post your latest differential fluid change

[alcyon]

1989 Toyota Soarer GT Twin Turbo L. 101500km. Last diff oil Castrol Mineral 80W-90 changed at 81000km. Current fill Mobilube SHC 75W-90 synthetic. Diff is silent now.

 

[slacktide_bitog]

1998 Subaru Forester (automatic)
Out - I don't know
In - Mobil 1 75w90

 

[IndyFan]

I put on an ARB differential cover to armor up my Jeep a bit. Out came Valvoline synthetic 75w140 (it looked and smelled new, as it only had about 15k miles on it) and in went Mobil 1 75w140.

 

[Pagophilus]

2013 Ssangyong Stavic 2.0 Diesel. Replaced original diff oil at 100K (supposed to be 45K). Supposed to fill with 85W-90, which is hard for me to get. Replaced with Amsoil 80W-90 because I wanted synthetic, and every other brand I could get at that weight is mineral. It has quietened the diff significantly. The car is noticeably quieter to drive. I didn't realise the diff noise had crept up on me, although after the last service I started noticing diff noise on a downhill curve on the way home from work, which has now disappeared due to the change.

 

[jagdriver727]

2002 Honda CR-V 5-speed AWD 170k
Out: Factory fill, I think
In: 1 quart Honda Dual Pump Fluid

 

[MontePrix28]

2008 Mitsubishi Endeavor SE AWD (3.8L)
150,250 miles
Out: Factory Fill (assumption)
In: SuperTech 80W-90 in both front and rear differential.

This vehicle is extremely easy to do fluid maintenance on. All that is need is a 24mm socket & ratchet (transmission drain, front diff drain, rear diff fill and drain) and a 17mm wrench (motor oil drain, front diff fill).

 

[dubber09]

Kia Sportage '14

In: SuperTech 75W-90 Full Syn in both - TX case and rear diff. At 83K km.
Out: Shaeffer's 293 75w-90 (came out quite clean) which was in at 30K km replacing factory fill that came out very dirty.

Will be maintaining service interval at 50K km with cheapest brand name or SuperTech full syn oil.

 

[SoNic67]

2011 Toyota RAV4, V6, 4WD. Today I have drained the front transfer case and rear differential and refilled with synthetic RedLine 75W110. I had bought two bottles, on 24 August, for $17.95 each, now I see they got more expensive. It is listed as GL-5 and contains LSD friction modifiers (but I don't think it matters for my non-LSD usage): 75W110 GL-5 Gear Oil
The OE requirement is 80W90 GL-5.
I used new crush washers (4 of them, from the kit).
I drove around and I am happy with how it sounds.

 

[The Critic]

2020 Ram 1500 5.7 eTorque, 3.21 LSD rear axle.

5,740 miles.

Drained the factory fill and replaced with 2.5 qt of Redline 75W-90.

Factory fill was milky yellow but the drain plug had no debris.

 

[CarbonSteel]

2019 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon Dana 44 M220 Axle:

Out:
Amsoil 75W-140 (20K on axle and 15K on oil)

In:
Amsoil 75W-140

 

[97f150]

2018 Tundra Crewmax 80,000 miles

Both front and rear diffs
Out: factory fill (Toyota flavor 75w85)
In: Mobil 1 75w90

Transfer case
Out: factory fill (Toyota 75w)
In: Ravenol 75w

 

[The Critic]

2020 Ram 1500 5.7 eTorque, 3.21 LSD rear axle.

5,740 miles.

Drained the factory fill and replaced with 2.5 qt of Redline 75W-90.

Factory fill was milky yellow but the drain plug had no debris.

300 miles so far. No chatter issues.

 

[4WD]

2017 Tahoe … FF had lots of metal in front differential and loaded magnets @ 17k … so at 41k decided to do it again along with the 2 speed transfer case.
Out: Delo SynLube XDM 75w90 … magnet full of fines …
In: Delo SynLube XDM 75w90 + 3/8”x1” plastic hose additive
Out: Transmax Dex VI
In: SuperTech Dex VI

 

[ollie]

This is what was. Less than a month after this fluid change I bit the bullet and when whole hog and switched from this stupid 3:23 open diff to a TruTrac 3:73. What an amazing improvement!!!

 

[wpod]

2006 Tacoma 4x4 and 2018 F350 4X4 and 2015 F150 M1 75W- 140 in the rears and Delvac 75W-90 in the fronts.

 

[4WD]

2020 JLU Rubicon early driveline changes at 3k

1st picture is FF out of rear … grey with metal and magnet fully loaded
Front diff was similar, but better … and magnet full … picture not posted (poor quality)
2nd picture is ATF from xfer case … but not sharp enough to show the metal sparkle
(surprised it had no magnet)
New fluids:
Front= Mobil 1 75w90
Xfer= Valvoline ATF+4 synthetic
Rear= Valvoline Synthetic 75w140

 

[Snagglefoot]

Changed out both diffs of a 2011 GMC Yukon with AWD and the 6.2 liter engine. Out: original factory lube with 72,000 miles. In: Amsoil severe gear 75w90. Front 3.0 pints. Rear: 5.5 pints for total 8.5 pints or 4.25 quarts. You’ll have to buy 5 quarts to get the job done. The Amsoil products were $17 per quart U.S. Here are photos of the muck found on the large magnet and the magnetic fill plug, a paper towel with muck on it, the rear cover cleaned with Simple Green, the gears, and the fluid initially draining from the loosened cover. The paper towel only had fine cuttings. There were no chards. The magnet was mounted to the back cover. Interesting how the muck followed the magnetic field. All bolts and the plug came out well after a shot of Liquid Wrench. I recommend using a 1/2 inch drive ratchet wrench, as a smaller drive ratchet wrench doesn’t give enough leverage and feels scary tight. The rear sway bar was in the way of fill hole, so you'll have to use a hose type filler to get access to the hole. The front diff fluid was a bit more gray in color. The fill plug was quite tight and rusted and required a couple doses of liquid wrench. I used a new AC Delco rubber gasket from Rock Auto but the old one might have sufficed.

 

[MaximaGuy]

Over the past 20 yrs have picked RL/Amsoil and stuck with 100K change. No reason to change prior to that interval if towing is excluded.
My MB GLE just received RL x110W after much debate and discussion with their tech team.

 

[viscous]

Changed out both diffs of a 2011 GMC Yukon with AWD and the 6.2 liter engine.

Did you clean the rear gears? If so, how?

All bolts and the plug came out well after a shot of Liquid Wrench. I recommend using a 1/2 inch drive ratchet wrench, as a smaller drive ratchet wrench doesn’t give enough leverage and feels scary tight.

When so tight, easy to cause damage when removing bolts? Necessary to retighten with torque wrench, or just regular wrench?

I used a new AC Delco rubber gasket from Rock Auto but the old one might have sufficed.

Did this come with new bolts? Or reuse old ones? RTV alone sufficient?

 

[Snagglefoot]

Did you clean the rear gears? If so, how?

I cleaned the magnets and the cover only.

When so tight, easy to cause damage when removing bolts? Necessary to retighten with torque wrench, or just regular wrench?

I sprayed the bolts with liquid wrench and slowly used a 1/2 inch drive ratchet wrench to slowly apply torque to the first bolt until it broke free. Once I knew how much torque it would take, the others were quicker. No bolts snapped. I torqued the bolts to 25 ft lbs using a 1/2 “ drive torque wrench with the new gasket.


Did this come with new bolts? Or reuse old ones? RTV alone sufficient? I reused the old bolts. The AC Delco gasket is a rubber compound and does not require RTV.

Hope that helps.