Post Your Latest (Motorcycle) Oil Change!

I'm glad the 10w30 is working. When M1 10w40 4T goes 5000 miles without losing shift quality and holding grade, it's hard to get eyes for other oil.

Engineers say that oil shear as related to shift quality is pure mechanical hypochondria...
A rider's foot is not a reliable method for oil shear testing... ASTM D-445 is the standard
that objectively measures the rate of oil shear...

A rider is a wild and variable component on a motorcycle... change
the rider and you change all the shift variables...
 
Dang it, I fell under the "shift quality and feel" troll bridge again. I guess someone has to feed correct information versus misinformation to the masses. We've been over this before. Millions upon millions of left feet shifting has proven when shift feel falls off, fresh oil meets and exceeds shifting expectations.

Falls in line exactly with what you are saying. Oil shear does occur and can be measured per ASTM D-445 and a change would be noticed individually by a rider who knows what shifting felt like with fresh oil and what he/she feels when oil has sheared to the point it becomes noticeable.

I gather it's incorrect to say that fresh oil is noted to provide a smoother engine feel and quieter engine vs sheared oil as well? Also, would be correct by your argument that fresh tranny fluid in a car would see no difference to what the driver feels vs older, worn fluid.

By your measure, the feel of an individual bike to its rider should not change from a VOA that starts at XX on the viscosity chart and the same oil after 5,000 miles in a shared sump that has dropped a grade or more in viscosity. The rider is the only variable, is that what you are saying, again?
 
Oil shear does occur and can be measured per ASTM D-445 and a change would be noticed individually by a rider who knows what shifting felt like with fresh oil and what he/she feels when oil has sheared to the point it becomes noticeable.

True... oil shear is real and is measured per ASTM D-445 but accordingly to the engineers oil shear measured by your uncalibrated foot is by guess and by golly... pick 50 riders to judge oil shear on your bike and maybe get 50 odd feelings... give 50 riders the standard ASTM D-445 and you should have 50 out of 50 agree on the correct oil shear...

My new FZ8 customer though he was experiencing notchy shifting on
factory fill Yama Lube after switching from 40 to 30... like you he
wasn't sure if the oil was the problem... So we called Yamaha customer
relations and got an official technician on the line and asked if
there was a difference in shifting quality with respect to oil
grade??? the response was a reassuring "no" an owner will not
experience "poor shifting" between the viscosity grades...
 
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I'm not saying I ride somebody else's bike one time, when I ride my bike I know it happens over time. No one has put the spin on it you are by qualifying it with the 50 riders riding the same single bike one time. Those 50 riders haven't ridden the bike for thousands of miles to go through the progression of degradation. Of course they won't feel it. Geesh...

Your customer experienced a different feel with dropping down a viscosity range and you talked him out of it 12-14 years ago. Doesn't work like for most folks that ride bikes and know what they have experienced.

The FZ8 was last sold new in the USA in 2013. I trust a Yamaha engineer discussing a difference a customer felt in their product as much as the validity of using VOA's from a decade or more ago in current discussion.

BTW, if your customer rode in temps above 90 deg F, that same Yamaha engineer should have been aware 10w30 was not a recommended oil. Curious if your customer ran the recommended 6,000 mile OCI or even close to that.
 
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2016 Harley Davidson Ultra Limited FLHTK 22,586 miles
OCI: 1849 miles/one year

OUT: Bel-Ray Semi-Synthetic 20W-50 3qt. 10oz.
OUT OIL FILTER: Drag Specialty
OUT: Bel-Ray Primary Chaincase Lubricant

IN: Bel-Ray Semi-Synthetic 20W-50 3qt. 10oz.
IN OIL FILTER: Harley Davidson, Black
IN: Bel-Ray Primary Chaincase Lubricant

Also replaced 7 year old DEKA Battery with a Twin Power AGM from my indy Dealership.

ZL6qVBe.jpg
7 years on a Harley battery is fantastic! I got 7 years only one time before moving to the Beach, I think the heat now gets it as 4-5 years is the norm. I changed to Bel-Ray V-Twin Mineral oil in my EVO about 5+ years ago and now use the Semi-Synthetic in the newer 2023 M8 Street Glide, Bel-Ray primary and trans fluid in all my bikes. IMO, Bel-Ray offers the lowest top end noise in both old and new Harley and the Trans fluid is special as it shifts like butter and little to no 1st gear"clunk" and neutral is easy to find with the Bel-Ray!
Bel-Ray is the best fluids I have ever used in a Harley.
 
Curious if your customer ran the recommended 6,000 mile OCI or even close to that.

My FZ8 customer Dillion poor shifting was clutch drag... he reports
smooth as butter shifts on Mobil 1 5W30 API SN at 4K miles...

Here are the steps how to check and eliminate unwanted clutch drag...

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a steady idle at 212ºF (operating temp)...

3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear...

4 Continue holding in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop or not...
if it continues spinning that's unwanted drag... adjust...

To adjust a cable equipped bike turn the small knob clock wise (out)
1/4 turn and test for clutch drag... if your bike is equipped with
hydraulics bleed system for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to coast to a stop when the engine
is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...
 
