post your latest transmission lubricant change.

2015 Tacoma 4.0 V6 5 speed auto.

Out: 3+ quarts of WS

In: 3+ quarts of WS

Old fluid looked great. Not nearly as dark as it appears in the jug

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I’m gonna post my last two. My sons 2000 Toyota Corolla, I bought it for the kids 6 years ago with less than 100k miles for $2000. Put $300 worth of ball joints, shocks and all new fluids in it. This included a new tranny filter and Walmart brand atf. At around 250k miles I got around to changing it. Believe it or not it wasn’t that bad, definitely dark but no burnt smell and still some red to it. Put maxlife in it and worked as good as it always had. My son wrecked it shortly after, was a shame because it ran great, perfect even.

Today I did a drain and fill on my sons new to him 2008 Ford Focus (87k miles) with maxlife. The atf looked bad, much worse than the Corolla with 140k on the Walmart fluid, different vehicles I know.
I’m gonna do a couple drain and fills then switch to redline d-6.
 
Pulled trans cooler line, installed fitting, and flushed 10 qts of Havoline multi vehicle synthetic ATF.
Used 2qts for flushing power steering by pulling low pressure hose, plugging reservoir, lifted vehicle and turned wheels lock to lock.

Steering pump much quieter, transmission shifts good, little less harsh on 1-2 shift
 
2018 Kia optima 2.4 6 speed at
28k miles
Out: OEM SP-IV 4 qts
In: Valvoline MaxLife Multi Vehicle ATF ~ 5 qts

Fluid was black as night. Magnet was very bad.

Shifting seems slightly better, especially at low speeds but nothing major at this mileage. Will probably do again in 30k. Glad I researched this on this site and kia/hyundai forums. The OEM fluid price stuff is a rip and not necessary.

Wish I used an actual transmission funnel with a tube. Made a huge mess while my funnel would burp fluids. Finally I just poured slow as hell.

The amount of clips and screws that needed to be removed to get off the cardboard was absolutely ridiculous. The job was easily triple the time because of it. Nothing but billable hours.
 

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It was more than I wanted..... I have done many transmission fluid changes since my youth working for Chevrolet... it was simple really... speed wrench on the bolts and doing it so the pan would flop down towards the catch basin after belting it with a rubber hammer..... Changing the filter in those days was simple as well... clean up the pan, new gasket, fill it up..... so simple... right? This is what I expected when I decided to change the tranny fluid as a preventative measure on my 1995 C1500 W/T with a 4.3 liter engine..... until I started in looking/researching etc....

I tried to buy a direct OEM replacement filter and found out they had a new one with an adapter etc... OK... I don't like that but will accept that fact and proceed.... got the tranny fluid as well... and that was all good.... Then started reading....and looking.... geez.. the transmission pan is located above the crossmember.... Now if it was a new 1995 truck, simply remove the cross member.... It is NOT new.... but that might be one of my choices... and would grind off the rusted bolts and replace them... Then there were the videos... jack up the engine a bit to get clearance? I don't think so!!!! So I am considering removing the fluid with a brake bleeding vacuum system with a tube down the transmission fluid tube, suck out as much as I can and refill and of course, obviously skipping the transmission filter...... I now understand why transmission service places get a ton of money for this service.....

By the way.... my son has the same truck only a 1994.... and the crossmember is NOT in the way on his truck.... simple to do....

Do I have any other alternatives? Is just leaving the filter in place and replacing the fluid acceptable? Remember, it is a 1995 but only has 80,000 miles on it.... or should I just leave it alone?
 

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It was more than I wanted..... I have done many transmission fluid changes since my youth working for Chevrolet... it was simple really... speed wrench on the bolts and doing it so the pan would flop down towards the catch basin after belting it with a rubber hammer..... Changing the filter in those days was simple as well... clean up the pan, new gasket, fill it up..... so simple... right? This is what I expected when I decided to change the tranny fluid as a preventative measure on my 1995 C1500 W/T with a 4.3 liter engine..... until I started in looking/researching etc....

I tried to buy a direct OEM replacement filter and found out they had a new one with an adapter etc... OK... I don't like that but will accept that fact and proceed.... got the tranny fluid as well... and that was all good.... Then started reading....and looking.... geez.. the transmission pan is located above the crossmember.... Now if it was a new 1995 truck, simply remove the cross member.... It is NOT new.... but that might be one of my choices... and would grind off the rusted bolts and replace them... Then there were the videos... jack up the engine a bit to get clearance? I don't think so!!!! So I am considering removing the fluid with a brake bleeding vacuum system with a tube down the transmission fluid tube, suck out as much as I can and refill and of course, obviously skipping the transmission filter...... I now understand why transmission service places get a ton of money for this service.....

By the way.... my son has the same truck only a 1994.... and the crossmember is NOT in the way on his truck.... simple to do....

Do I have any other alternatives? Is just leaving the filter in place and replacing the fluid acceptable? Remember, it is a 1995 but only has 80,000 miles on it.... or should I just leave it alone?
I think, as long as the pan isnt leaking, your suck and refill procedure would be the best option. It's what I would do personally. Just my 2 cents
 
Not transmission but the transfer case . My 4wd was not working last couple day . Also it making some noise . Check the fluid and I think it have about a quart . Drain it and fill with 2 qt and all smooth again . It’s our last Bad day in Texas View attachment 45911
Did the same thing on my Ford truck
Used Redline D6

You were needing something to do in a bad way ......that’s snow on the ground !😳😳🤣🤣
 
I did front diff and transmission fluid pan drop and filter change today . 2 qt for front diff and almost 9 qt for transmission . Most peoples say it took 7.5 qt for pan drop and filter change on the 6r80 Ford transmission . Idk I over fill it not .

I was add 5 qt and it’s already come out the fill hole . I start up the engine and it’s empty on dip stick . I keep add half qt and shift from park to 1 . And back to part . Fan come on 2 time . And fluid level was at hot cross mart . Tight everything back up . Take it out for a drive . Drive awesome ! Went home and put in park while engine run and my dip stick level was way way above the cross mark . Did I over fill ?

anyway I use 2 jug of Valvoline Max life . Even though Ford not approve or Licence .Mercon LV . I do trust valvoline max life . I been use it for ever in many different vehicles for not to trust it

Anyway the front diff . I was using a bottle pump . Fluid come out white milky and thick . I was gonna replace with cheap super tech 80-90 and flush it . But I end up using valvoline full synthetic 75w90 .

look like the atf filter never been change . Still have Ford original number

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Protips : if you do get those gear oil in a easy fill bag . Keep them bag and reuse it next time incase you can only find bottle instead of easy fill bag .
 
2021 Stinger gt Awd. Replaced rear diff fluid with amsoil 75w90, in the process of drain and fills in the transmission with Signature Atf
 
Good to see you sticking with Redline. That's one positive about boutique oil companies; when they figure out the best blend for a product it rarely if ever changes.
Redline is good stuff for sure.
The difference is very noticeable over the FF stuff.

It’s smooth as butter now !!!
Redline is my go to for fluids 👍👍👍
 
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