new fluid. Remove the soda bottle from the vehicle.
5. turn the wheels lock to lock a few more times, add more fluid, and repeat.
6. When turning the wheels no longer drops the fluid level, double check that the soda bottle has been removed, then start the car and turn lock to lock a few more times.
7. Top off the fluid level.
Done.
Sounds good, thanks, Yeah, I saw that somewhere else too, maybe on here, might have even been you, about turning the wheel lock to lock a few times to force out the fluid. I guess the pistons or whatever in the rack push it out?
 
I have posted this procedure before, but I don't think I was the only one.

Doing partial "suck, fill, repeat" procedures will also work, but wastes some of the new fluid each time it is sucked. The procedure I described moves the piston back and forth to expel the old fluid. New fluid then replaces the old, and there is no need to remove any more fluid because the old is all gone.
 
Cold operation in Edson is 40 below. My Duramax ps pump whines when it's cold out, and so do I.
I've spent some time at Hinton Pulp, so I know what your winters are like.
You have a bulk lubricant dealer on 4th, Dandy Fuel. The TES 995 clone is PC Duradrive multi-vehicle. The new product is TES 668 Dura-drive.
You are right- cold start at any temp whines, more in winter tho.

There is a GM cold climate oil- tried it all- except this TES 295.
 
GM's come factory filled with Power Steering Fluid, Not ATF.

Though TES-295 ATF is a fine power steering fluid replacement. I boiled the power steering fluid over a couple times in my 2500HD....TES-295 solved it!
If I wanted to "cheap out" could I use any old ATF I had laying around or does it need to be TES-295 ATF?
Or just "suck it up" and buy any old power steering fluid?
 
Any Dexron III will work.

I suggest disconnecting the lower return line, drain into a pan.
Then fill it up…

Adding a Wix 33033 filter to the return line is my second suggestion…
 
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