Possible oil consumption 2013 Fiat 500

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Before I begin, I will ask that Fiat bashing not exist in this thread. Anyone who is thinking about it needs to be aware that the engines for North American models are made in Dundee Michigan. Other than this possible issue, the car has been flawless. It has 23,xxx miles and is booked for its 24K mile service on Monday.

The car has never shown "full" on the dipstick ever- not even with 30 miles on the factory fill. Using the specified 4 quarts results in the level being right in the middle of the cross marks on the dipstick.

The oil was changed at 5k, 8k, and 16k miles- all with PU and a factory filter. The factory specifies an 8k OCI or when the light comes on. The car is highway driven primarily. The light has never come on.

On this OCI, I noticed the oil level has dropped on the dipstick, to about 20% into the cross hatch marks. I plan to have the dealer (a good one) check for leaks and I will have a used oil analysis done. I can't see any leaking as the car has a full shield under the engine.

Anything else I can do? Should I change brands of oil?
 
Consumption is a common problem in all cars. Some engines just inherently consume oil. It is not a problem. Just check it and top up when needed. That sounds like you were down about .5 quart. Not bad at all.
 
That is nothing to worry about. I have had new cars that would use a qt every 2k from the time they were new. Your slight oil use tells me everything is being well lubed, including the top piston ring. But I would make sure nothing is leaking.
 
If you are truly concerned - take it to the dealer. That is why God invented the warranty.

Keep an eye on Fiat 500 forums and service bulletins to see if others are experiencing this.
 
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Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: bullwinkle
1/5 quart or even 1/2 quart in almost 8,000 miles doesn't sound that bad!
x2. Let us know when it uses a qt in 1k.


Maybe I'm being picky. The car is extremely well cared for. I didn't expect any type of consumption/usage until well into 6 figures on the odometer.

The last car I owned that needed topping up was a 1979 MGB. If a classic British car doesn't leak, it means it is out of oil.
wink.gif
 
Not bad for the mileage.

As the engine "breaks in" I am sure the consumption would go down more.

I am a believer that conventional is the best for an engine to break in and seal the rings in the bores.

I would NEVER break in an engine with AMSOIL Signature Series, Pennzoil Ultra, Mobil 1 0W40, German Castrol, Red Line, or Royal Purple.

It may just be superstition, but I believe that it just slows the sealing process down as they are very advanced lubricants with excellent synthetic base stocks with extreme boundary lubrication and film strength properties.

Good old Pennzoil Conventional on a non-turbo brand new car would probably be great, or Mobil Super 1000.

If your car isn't Turbo'ed, I'd get Pennzoil Conventional in there ASAP and GUN IT up an on ramp a few times.

Make the engine scream into the red line a few times after the oil has at least 1000 miles on it to avoid lifting a ring. I have read that the most risk for lifting a ring is beating on your car right after an oil change.

If you run one OCI of 5,000 miles with Pennzoil Conventional I bet your oil consumption would be almost non-existent.

I just don't see GTL Pennzoil Ultra SN helping your engine "wear in" so to speak. It is probably doing an excellent job of preventing any wear at all. Single digit FE wear on many used oil analysis with that oil.

On my second oil change I used Mobil Super 1000 and a factory oil filter. I red lined it every so often as I was really worried about having oil usage issues. Just pick a long on ramp early on a Sunday morning when nobody is up yet.

And, for a Honda, I have no oil use that I can see and I check my oil in the mornings after all the oil returns to the sump.
 
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^ truth.

With an engine break-in, you never want to drive at a constant speed (e.g. cruise control), but always be varying speeds to let seals and gaskets set. If you were using cruise control in the first few thousand miles of usage, that could be a possible factor for oil consumption.

I would greatly encourage talking to the Chrysler folks next time you're in for service.
 
All engines consume some oil. It gets past the rings where the ring gaps are and down the valve stems. They must have clearance at these places or the rings can break and the valves would stick in the guides. 1/4 qt in 8k is very good.
 