I absolutely agree a mal-adjusted clutch can give issues.

Riddle me this based on that....

With his new bike at least 12 years ago, it was stated in a post above the Yamaha engineer said to you and your customer there would be no difference in "feel" based on the oil he ran. How did the w40 magically mask the clutch drag and after he changed to the w30 it become an issue enough to call a Yamaha engineer (who said performance won't be affected by the oil), as you are now saying it was clutch drag. Seems w40 or w30 would perform the same if it was clutch drag.

Anyhow most folks know where they stand on this, let's get back to making this about the latest oil change not the latest regurgitation of the same information.
 
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Suzuki GSX1300RRQ

Suzuki 16510-07J00 Filter
4qts Amsoil 10W-40 Metric Motorcycle Oil

After the drain, I pour just a tad off of the top of one quart to flush the crankcase/gearbox and the remaining almost 4 quarts fills it right to the center of the sight glass on the rear stand. Slightly above center flat on the ground. What are y'alls opinion on a superior oil filter to the Suzuki OEM?
 
Suzuki GSX1300RRQ

Suzuki 16510-07J00 Filter
4qts Amsoil 10W-40 Metric Motorcycle Oil

After the drain, I pour just a tad off of the top of one quart to flush the crankcase/gearbox and the remaining almost 4 quarts fills it right to the center of the sight glass on the rear stand. Slightly above center flat on the ground. What are y'alls opinion on a superior oil filter to the Suzuki OEM?

I've been using the OEM Suzuki filter, or the Hiflo filtro filter on my big bore stroker 1st gen Hayabusa for 23 years. And for a couple years on my stock 3rd gen Hayabusa. It's a good filter. I'm not sure what would need improving.
 
I've been using the OEM Suzuki filter, or the Hiflo filtro filter on my big bore stroker 1st gen Hayabusa for 23 years. And for a couple years on my stock 3rd gen Hayabusa. It's a good filter. I'm not sure what would need improving.
Thanks for the feedback! I certainly don't doubt the quality or performance of the Suzuki filter. I'll look into the Hiflofiltro as well.
 
Anyhow most folks know where they stand on this, let's get back to making this about the latest oil change not the latest regurgitation of the same information.

I agree... if there is one thing a rider has control over is the degree of information...
 
3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear...

4 Continue holding in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop or not...
if it continues spinning that's unwanted drag... adjust...
Some bikes will still spin the rear wheel slightly even when the clutch is adjusted correctly - seen it on a couple of my bikes. Depends on a few factors.
 
Zee, glad you showed up, it's a fact again for millions and millions of riders and bikes that there is a slight clutch drag, especially after sitting a while and it takes a "bump" to loosen things to allow the bike to roll forward or backwards, such as moving it around the garage. If the clutch wasn't adjusted properly, the drag would not go away after a slight bump. This is propaganda that is allowed to continue and continue when it can influence people that are looking for valid information.
 
Zee, glad you showed up, it's a fact again for millions and millions of riders and bikes that there is a slight clutch drag, especially after sitting a while and it takes a "bump" to loosen things to allow the bike to roll forward or backwards, such as moving it around the garage. If the clutch wasn't adjusted properly, the drag would not go away after a slight bump. This is propaganda that is allowed to continue and continue when it can influence people that are looking for valid information.
Yes, there is always a "viscous coupling" going on inside the clutch when it's disengaged. Like said, I've seen it with a few bikes on a rear stand with the engine running, even with a hydraulic clutch pulled fully to disengage the clutch. There;'s no "adjustment" on a hydraulic clutch. It only disengages the clutch so far when the lever it fully pulled based on the design of the clutch and hydraulic system.

On a side note, pretty much every bike I've owned or ridden would shift better and smoother (meaning less "notchy" feeling) when the oil is still pretty cold and thicker than it is when at full operating temperature. So one may conclude that thicker oil (ie, that includes less sheared down oil) results in smoother shifting. At least that's what I've noticed.
 
Yes, there is always a "viscous coupling" going on inside the clutch when it's disengaged. Like said, I've seen it with a few bikes on a rear stand with the engine running, even with a hydraulic clutch pulled fully to disengage the clutch. There;'s no "adjustment" on a hydraulic clutch. It only disengages the clutch so far when the lever it fully pulled based on the design of the clutch and hydraulic system.

On a side note, pretty much every bike I've owned or ridden would shift better and smoother (meaning less "notchy" feeling) when the oil is still pretty cold and thicker than it is when at full operating temperature. So one may conclude that thicker oil (ie, that includes less sheared down oil) results in smoother shifting. At least that's what I've noticed.

I've noticed the same on every bike I've ever owned. That's one reason all of our Sportbikes run 15w50. It maintains slick shifting better when running the bikes hard at higher oil and ambient temps.
 
I've noticed the same on every bike I've ever owned. That's one reason all of our Sportbikes run 15w50. It maintains slick shifting better when running the bikes hard at higher oil and ambient temps.
Yep, thicker oil means more film thickness between moving parts even in a transmission, and therefore less friction between them.
 
