post your latest transmission lubricant change.

midnightlaundry said:
15 quarts of Supertech Mercon V on sale for $5.96 each..
$94.76 shipped to my door..
Click to expand...
I watch Walmart.com and once in a while Valvoline ATF rolls buy much lower than what O’R’s sells it for …

Funny what you see - Dex VI as low as $6.34 and the newer EP is cheaper in quarts LoL

 
Last edited:
Fa24wrx said:
Did this about 5 weeks ago but didn't know about this thread
2022 Subaru wrx 6MT front diff/transmission and rear diff fluids.

Out: OEM fluids 75w90 rear / 75w85 (I think is what they use)
In: OEM 75w90 rear and front

Some gunk on each magnetic drain bolt but the fluids did not smell bad and was pretty clean looking and not dark, as you can see on the rear diff draining.
Next time will prbably put Motul fluids. Planning on 20-25k mile intervals

Replaced all gaskets as well.
View attachment 214653View attachment 214654View attachment 214656View attachment 214655
Click to expand...
I used to use Motul Gear 300 in every Subie I serviced, because at the time it had a very high VI and claimed to be “unshearable”. I would always run 50k OCIs on the Gear 300. It’s also GL-4 and GL-5 rated. I found it’s just fine in the differentials, but not quite as agreeable in the 5MT during Midwest winters.

Since HPL has come on board, I had several lab tests done to ASTM standards (can be found in the gear oils topics) and found that while the Motul is decent, the HPL is arguably better on several fronts, plus the fact that Gear 300 has become scarce and pricey (upwards of $22/qt and not always available), that HPL for the list price plus whatever current discounts are available is a much better overall deal.

I switched my Impreza over not long ago, and even if I keep it another 100k miles I’m not going to worry about the diff lube. I’ve noticed between the Green CC ATF and the HPL Diff Life CC that my car actually takes longer to coast down.

I have a couple questions out there to some people because the change was significant; we’re talking 7-8mph less lost on coast over the same area I measured countless times before. Trying to get a tank or two in before I measure to see if the economy gains are real, but less drag has to equate to better mileage, right?

HPL did a dyno test against on a multimillion-dollar-backed competitor’s gear oil on a chassis dyno, and found that with no other changes whatsoever, HPL picked up 7.8 rwhp over the previous oil. When you’re talking 850+HP, gaining nearly 8hp by changing your gear lube is a huge deal! Temps in the diff dropped by like 30* as well, so the fluid already has a better chance of protecting better and extending component life. Just a thought.
 
SubieRubyRoo said:
I used to use Motul Gear 300 in every Subie I serviced, because at the time it had a very high VI and claimed to be “unshearable”. I would always run 50k OCIs on the Gear 300. It’s also GL-4 and GL-5 rated. I found it’s just fine in the differentials, but not quite as agreeable in the 5MT during Midwest winters.

Since HPL has come on board, I had several lab tests done to ASTM standards (can be found in the gear oils topics) and found that while the Motul is decent, the HPL is arguably better on several fronts, plus the fact that Gear 300 has become scarce and pricey (upwards of $22/qt and not always available), that HPL for the list price plus whatever current discounts are available is a much better overall deal.

I switched my Impreza over not long ago, and even if I keep it another 100k miles I’m not going to worry about the diff lube. I’ve noticed between the Green CC ATF and the HPL Diff Life CC that my car actually takes longer to coast down.

I have a couple questions out there to some people because the change was significant; we’re talking 7-8mph less lost on coast over the same area I measured countless times before. Trying to get a tank or two in before I measure to see if the economy gains are real, but less drag has to equate to better mileage, right?

HPL did a dyno test against on a multimillion-dollar-backed competitor’s gear oil on a chassis dyno, and found that with no other changes whatsoever, HPL picked up 7.8 rwhp over the previous oil. When you’re talking 850+HP, gaining nearly 8hp by changing your gear lube is a huge deal! Temps in the diff dropped by like 30* as well, so the fluid already has a better chance of protecting better and extending component life. Just a thought.
Click to expand...
Motul uses mPAO from a MMDB base stock M - but most don’t have access to what’s in any company’s formula … Maybe one item like I mentioned - far from any trade secrets …
 
SubieRubyRoo said:
I used to use Motul Gear 300 in every Subie I serviced, because at the time it had a very high VI and claimed to be “unshearable”. I would always run 50k OCIs on the Gear 300. It’s also GL-4 and GL-5 rated. I found it’s just fine in the differentials, but not quite as agreeable in the 5MT during Midwest winters.

Since HPL has come on board, I had several lab tests done to ASTM standards (can be found in the gear oils topics) and found that while the Motul is decent, the HPL is arguably better on several fronts, plus the fact that Gear 300 has become scarce and pricey (upwards of $22/qt and not always available), that HPL for the list price plus whatever current discounts are available is a much better overall deal.

I switched my Impreza over not long ago, and even if I keep it another 100k miles I’m not going to worry about the diff lube. I’ve noticed between the Green CC ATF and the HPL Diff Life CC that my car actually takes longer to coast down.