Originally Posted By: Falken
Not bad for the mileage.

As the engine "breaks in" I am sure the consumption would go down more.


Breaks in??? It's almost to 24K mi, how long is this gonna take??? Lot of new cars come with synthetic, and break in isn't a issue...



A half qt in 8K mi is miniscule, dealer will tell you if it isn't using more than a quart per thousand it's fine...
 
I wouldnt worry about that one bit.

Go buy an S2000 or any other high revving Honda engine. Then you'll have some real oil consumption
 
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Keep doing what you're doing - it will be fine. PU is one of the best synthetics on the market. I wouldn't use conventional in that car as I believe it came with FF synthetic.
 
TFB1,

At this mileage he isn't happy with his oil consumption.

If a break in goes bad, it is because microscopic edges on the cross-hatch get rounded rather than slightly worn to a nice fit.

I forgot what this rounding is called, but I am pretty sure it is called glaze.

Anyway, it is bad news, and some engine builders will re-hone the cylinder walls if they glaze rather than break in.

I believe a good run-of-the-mill dino would help ensure a good break in rather than glazed cylinder walls.

And his engine is still extremely new, a good dino run to red line would still help.

Anyway, Red Line (the oil company) believes a high quality synthetic may stunt a good break in, and I believe it is glazed cylinder walls that are created from the lubricant preventing the wear needed to create the ring seal.

Some initial wear is great, then you halt it in it's tracks when everything fits and seals.

Also, I do think there may be a bit less risk using a GRIII hydrocracked dino that are commonly referred to as synthetic. These are probably just as safe as dino for breaking in a brand new car.

But, as I mentioned, AMSOIL Signature Series, Red Line, and Pennzoil Ultra GTL might retard a good break in.

This is only my "belief" as it is still considered voodoo science by many people.

I would just never even dream of trying to break in an engine with AMSOIL Signature Series. Never.
 
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All car companies love to hear that their engines consume 1/4 to 1/2 qt in 8k miles. The only time they are worrying is when more than 1 quart in less than 1k miles.
 
All cars consume some oil; with factory OCI's becoming longer, it's just more noticeable. Add that to the fact that the dipstick under-reports a bit, and it may seem like there's an "issue". There isn't. I don't see what telling the dealer will help? Every single car I've ever owned has consumed at least that much oil. I only know that because I've almost always done longer OCI's.

What to do? Use it as an opportunity to refresh the add pac of the oil, and add 1/3 of a quart at 5,000K. I underfill a bit under the max for just this reason. Honestly, I don't see why folks view this as a problem.
 
+1 JOD

Like I said previously, your consumption is very low.

But, if you are a worrier (like me), the only thing you can do to sleep better is some dino and red line runs if your car isn't turbo'ed.

Then you did all you can pretty much do, and that is the oil usage you are dealt.

Which is very low.
 
Thanks for the info, guys.

This is the non turbo, so it came from the factory with Pennzoil conventional. That oil stayed in the sump until 5k miles. I'm thinking break in was done by then.

I realized today that the 5 and 8k mile changes were with the SM formulation of PU. No consumption. The 16k change was with SN PU. Since I actually changed formulations, I've read some consumption is normal.

I bought more SN PU for Monday's service appointment.

I wonder what the UOA will look like.
 
Originally Posted By: Falken


I am a believer that conventional is the best for an engine to break in and seal the rings in the bores.

I would NEVER break in an engine with AMSOIL Signature Series, Pennzoil Ultra, Mobil 1 0W40, German Castrol, Red Line, or Royal Purple


Many new cars come with synthetics as factory fill these days. I suspect the manufacturers have done some homework on this thought.
 
Heh heh, I just rented one while my van is in for body work, not my fault, thankfully. I'm a traveling paper pusher and dont need any room. It has about 10k miles, too early to tell how well it drives.
 
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