Post Auto-Rx .. ATF Additives: LG / MT-10

[RnR]

Having completed (2)full Auto-RX cycles on my 3.8L engine, I have now moved on to my transmission. 6 oz. has just been added and will be run for the advised 1500 mi. interval as I previously successfully used an additive (Muscle Products' MT-10) which solved an occasional sticky shifting issue somewhere around 40k miles ago.

After these 1500 miles roll by - I will likely get a "power-inlet" type of flush completed at my local independent transmission service facility. What I have read is that this is more thorough than a TransTech service.

I am giving strong consideration to using LubeGard after the flush but wonder what this product may have over and above the MT-10. Obviously, I don't want the shifting issue to reappear after the ARX cleaning - and maybe it won't. But do you guys think that the LubeGard addition is a wiser choice over continuing the MT-10 or even just running straight ATF?

The vehicle currently is at 195k miles with no transmission issues other than that noted above.

Thanks!

 

[Donald]

Where did you read about a "power inlet" type of flush. Please provide a URL.

I think all the flushes are pretty much equal as the ONLY thing the flush machine does is to accept the old fluid and keep adding new fluid to the pain. The trans own pump is the one that is pushing the new fluid through the trans. I cannot see one flush machine that much better than the other. The basic reason for a flush machine is to free up the mechanic to do other things for 20 minutes. The flush machines vary as to how they determine the rate to add new ATF.

You can do as well a job or better than a flush machine. Its called a cooler line flush. Basically you drain and refill the pan (best but not required) pull off one of the cooler lines (maybe add a clear section of hose, and shove the hose into a container with a 2 QT mark. Pun the engine until you have pumped out 2 QTs, Stop the engine and add 2 QTs. Do this until you have gone through the total capacity in your system. Check level and attach the hose you removed.

I would go with syhthetic ATF before I would add regular ATF and an additive.

A Magnefine filter would also help.

 

[AzFireGuy79]

If you are planning on using a synthetic ATF I would not add anything else to the mix, however if you plan on just running some DEX III then I would definately run some Lubegard to add to its chemistry. Lubegard is a very good product, although i dont think it is going to do much in a synthetic ATF. You are on the right track as far as a flush.

 

[RnR]

This is where I found the info on the flush type (my bad - pump not power)....

Pump Inlet Flush

And no... I can't presently afford the synthetics so it would be the bulk ATF the shop already has. I suppose it would be prudent to verify what brand & ratings are of the fluid they are actually using!!

 

[Donald]

OK, I looked at your link to the pump-inlet flush machine. Not sure how many places have one. Some comments:

1) With any flush machine (or a DIY cooler line flush) there is only one pass of the ATF.

2) The pump inlet flush merely supplies ATF directly to the pump rather than to the pan. The thing pushing the ATF through the trans is ALWAYS the trans pump.

3) If you first have the place drain and refill the pan then immediately do the flush (without starting the engine in between) then I cannot see why the pump-inlet flush would be any better.

4) Using 5 QTs extra for the pump-inlet flush seems excessive.

Here is what I would do. Buy synthetic ATF and do a cooler line flush yourself. (Drain & refill the pan first). The places charge over $100 for any kind of flush. You can do it yourself with a 50 cent piece of 3/8" clear hose. Forget the additives. The synthetic ATF will cost you less than a flush, AND the synthetic ATF lasts a lot longer. Amsoil rates their for 50K miles severe and 100K miles normal. I would not go that long with a UOA however.

Go through all gears while you are doing the flush. A few seconds in each.

 

[RnR]

Ok guys, I'll reconsider the synthetic ATF and cooler-line method.

I haven't an indoor environment so I guess I'll have to look at getting down and dirty with the wrenches. I wonder if this would be a great excuse to get a fluid extractor?? I can see the need to still drop the pan for a cleanout but how effective would say, a MityVac 7201, be for this application?

 

[Gary Allan]

You can't really do an exchange with a fluid extractor. There you would have two mixing points, the sump and the converter ..but it's a great way to reduce the mess of a pan drop.


edit note: just be sure you fish the extraction hose in enough and collect the anticipated amount of fluid. My neighbor thought he got all the ATF out of his Cummins pan and dropped the thing with a decent spill. The extraction hose hit a step in the pan and only took out a limited amount of fluid. In hindsight he admitted that the collected amount couldn't possibly be the volume of the pan.

 

[Donald]

Does your pan have a drain plug? If so no need for fluid extractor. Also when was the pan last dropped & filter changed? If not that long ago I would skip dropping the pan if you have a drain plug.

 

[Donald]

While its best to remove the old ATF from the pan before a flush or any kind, you could probably run an extra quart or two more than total capacity and accomplish the same thing. Yes there will be some mixing of old and new in the pan as you add add ATF to the pan when its not empty, but not a whole lot.

 

[RnR]

Originally Posted By: Donald
Does your pan have a drain plug? If so no need for fluid extractor. Also when was the pan last dropped & filter changed? If not that long ago I would skip dropping the pan if you have a drain plug.


While I don't have the car up in the air, I am not seeing one when looking at the pan from either side. And records indicate that the filter and fluid was last changed about 32k miles ago.