I have a couple questions out there to some people because the change was significant; we’re talking 7-8mph less lost on coast over the same area I measured countless times before. Trying to get a tank or two in before I measure to see if the economy gains are real, but less drag has to equate to better mileage, right?

HPL did a dyno test against on a multimillion-dollar-backed competitor’s gear oil on a chassis dyno, and found that with no other changes whatsoever, HPL picked up 7.8 rwhp over the previous oil. When you’re talking 850+HP, gaining nearly 8hp by changing your gear lube is a huge deal! Temps in the diff dropped by like 30* as well, so the fluid already has a better chance of protecting better and extending component life. Just a thought.
Click to expand...

Do you have a link to the HPL?
 
SubieRubyRoo said:
I used to use Motul Gear 300 in every Subie I serviced, because at the time it had a very high VI and claimed to be “unshearable”. I would always run 50k OCIs on the Gear 300. It’s also GL-4 and GL-5 rated. I found it’s just fine in the differentials, but not quite as agreeable in the 5MT during Midwest winters.

Since HPL has come on board, I had several lab tests done to ASTM standards (can be found in the gear oils topics) and found that while the Motul is decent, the HPL is arguably better on several fronts, plus the fact that Gear 300 has become scarce and pricey (upwards of $22/qt and not always available), that HPL for the list price plus whatever current discounts are available is a much better overall deal.

I switched my Impreza over not long ago, and even if I keep it another 100k miles I’m not going to worry about the diff lube. I’ve noticed between the Green CC ATF and the HPL Diff Life CC that my car actually takes longer to coast down.

I have a couple questions out there to some people because the change was significant; we’re talking 7-8mph less lost on coast over the same area I measured countless times before. Trying to get a tank or two in before I measure to see if the economy gains are real, but less drag has to equate to better mileage, right?

HPL did a dyno test against on a multimillion-dollar-backed competitor’s gear oil on a chassis dyno, and found that with no other changes whatsoever, HPL picked up 7.8 rwhp over the previous oil. When you’re talking 850+HP, gaining nearly 8hp by changing your gear lube is a huge deal! Temps in the diff dropped by like 30* as well, so the fluid already has a better chance of protecting better and extending component life. Just a thought.
Click to expand...
I wanted to try HPL- no dealers here which is odd.
 
dfarr67 said:
I wanted to try HPL- no dealers here which is odd.
Click to expand...
They will ship it to you, but the duty and shipping are a real kick to the stones. If you are making a trip to the US at some point and have a friend that lives there, just get it shipped to their house and bring it back with you. Shipping within the US is very cheap.
 
2007 Volvo V70 @ 144,230 mi.
Drain 3qt. 20 oz.
Fill 3qt. 16 oz. Aisin Type IV ATF + 4 oz. LubeGard (red bottle)

HISTORY:
The OO had a BG flush done at the dealership @ 42K
I did my 1st D&F when I got the vehicle...............@ 70K
2nd @ 71K
3rd @ 76K
4th @ 79K
5th @ 90K
6th @ 102K
7th @ 108K
8th @ 144K

I wanted to get the fluid clean 1+2. I believe my V70 was locally driven in hot Washington, D.C. in its prior life.
D&F's 3-7 was to keep it clean. Perhaps I was chasing perfection.
I went 36K before doing D&F #8 (today's) but was still pleasantly surprised at the reasonable cleanliness of the fluid.
I don't know If I'll own this car long enough to do #9 but I have the fluid in stock.
I'd probably shoot for 175K.
 
2009 Scion xB, 123k miles, drain and refill twice 3000 miles apart with Toyota WS fluid.

The Carfax provided by the seller says the transmission had been flushed by a nationwide oil change place, but the color of the fluid that came out makes me think their wallet was the only thing that actually got flushed.
 
2012 Toyota Highlander 155K miles
Out: Idemitsu ATF ~4.5 qts TLS-LV
In: Idemitsu ATF 2.5 qts TLS-LV +2 qts TLS

Idemitsu ATF TLS is thicker........just wanted to use up the TLS.
 
2005 Tahoe, 6.0/4L60E, 327k in total but probably 190k on trans. Old fluid looked grungy. Shifted OK.

OUT: Mixture of 150k Dex/Merc + TES-295 from a few pan drops
IN: New GM OE 24208576 filter + O'Reilly Dexron VI and added an additional magnet as per the GM TSB

Ran maybe 12-14 quarts through the system by connecting the cooler line to 3/8 clear hose. Stopped exchanging fluid once it looked like new. Shifts excellent now, actually shifts quicker.
 
2016 Nissan NV 2500 cargo van. Bought just this weekend. 215,500 miles.
Tranmission fluid drained. No idea how long it has been in there. Seemed a bit dark but not burnt. Smell was OK.

Drained fluid.
5 qts of Nissan Matic-S back in.

No idea if shifting better. I did not drive much before change. Took a nice long test drive after the change. Transmission shifted fine.
 
Spill & fill on a 2020 Kia CVT we bought new, 44K miles. Still works well, but I will do the filter replacement (60K) as specified in the severe service schedule. Don't like how it blackens the fluid, but apparently to be expected.

20240523_145452.jpg


20240523_151644.jpg
 
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