Viscosity Trends
by Ryan Stark Blackstone Labs

April of 2017 will mark my 20th year here at Blackstone and in that
time a lot of changes have taken place. I’m a big fan of change
myself. Long ago I got some advice from my Uncle Dan who said, “The
only thing that’s constant in life is change.” I decided that his
words were the truth, and it seems to me like change should be
embraced because there is no stopping it, and also for the most part
change is good. It might not seem good at the outset, but if you give
it some time, things eventually work out. After a bit of reflection on
the changes in the oil industry, I’ve decided that one of the best
ones has been the trend to lower viscosity oils.

The thin oil trend

I started changing my own oil on a regular basis in the early ’90s,
and at that time 10W/30 was the oil of choice in my 1981 Chevy
Citation. I didn’t think that much about it. It said right on the oil
cap use 10W/30, so I bought whatever was on sale and went along fat,
dumb, and happy. At that time 5W/30 oil was starting to be as common
as 10W/30 on the shelves, but I never went with it because it wasn’t
what GM said to use. However, my wife’s first car (1994 Buick Skylark)
recommended 5W/30, so that was a sign that thinner oils were starting
to come into favor. Again, I didn’t think much about it, and basically
just stuck with what was recommended when I changed her oil.

Then, in the early 2000s I noticed that we were starting to see a lot
of samples from Ford V-8 engines that were running 5W/20 oil. This was
a bit of a surprise since that’s pretty thin oil, but it was hard to
argue with the results. Those engines produced some of the best wear
we would see on a regular basis, so it quickly became obvious to me
that this was a change for the better. And if you think about it, it
makes sense.

Wear at start-up

For years, it was taken as fact by a lot of people that most of the
wear in an engine happens at start-up. Now I haven’t done any studies
myself to see if that was true, but that statement didn’t seem out of
line from what I know about engines. So assuming it’s true, why would
just starting an engine cause wear? Well, I believe the answer is the
oil isn’t flowing over all of the parts like it does shortly after
start-up. I do know that engines have virtually no metals parts
touching one another without a thin film of oil providing a
lubrication barrier, at least once oil pressure has been established.
I also know that thin oil pumps easier than thick oil, so it seems
obvious that the quicker you can get the oil to the parts, the less
wear an engine will produce. From then on I was sold on thin oil.

So what’s the problem here? Well, when I first started at Blackstone,
I was told that thick oil is good for the bearings, and I didn’t have
cause to doubt that statement until I saw these Ford V-8s producing
virtually no wear, and I knew some of them were work trucks that were
hauling heavy loads. So could it be that the bearings didn’t need
thick oil to survive? The answer is a resounding yes.

Even for diesels?

That trend toward thinner oil has proven true everywhere except for
diesel engines. For years and years and even today, the oil of choice
in a diesel has been 15W/40. But, if a heavy-duty gas engine can run
light oil, why can’t a diesel? We would occasionally see diesel
samples from Alaska that were running 5W/30 and they would look fine,
so why not use it down here in the lower 48? In colder weather, it was
acceptable for diesel to run thin oil, but that really only matters on
start-up. But the oil doesn’t get thicker as it heats up -- it thins
out. So could it be that thin oil does fine even when it get gets up
to operating temperature? The answer to me was another resounding yes,
and I wondered when the day would come that 15W/40 would no longer be
the manufacturer’s choice for diesel engines. Well, that time has
come!

Today we are starting to see more diesel fleets going to 10W/30, and
I’m here to tell you that this change is good. Not only will the
bearings do just fine, but the engines will start up better
(especially in the cold). And this change might eliminate the need for
plugging your diesel in at night. Now, there will always be some
people who are resistant to change.
In fact there are whole countries
that are. The German vehicle manufacturers have yet to embrace thin
oil, though I think that change will happen some day.

Yes, change is good and I have yet to see a change happen that leaves
hundreds of thousands of vehicles stuck along the side of the road.
The sulfur has been virtually removed from diesel fuel and your old
tractor still runs fine.* Additive levels have been lowered in engine
oil and the old flat-tappet engines still run great. And now thinner
oils are here to stay. I’m excited to see what the changes the next 20
years might bring and I believe that I’ll embrace it, unless it
involves getting rid of oil altogether!
 
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2023 Harley Street Glide...
1st 5,000 mile HD Dealer Service, using my supplied fluids and New Model OEM filter ( Made By MAHLE for HD oil filter ).

(Out and IN)

Bel-Ray V-Twin Semi-Synthetic 20W-50
Bel-Ray V-Twin, Big Twin 85W-140 Transmission Fluid
Bel-Ray V-Twin Primary Fluid.

On any new Harley ( the last 30 years of buying them ) I always allow the dealer do the 1K and 5K so I will 100% not have an issue if I have a warranty claim but I change fluids myself much more often than the book calls for and I trust "ME" to do it correct!

I changed to Bel-Ray exclusively well over 5 years ago for my classic and now my newest Harley! I found all My HD's do best with Bel-Ray mineral or Semi Synthetic oils and V-Twin fluids. The Bel-Ray gives me the least top end noise, little to no 1st gear clunk and very EZ to find neutral...

2X Harley.webp


oil filter.webp


HD filter.webp
 
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