post your latest transmission lubricant change.

Project xB, now standing at 289k
I d+f 4qt of Toyota WS back when I had a hook at the local dealer, I no longer do 😢
PXL_20221024_211412678.jpg

But this stuff worked out at 8.71 a liter, even cheaper 🥰
 
2019 dodge Grand caravan

9 1/2 qts 2 ST ATF+4
3 1/2 qts Valvoline ATF+4
4qts castrol ttansmax ATF/CVT universal
1 bottle of lubeguard red
 
Drained and filled 3 quarts trans fluid with Supertech Mercon V, 2004 Ford Taurus. Car rides so so sooooooo smooth. Feel like anything drained and filled with same will only improve it further but. For now.. it is acceptably super smooth.

Supertech Mercon V is hard to find on the shelf, usually, and aside from Motorcraft Mercon V I am not sure I'd put anything else in this AX4N.
 
2020 Ranger 10R80 - 30,000 miles

Sucked out ~3qts of whatever mix is in there, which is a combination of factory and Valvoline ULV as I've done 2 other D&F's before.

In went 3qts of Valvoline ULV and 3oz of LG Platinum.
How hard is it to do an extraction and refill on that trans? When I was trying to get a new Ranger a few years ago, I was going to do a few drain and fill because I would be towing with it.
 
How hard is it to do an extraction and refill on that trans? When I was trying to get a new Ranger a few years ago, I was going to do a few drain and fill because I would be towing with it.
Not hard. I made a tool out of a metal toilet stand pipe that mimics the 'official' Ford tool that they want $100 for. Just a tube with a 180 deg bend in it.

Checking the fluid is much harder, and hotter, even if you do the cold check method.
 
2007 Honda Ridgeline
103,130 miles

Out: 1st drain and fill of Aisin DW1 fluid after 600 miles
In: 3.5 quarts of Aisin DW1 fluid.
Probably the last DW1 fill as product is now unavailable on Rock Auto.
Wondering if I can mix new Idemitsu Type H with existing DW1 fill for the third drain and fill.
 
2008 Mercedes E320 Bluetec 722.9 seven forward + two reverse transmission. 155k miles.
39k miles on fluid. Kind of brown, but not burnt.
Out ~9 liters of Fuchs Titan ATF 4134 and Mercedes filter.
In: 9 liters (less overflow) Fuchs Titan ATF 4134 and Corteco filter.
New aluminum screws, magnets, white tube, washers, and TC plug.

They aren't that hard to service. Overflow at 114F and plug her up.

The TC plug. Its not that hard to find. Just turn the crank with a 27mm box wrench while watching the hole. One person op.
IMG_6771.jpg


Valve Body of expensive Euro transmission. The case is Titanium alloy. The computer is underneath the Valve Body. TQ is still draining - they take forever.

IMG_6775.jpg
 
Last edited:
2007 Infiniti M35 sedan
124,705 miles

2nd drain and fill done after 1,300 miles
Out: 4 quarts of Idemitsu Matic J
In: 3 quarts of Idemitsu Matic J, 1 quart of Idemitsu Matic S
Did a test drive and shifts are quicker and smoother than before the first drain and fill, especially the downshifts. I plan to do a 3rd and final one before putting the car in storage for the winter.
 
Last edited:
03 Trailblazer 4L60E; closing on 250K miles. Original trans, no service other than a previous fluid/filter change.

Trans was slow to engage reverse, only when cold (below freezing). Worked great 3-seasons, slow to hit reverse first thing in the morning in winter.

Took it to a local, trusted trans shop. They had no idea; thought maybe the valve body warped and didn't seal when the cold contracted the metal.

Ignored the problem for about ten years. So long that I've kinda lost track of when this issue started, but "years and years" Every winter, slow to engage reverse first-thing in the morning, every spring/summer/fall the trans worked beautifully.

A year and a half ago, I thought I was getting some shift-flare under heavy throttle. Not every time. As soon as I felt the flare the third time, I remembered that I was way overdue for a fluid flush and filter change. Fluid was getting maroon rather than "red" like it should be, but not "burnt" or "brown".

Dropped and cleaned the pan, (it had very little debris) replaced filter, reinstalled pan. Dropped a cooler tube, flushed all the old fluid until the fluid coming out of the cooler tube was virgin-new looking. Reconnected cooler tube, topped-off fluid level. 15 quarts of Dex/Merc (Dexron III equivalent) altogether.

This is the second winter that I've had no problems engaging reverse. Practically a miracle-cure.
 
Redline MTL and Redline 75w-90 in the '74 BMW's transmission and diffy.

Not sure the MTL shift feel is as good as whatever was in it, seems a bit balkier. I've had great experiences with Redline gear oils overall, but this could be the second car I've had where it made for a worse shift feel. The other being our 996/911, which are known for finicky transmissions.
 
How did you determine which fluid to use? The local dealer hasn't been any help for my BMW and insists the ATF doesn't need to be changed.
I apologize for the late replies, didn't realize I had been "off the grid" for so long! You may have found out by this point which fluid to use. But long story short it was a lot of Googling, as correct info is a bit hard to nail down. Ended up on the ZF website and found a lot of great info, including ZF and BMW part numbers I could cross reference and when to change the fluid. They state that their transmissions are filled with semi-synthetic oils designed to be maintenance free, "However, due to the many factors influencing the service life of transmissions in individual operation, ZF recommends an oil change after 150,000 km for its transmissions." So pretty vague service language, probably so they don't step on any vehicle OEM toes who preach lifetime fluids.

Here's the link: TE-ML 11

There's only 2 "officially" approved fluids, which in my case is ZF Lifeguard 8 or BMW 83 22 2 289 720. Which are likely the same fluid and both very expensive. There is only other brands I can think of atm that makes a fluid specifically for the ZF 8 speed, are Ravenol 8HP ATF and Febi 39095. All others are "meets or exceeds" ones and are all low viscosity fuel efficient versions. Liquimoly Top Tec 1800, Valvoline Maxlife ATF, and Amsoil Fuel Efficient ATF versions all seem to be the most popular ones used. Valvoline Maxlife ATF is quite popular on the Ram forums and has been used without issue. I wanted to improve my shifting quality and low temperature performance, so wanted to stick with a full synthetic. I initially bought a 6 pack of Amsoil to use, but after talking with David from HPL about their ATF I went with his. Plus it's the same green as ZF OEM fluid, so no color mixing either. The Amsoil went into the wife's Elantra.
 
Last edited:
How's this working out?
Apologize for the late reply! It's been working great! Hesitation from a stop is still gone and shifting performance is definitely improved, which is really nice. I've only had it down to the single temps so far, but zero hesitation and smooth shifts at that temp as well with minimal warmup time. Haven't really noticed any fuel mileage differences, but it is a heavy vehicle so wasn't really expecting to see any.
 
Just changed the MT fluid in my 03 Civic after 4900 miles. Vehicle has 169.5k miles. Used genuine Honda MTF. My tranny has been going south for a long time now. First noticed input shaft bearing noises around 35000 miles ago (lol!). It's an expensive fix (maybe more than the car is worth) so I've been babying the car for a long while. Trying to source either an emergency back-up beater and/or a guy who can rebuild the tranny for much less than the 2 grand most shops would want for the job. It still drives fine and shifts fine, but the noise the input shaft bearing is making is gradually getting worse. Fortunately I only drive the car about 5k miles a year and my commute is pretty low stress on the vehicle, so we're still in a wait-and-see pattern. Last two MTF changes have been at 5k miles, and I guess I'll continue doing that until I find a spare beater, find a guy who can rebuild it cheap, or it just keeps going!
 
Back
Top